What to Do If Runner Beans Do Not Set Pods? Cause Analysis and Solutions

Runner beans often appear on our dining tables. We usually stir-fry them with meat or simply stir-fry them plain, and many adults and children love eating them. In addition, runner beans adapt well to the environment, so many homemakers plant a few in their own small vegetable gardens or on balconies. However, once planted, quite a few problems show up, and the most common one is that runner beans do not set pods, which means the effort was wasted. So today Qinnong Network shares with everyone several fairly simple ways to deal with runner beans not setting pods, hoping it will be useful to you.

Causes of Not Setting Pods

There are many reasons why runner beans do not set pods. For example, if the planting time is wrong, then although the runner beans will grow stems and leaves, it is quite normal for them not to set pods. So runner beans are generally planted around April in spring. Next, if the soil is unsuitable, they also will not set pods. Improper fertilizer use, or temperatures that are too low or too high, as well as water management and other aspects, can all cause runner beans not to set pods. So we will provide different solutions according to different situations.

Solutions for Not Setting Pods

1. Remove Stems and Leaves

During growth, runner beans need sufficient light. However, because the stems and leaves are too lush, the field looks relatively closed and the permeability is extremely poor. Too many nutrients are consumed, but basically all of them are used for excessive vegetative growth of stems and leaves. So when the runner bean seedlings have grown to a certain extent, we should remove the excess leaves. At the same time, remove the overgrown stems and keep the main stem and a small portion of branches. When the runner bean seedlings grow to about 50 cm, remove the tips to let them grow other branches. This reduces unnecessary nutrient consumption and at the same time increases the pod-setting rate.

2. Planting Density

The planting density should not be too low. Generally, we plant at most an average of about 2,000 plants per mu. The best planting spacing is 30 to 40 cm between each plant and 40 to 50 cm between each row. Planting at such a density also makes field management more convenient. In addition, the light transmission and ventilation of runner beans are better, so after runner beans bloom, their fruit retention ability is better, which can reduce pod drop and increase the pod-setting rate.

3. Fertilization Method

The fertilization method is relatively key. If the fertilizer used is incorrect, then runner beans will only grow vines and will not set pods. Generally, during the growth of runner beans, we need to apply fertilizer at least three times. The first time is after planting. To promote seedling growth, when applying farmyard manure, we add a small amount of urea in the middle. The second fertilization is at flowering. We generally use potassium fertilizer and phosphorus fertilizer, which can play a role in protecting flowers. The third fertilization is after the flowers drop and during pod setting. At this time we need to apply boron fertilizer. Boron fertilizer can increase the success rate of pod setting in runner beans. We generally do not apply nitrogen fertilizer. If we must apply it, then only apply a tiny bit, because nitrogen fertilizer has a great impact on pod setting.

4. Build Supports and Trellises

When planting runner beans, be sure to remember to build trellises for them so they grow along the supports. This can both enhance the ventilation of the field and also avoid damage from some pests and diseases. Generally, we build A-shaped supports, then tie ropes on each support. In this way, each runner bean seedling receives relatively even light, pollination is also much better, and it also provides convenience for later harvesting.

5. Water and Temperature Management

About one week before the flowering period of runner beans, we should water them so they have enough water to ensure successful pod setting after flowering. If they are not watered, then the phenomenon everyone talks about will appear: only flowering and no pod setting. At the same time, after pod setting, another watering is needed. If watering is forgotten, it will also lead to pod drop. Of course, if there is usually too much water in the field, the water should also be drained from the field in time, otherwise they will not set pods. Finally, the planting temperature generally cannot be lower than 10°C, and of course cannot be higher than 28°C. So in daily management we need to maintain the field temperature well, and can preserve heat and dissipate heat through artificial methods.