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When should honeysuckle be newly planted? Autumn and winter are the right time

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Honeysuckle can be planted in two seasons, spring, winter or late autumn, that is, between November and late March of the following year, but late autumn or early winter planting is best. To newly plant honeysuckle, the first step is to choose good land. Honeysuckle is not strict about soil and moisture conditions, and can resist drought, waterlogging and poor soil, but as a highly efficient medicinal plant, and with flower high yield as the management goal, it must be managed intensively. Research shows that honeysuckle likes sunlight and cannot tolerate shade, so sunny sandy loam with relatively deep soil layers, fertile and loose soil, good aeration and drainage, and a slope of 15

Honeysuckle can be planted in two seasons, spring, winter or late autumn, that is, between November and late March of the following year, but late autumn or early winter planting is best. To newly plant honeysuckle, the first step is to choose good land. Honeysuckle is not strict about soil and moisture conditions, and can resist drought, waterlogging and poor soil, but as a highly efficient medicinal plant, and with flower high yield as the management goal, it must be managed intensively. Research shows that honeysuckle likes sunlight and cannot tolerate shade, so sunny sandy loam with relatively deep soil layers, fertile and loose soil, good aeration and drainage, and a slope below 15 degrees should be chosen for planting. If irrigation is convenient and there is a water source, so much the better.

After choosing the land, plow the soil deeper than 30 cm and break up the clods. In our province, the planting density can be 2 m * 2 m or 1.5 m * 2 m, that is, 166 or 220 seedlings per mu. Before winter, dig planting trenches 80 cm wide and 80 cm deep, or dig planting holes 80 cm * 80 cm * 80 cm; keep topsoil and subsoil separate, and build fish-scale pits that are higher outside and lower inside. Fill the bottom of the trench or hole with rice straw, corn stalks or green weeds, apply 4000-5000 kg of compost per mu, 150-300 kg of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer, 3000-5000 kg of stalks or green weeds, or apply 0.2-0.3 kg of rapeseed cake per hole, or 0.15 kg of compound fertilizer, or 15 kg of farmyard manure, and return the topsoil to the hole. Apply the base fertilizer appropriately deep and mix it evenly with the soil, then cover with soil. On sloping land, terraced soil preparation can be carried out with a belt width of 1.5 m.

When planting, first soak the seedlings in clean water for 8-10 hours, then dip the roots in mud slurry before planting. In the mud slurry, it is best to add 500-700 times thiophanate-methyl or chlorothalonil and rooting powder at a concentration of 50 to 100 parts per million (that is, 1 g of rooting powder mixed with 10-20 kg of water) to increase the survival rate of the seedlings after planting. When planting the seedlings, dig planting holes 30 cm * 30 cm * 30 cm, apply 0.5-0.75 kg of rapeseed cake or 0.25-0.5 kg of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer per hole, mix evenly with soil, cover with 2-3 cm of soil on top, then spread out the seedling roots, plant them in the planting holes, tread the soil firmly, and water thoroughly to settle the roots (water even on rainy days). After the seedlings are planted in the planting holes, they should form a small steamed bun shape, and the planting depth of the seedlings should be level with the graft union. To increase the survival rate of the seedlings, before or after planting the seedlings, 2/3 of the leaves must be removed. After they survive, through shaping and pruning, the creeping vines are made into upright dwarf shrubs with single plants. Increasing branching and expanding the crown can greatly increase yield.

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