Detailed Explanation of Key Techniques for Building a Goji Berry Garden-Protecting Fence

Goji berry is a perennial vine-like trailing plant with extremely strong adaptability. It can grow vigorously and flower and fruit normally in fertile soil, poor soil, sandy soil and saline-alkali soil (pH 4-10.5) across regions ranging from high temperatures of 40°C in the south to low temperatures of -43°C in the north. Its fruit is an important traditional Chinese medicinal material. The tender stems, leaves, flowers and fruits (dried for winter use) can be used in congee, soup, tea, wine or eaten dry without any side effects, making it a nourishing tonic suitable for all four seasons. It is of great significance for enhancing human immunity and promoting good health.

In recent years, many farm gardens, courtyards, orchards, fish ponds and livestock and poultry farms have replaced the traditional brick-and-cement walls and reinforced concrete posts with wire mesh by planting goji berry as fencing, saving 70%-80% of the investment. In addition, besides providing year-round food for the family, the fruit can also be sold to increase income, yielding good economic returns. The method for building it within the same year is briefly described below.

1. Bury posts and stretch wire. Along the fence length, bury one miscellaneous wood post 2.2 m long and 10 cm thick every 4 linear meters (in areas lacking wood, two strands of 8# iron wire can be used to replace rebar to make homemade concrete posts 2.2 m long, 10 cm × 10 cm thick, with a wire hook at the top and at 60 cm and 1.2 m down from the top), buried 40 cm deep, tamped solid, maintaining a height of 1.8 m above ground, with post tops level. First stretch a strand of 12# iron wire along the post tops; bury one diagonal guy wire outside each of the four corner posts, tie two whole bricks or large stones to one end, bury 60-80 cm deep, and fix the other end to the top of the corner post, pulled tight; brace one post diagonally on the inner side of each corner. Stretch the top wire tight and fix it to the wire hook at the top of each post, then stretch one wire tight at 60 cm and another at 1.2 m above ground respectively, fixing them with the corresponding wire hooks on the posts.

2. Dig holes and plant seedlings. Along the direction of the posts, dig a hole every 0.5 m, 30 cm deep and 20 cm in diameter. At the bottom of each hole, add one shovel of farmyard manure and a handful of diammonium phosphate or other compound fertilizer, mix evenly with half a hole of soil and tamp firm. Take selected strong one-year-old cuttings, cut the stems back to 5 cm above the root crown, place them in the hole, spread the roots out, add soil and tamp firm. Build a border ridge about 10 cm high around each, water thoroughly, and after the water seeps in, spread a 1 cm thick layer of fine sandy soil.

3. Suitable planting time. It is best to complete this after autumn and before the ground freezes. Alternatively, in autumn, bury the posts and stretch the wire, dig the holes, mix in manure, backfill and water to settle, and then in early spring of the following year when the soil thaws to 20 cm, plant the seedlings promptly. The earlier the spring planting, the better. Another option is to leave the hole positions, plant the seedlings before winter or in early spring, and then dig the holes, bury the posts and stretch the wire afterward.

4. Technical management. Remove sprouts and tie vines. When new shoots emerge and reach 10 cm, select and keep one strong vine and remove all others from the base. When the selected strong vine exceeds 60 cm, tie it to the lowest wire with straw or corn husks. As it grows longer, tie it one by one to the middle wire and then the topmost wire. After reaching the top, let it droop and grow to both sides. During growth, when side vines on the main vine reach 25 cm, pinch off the terminal 5 cm. Remove basal suckers at any time; the earlier and more promptly, the better, to ensure the fence takes shape within the same year.

Fertilizing and watering. From sprouting to the end of June, water once with farmyard manure slurry or apply compound fertilizer in holes at 50-100 g per plant, then spray foliar fertilizer once every half month. Water thoroughly once around May 1, in early September and in early November. From late June to early August, water about once every half month depending on drought conditions; do not water if not dry.

Pest and disease control. Before sprouting, spray 3-5 degree lime sulfur mixture. After sprouting, spray once every half month with 65% zineb or 50% mancozeb at 500 times dilution plus 0.3% urea and 0.5% monopotassium phosphate. If pests are found, spray insecticide promptly.

Fruit harvesting. In our garden we planted Korean goji berry. The new vines produced in spring and summer and the side vines that sprout on them in summer and autumn can all flower and fruit in the same year. The year is roughly divided into two crops: summer fruit from July to August and autumn fruit from August to October. In young plants the two fruiting periods are not obvious. Generally, once the fruit is fully red, it can be picked in stages. After harvesting, the fresh fruit can be sold or dried and stored in bulk @#@136@#@. Over 18 years, it has not only provided good garden protection but also yielded an average economic benefit of more than 10 yuan per linear meter.