Home › Edible Gardening › Article

How to grow potatoes with hotbed seedling raising and transplanting for high-yield cultivation?

Edible Gardening 0 views
Using the "plastic hotbed seedling raising and transplanting potato high-yield cultivation measures", the yield per plant generally reaches 1.8 kg, with a maximum of 3 kg, and the yield per mu can reach 5000-7000 kg. The specific measures are as follows: 1. Careful selection and treatment of seed potatoes. Select large potatoes with regular shape, free of pests and diseases, and free of frost damage as seed. The seed potatoes are taken out of the cellar on March 10-13, placed on the normal-temperature ground of a greenhouse for 6-9 days in spring, and cut into seed pieces when white dots appear at the buds. Each potato piece weighs about 30 g, and generally 36-40 pieces are cut per kg of seed potatoes.

Using the "plastic hotbed seedling raising and transplanting potato high-yield cultivation measures", the yield per plant generally reaches 1.8 kg, with a maximum of 3 kg, and the yield per mu can reach 5000-7000 kg. The specific measures are as follows:

1. Careful selection and treatment of seed potatoes

Select large potatoes with regular shape, free of pests and diseases, and free of frost damage as seed. The seed potatoes are taken out of the cellar on March 10-13, placed on the normal-temperature ground of a greenhouse for 6-9 days in spring, and cut into seed pieces when white dots appear at the buds. Each potato piece weighs about 30 g, and generally 36-40 pieces are cut per kg of seed potatoes. The potato pieces should be sun-dried for 1-2 days on sunny days from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., then soaked in 2%-3% quicklime water for 5-10 minutes, removed, and placed indoors for sprouting, with a thickness of 3 potato pieces being appropriate. When cutting, remove diseased potatoes with grayish-dark flesh or with yellow powdery rings or gray-black rings. When white small protrusions appear at the buds of the seed potato pieces, put them into the bed for seedling raising.

2. Building the seedling bed

On the day the seed potato pieces are cut, choose a sandy plot that is sheltered from the wind and faces the sun, with high and dry terrain, good drainage, and convenient management. The bed is 80-100 cm wide and 35 cm deep. The length depends on the number of potatoes, and the bed should preferably face southeast. When making the bed, first dig out the 6 cm deep topsoil of the whole bed and place it on one side, then dig out the subsoil to a depth of 30 cm in 1/2 of the bed length, place the soil on the north side of the bed to block wind and increase temperature, and dig up and level the subsoil in the remaining 1/2 of the bed length within the bed, then return the topsoil to the bed. Sun-dry the bed for 1-2 days. Then use wooden strips or bamboo pieces to set up an arch frame on the bed, 30-36 cm high, and cover it with plastic film to continue raising the temperature.

3. Seedling raising and sprouting

Spread fine river sand 2-3 cm thick in the bed. If moisture is insufficient, spray sun-warmed water or warm water. Then place the seed potato pieces with the buds facing up. It is best to place them in a single layer. If there are many seed potato pieces, they can be arranged in a "pin" shape, that is, placed in two layers, with the upper layer of potato pieces placed between the rows of the lower layer. Then cover the potato pieces with fine river sand 6-8 cm thick, seal with plastic film, and press the edges firmly all around; it is best to cover the plastic film with straw curtains or sacks to keep warm and prevent freezing. On sunny days, uncover the covering from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. to let in light and increase temperature. If the moisture in the bed is low, uncover the film at noon to supply warm water. The suitable temperature for the seedling bed is 14-18°C. The maximum must not exceed 25°C, and if it exceeds 30°C, ventilation is needed to cool it down. After 20-25 days, uncover the film to check the sprouting of the potato pieces. If the sprouts are 35-40 mm long and cracks appear on the bed surface, and a green point is seen at the top bud between the cracks, uncover the film to lower the temperature and harden the seedlings. At this time, carry out field preparation. If the weather is still relatively cold, uncover during the day and cover at night. If the noon temperature reaches 14-18°C, there is no need to protect against cold at night; if there is light frost, only press down the plastic film to prevent late frost. After 5-7 days, they can be transplanted to the field.

4. Land preparation and transplanting

The transplanting plot should be finely prepared, and 60 cm wide ridges should be made. For basal fertilizer, 3000 kg should be mixed with 1/3 well-decomposed chicken manure and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which has an obvious yield-increasing effect, can prevent excessive vegetative growth of potatoes, and prolong the maturity period. The best transplanting time is within 10-15 days after Qingming Festival, from 7-10 a.m. and 2-6 p.m. When the potato sprouts are 3-4 cm long, dig holes and transplant, with a plant spacing of 40-50 cm. First apply 30-50 g of diammonium phosphate in the holes, cover with soil to cover the fertilizer, then place the potato pieces with the sprout tips facing up, and cover with 6 cm of soil. When taking sprouted pieces from the seedling bed, use both hands inserted under the potato piece and pull upward with force, so as not to damage roots or sprouts and to make it easier to select qualified sprouted pieces for transplanting.

5. Field management

When the potato plants are 20 cm tall, shallowly hoe the sides of the ridges once, then lightly hoe the furrows once, and then plow once. However, hoeing and plowing should not be too deep, and do not break or injure the stems and leaves or bury them with soil. In management, topdress according to the seedlings; farmyard manure should be applied early, and chemical fertilizer should be applied at the right time. Farmyard manure is mainly well-fermented human excrement and urine, and the effect is best when applied before flower bud formation. When the first inflorescence shows flowers and the leaves turn pale, spray 0.3%-0.5% urea on the back of the leaves; after 2-3 days, dig holes between plants along the ridge sides and apply ammonium bicarbonate as topdressing. In mid-May, use 500-times dichlorvos solution to spray the roots to control cutworms; in mid-to-late June, alternately spray 500-times dichlorvos solution and 1000-times dimethoate solution to control ladybird beetles. Spraying on sunny evenings gives the best effect. In late July and early August, when the stems and leaves turn from green to yellow, harvest promptly.

Related Articles