Detailed Guide to Short-Cutting Propagation of Goji Berry

Using short cuttings to propagate goji berry is better than growing seedlings from seed. It not only preserves the cultivar's characteristics and reduces variation, but also offers advantages such as a high propagation coefficient, simple operation, a high survival rate and fast readiness for transplanting.

1. Seedbed preparation

The nursery site should be a sandy loam with shelter from the wind, full sun and convenient drainage and irrigation. The seedbed should be 1 m wide, with length depending on the terrain and needs. Under the seedbed, spread a 10 cm thick layer of gravel and coarse sand; on top, spread a sifted mixture of loess, burnt soil and fine sand in proportions of 70%, 20% and 10% respectively, 10-15 cm thick, and press it down lightly. The seedbed trenches should connect with one another to facilitate drainage and irrigation.

2. Cutting time

Goji berry can be propagated by cuttings in all four seasons. Spring cuttings are best taken in February to March, summer cuttings in May to June and autumn cuttings in August to September. Spring and summer cuttings are the main ones; the plants can be set out in the field in the autumn of the same year or the spring of the following year, with a high survival rate.

3. Selecting cuttings

For cutting wood, choose vigorous branches that are growing well and free of pests and diseases on 1-2 year old seedling mother plants. Cut them in the morning or on a cloudy day, and protect the branches from direct sun. Align the bases of the branches and wrap them in wet gauze or wet toilet paper to keep them moist, then take them indoors promptly.

4. Treating the cuttings

Cut the harvested semi-lignified green branches into cuttings 15-16 cm long with 4-5 axillary buds. With a sharp knife, cut the base of each cutting into a wedge shape 0.5 cm below a bud node, and cut the top into a flat end 1.5 cm above a node, taking care not to tear the bark or damage the axillary buds. Each cutting should carry 4-5 leaves, and half of each leaf should be cut off to reduce water evaporation. Then separate the cuttings by thickness, tie them into small bundles, and soak the bases in a 500 mg/L aqueous solution of naphthalene acetic acid for 5 seconds, or in a 100 mg/L aqueous solution of ABT No. 1 rooting powder developed by the Chinese Academy of Forestry for 1 hour. Take them out and let them dry slightly, then they can be inserted into the seedbed. Do not leave them sitting too long, or the survival of the cuttings may be affected.

5. Cutting spacing

When inserting the cuttings into the seedbed, first separate them by thickness. For spring cuttings, the plant and row spacing is 10 cm x 15 cm; summer cuttings can be somewhat denser. Before inserting, open shallow furrows in the seedbed first; insert vertically or at an angle, either is fine. Insert to a depth of 6-8 cm, press firmly, then water thoroughly to settle the roots.

6. Seedbed management

After insertion, build a shade frame to block light, with a light transmittance of 30%-40% being suitable. At the same time, strengthen fertilizer and water management to grow strong seedlings. After insertion, spray water once each morning and evening; on cloudy days spray lightly to keep the seedbed moist, and take care to prevent waterlogging. New roots can form 15 days after insertion; after rooting, appropriately control the frequency and amount of spraying to prevent root rot and seedling decline. When the temperature is too high, cover the shade frame with mats to cool it down, add windbreaks around it, and cover the shade frame covering early and uncover it late; on rainy days, clear the trenches promptly to drain water and prevent waterlogging. For spring cuttings, the seedlings can be lifted with soil and set out in the field in the autumn of the same year; summer cuttings must wait until the spring of the following year for field planting.