How to prune Schisandra chinensis? Detailed pruning methods and techniques
If you want stable and high yields from cultivated Schisandra chinensis, pruning is the key. The author has been engaged in artificial cultivation of Schisandra chinensis since 1997, and has summarized pruning methods in practice. They are written out here for fellow farmers' reference.
1. Row direction The best row direction for Schisandra chinensis cultivation is a north-south orientation, which gives good light exposure and good ventilation, laying the foundation for stable and high yields.
2. Trunk determination In the summer of the year of transplanting, Schisandra chinensis seedlings grow rather vigorously. For each plant, select and keep 3-4 strong lateral vine branches and train them onto the poles. One seedling gets two poles, and each pole carries two main vines. Cut off the main stem of the original seedling. When each main vine branch grows to 50 cm long, pinch off the growing tip to determine the trunk, prompting the buds below the cut to grow young branches (that is, short fruiting branches, also called secondary shoots). When the young branches grow to 30 cm long, select one strong branch and do not pinch its tip, using it as an extended main vine branch; pinch the tips of the remaining secondary shoots at 20 cm. In that year, only pinch the tips of the secondary shoots; do not pinch the tip of the extended branch until the Beginning of Autumn.
3. Trellising Liaowuwei is a monoecious plant, and the number of female flowers is the key to yield. In cultivation management, pruning improves ventilation and light penetration on the trellis surface, which can increase the photosynthetic efficiency of leaves, increase the number of female flowers, and ensure stable and high yields. Pruning builds a good framework for stable and high yields. Before the sap flows in early spring, cut back each extended main vine branch from the previous year to 30 cm long, and shorten each secondary shoot to 20 cm. Even if there are no secondary shoots, cut the extended main vine branch at 50 cm from the ground to determine the trunk. When each new secondary shoot emerging below the cut grows to 20 cm long, select and keep one secondary shoot without pinching its tip as the extended branch, and pinch the tips of all the rest at 20 cm, promoting thick and strong main vine branches and plump flower buds on the secondary shoots. When the extended main vine branch grows to 50 cm high (including the original 30 cm), pinch its tip again, and pinch the tips of the remaining secondary shoots again at 30 cm long, so that nutrients are concentrated in the main vine branches and each secondary shoot. This can increase the number of female flowers and make the flower buds fully mature and plump. The third time, around the Beginning of Autumn, pinch every growing tip on sight, prompting the branches to lignify early to prevent frost damage that causes dried-up branches.
4. Cyclic renewal When fruiting heavily, before the sap flows in early spring, shorten all secondary shoots (that is, short fruiting branches) to 10-15 cm. During flowering and fruiting, new short fruiting branches can emerge at the base where they meet the main vine branch. Select and keep strong ones in good positions as next year's fruiting branches, and promptly remove the rest. When pruning the following year, cut off the old fruiting branches and use new fruiting branches for cyclic renewal. After that, this is basically the only pruning method used. In addition, when a main vine branch has climbed past the pole but is not tall enough, the branch will droop down. Promptly cut it off 10 cm from the top of the pole to prevent a "straw hat" effect that is unfavorable for light penetration.
During the vigorous growth period in summer, seedlings that emerge from the ground from underground stems should be promptly removed to prevent them from competing with the mother vine for nutrients. A large number of basal water sprouts will also emerge from the base of the Schisandra chinensis plant, and these should also be removed while small. If there is a gap in seedlings nearby, you may select and keep one strong one and train it onto the trellis.
The main vine branches should not tangle with each other randomly. Secondary shoots should always remain secondary shoots and should not become main vine branches on the trellis. If this happens, correct it promptly.
Schisandra chinensis can be pruned in spring, summer, and autumn, and timely summer pruning is the key to all three seasons. Without summer pruning, not only are stable and high yields out of the question, but you may even see flowers without fruit. If you do not prune in summer, the branches on the trellis surface compete in growth, become messy, tangle with each other, and grow too luxuriantly, which is unfavorable for flowering and pollination, and yields decline year by year.