Detailed Explanation of Key Cultivation and Management Techniques for Bell Peppers

I. Land Preparation and Bed Making

Deeply plow the land about 40 cm. During land preparation, apply over 5000-6000 kg of fully decomposed organic fertilizer per mu. The soil should be level, loose, and finely crumbled, thoroughly mixed with the organic fertilizer. The beds should be straight with level surfaces. In protected cultivation areas, high-bed cultivation produces better results. Mix 500 g of 25% carbendazim + 500 mL of phoxim per mu with 80-100 jin of water and spray evenly for soil disinfection.

Bell peppers have strong growth vigor, so single-row planting is preferred: bed width 50-60 cm, bed spacing 50 cm, bed height 15 cm, plant spacing about 60 cm, and planting density of 1800-2000 plants per mu.

II. Transplanting

At transplanting, the soil should be moist but not sticky. If the soil is too dry, irrigate 3-5 days before transplanting. For winter and early spring transplanting, irrigate early to ensure adequate soil temperature. Dig holes according to plant and row spacing, aligned in both directions, with hole depth equal to or slightly deeper than the seedling plug height. When transplanting, cover with soil level with the seedling plug; do not bury deeply, to prevent damping-off and soil-borne diseases and pests. When laying plastic film, seal the edges firmly with soil. After covering with soil, promptly secure the drip irrigation tube near the seedling roots and water at transplanting.

III. Management

From transplanting until the second layer of flowers blooms, dig holes or open furrows on the outer side of the beds between every two adjacent plants in each row and apply fertilizer once. Note that the depth of holes and furrows should reach 10 cm, and the distance from the plants should reach 15-20 cm. Fertilizer rate: 1000 kg of human manure and urine per mu. During this period, supplement water 1-2 times according to soil conditions, seedling growth, and climate.

From fruit development to harvest of bell peppers, during the fruit enlargement period, apply fertilizer with water approximately every 15 days, using 25 kg of compound fertilizer per mu.

After bell peppers recover from transplanting, carry out one weeding, which should be 10 cm deep. After each watering, cultivate once; each cultivation should be deeper near the roots to promote root growth. Remove weeds in the greenhouse at any time to reduce disease sources.

Install trellises when plants are under 20 cm tall. Place bamboo poles on the outer side of the plants, installing one row of trellis for every 3-5 plants. With too few trellises, plants are prone to lodging. After installing trellises, tie and support with wire every 15-20 cm to keep plant growth orderly.

After bell peppers branch and show buds, remove the lateral branches below the branching point; remove weak, non-fruiting branches on the main stem and small branches between the main branches.

IV. Pest and Disease Control

Adhere to the principle of "prevention first, integrated management." Prevention should begin at the seedling stage to enhance resistance. For example, spray some antiviral disease medications and some strongly systemic insecticides in the seedling greenhouse. Pest and disease control after transplanting is the most critical period. The following is explained by category:

1. Damping-off and seedling blight

Soil-borne diseases that easily occur shortly after transplanting. Pay attention to soil disinfection before transplanting and soil moisture control after transplanting. A common method is to drench roots with 500-700 times diluted solution of Previcur, thiophanate-methyl, or carbendazim about one week after transplanting.

2. Viral diseases

Symptoms manifest in several types including tobacco mosaic virus, potato virus, and fern leaf virus. There are many transmission routes, such as contact transmission, aphid transmission, and high-temperature induction. Control is mainly preventive. One month after transplanting, spray virus A and antiviral agent No. 1 at 600-800 times dilution. Pay attention to controlling aphids. For overwintering crops, use shade nets for cooling.

3. Gray mold

Prone to occur in winter and spring, mainly caused by excessive humidity. Increase ventilation and reduce humidity. Chemical control generally uses metalaxyl at 1000 times, iprodione at 1000 times, or procymidone at 800 times for spraying.

4. Blossom-end rot and sunscald

A physiological disorder that often occurs at the blossom end of green and young fruits. Control methods are to ensure water supply during the fruit enlargement period, avoiding alternating dry and wet conditions. Combine with spraying calcium fertilizer (calcium chloride, Lüwang No. 3) and use shade nets.

5. Phytophthora blight

The main cause is excessive humidity, especially during summers with heavy rainfall. In the early stage, it mainly affects the stem near the base. Pay attention to ventilation and dehumidification, and combine with spraying sandofan, ridomil MZ, Previcur, and cymoxanil.