How to grow autumn-winter tomatoes? Detailed explanation of key growing techniques
How to grow autumn-winter tomatoes? For detailed guidance on growing autumn-winter tomatoes, you can refer to the following growing methods: 1. Order seedlings in advance: Based on market sales conditions, autumn-winter tomatoes should be transplanted at the end of June and in early July each year, so seedlings should be raised at the end of May and in early June...
How to grow autumn-winter tomatoes? Please give detailed growing guidanceAutumn-winter tomato growing can refer to the following methods:
1. Order seedlings in advance:
Based on market sales conditions, autumn-winter tomatoes should be transplanted at the end of June and in early July each year, so seedlings should be raised at the end of May and in early June. Therefore, growers are advised to promptly complete the ordering of seedlings.
When ordering seedlings, you must inspect the seedling company and do the "three checks": first, check the technical strength of the seedling company to see whether it is truly professional; second, check the seedling facilities of the seedling company, whether the seedbed, sprinkler irrigation facilities, disease prevention facilities, heating facilities and cooling facilities are complete; third, check the tomato production status in the new variety trial and demonstration greenhouses of the seedling company, and finally decide on the variety to be transplanted and the seedling company.
2. Make deep furrows, wide beds and water-saving irrigation techniques:The commonly used water-saving techniques in autumn-winter tomato production include drip irrigation under film and hidden furrow irrigation. Drip irrigation under film: before transplanting, make ridges with an upper width of 80 cm and a height of more than 30 cm, with the upper width of the furrow between ridges 70 cm. Lay drip irrigation on the ridges, with the drip irrigation branch pipes arranged east-west, the same length as the solar greenhouse, and the capillary tubes arranged north-south (consistent with the planting direction, length 6-8 m). Hidden furrow irrigation under film: after the ridges are made, leave a small furrow of 20-25 cm in the middle of the ridge, with a slope from north to south, and use a water pipe to water and apply fertilizer along the hidden furrow ridge by ridge.
When using drip irrigation under film in greenhouse production, you must change the concept of watering, from the concept of flood irrigation of "no watering unless dry, and if watering then soak thoroughly" to the principle of "just enough is best, frequent light irrigation," which ensures the absorption of water by vegetables without causing the crop roots to be soaked and lack oxygen. Therefore, during the seedling stage of vegetables or in low-temperature seasons, drip once every 3-5 days; during the peak production period of vegetables and in high-temperature seasons, drip once every 1-3 days. Each drip irrigation must be carried out before 10 a.m. every day, and each drip irrigation time should be controlled between 0.5 and one hour. Hidden furrow irrigation under film also follows the principle of frequent light irrigation: during the seedling stage or low-temperature period, irrigate once every 7-10 days; during the peak production period or high-temperature period, irrigate once every 5-7 days.
3. Soil fertilization and soil-testing formula fertilization techniques:At present, most greenhouse construction uses the method of mechanical wall building, which takes a large amount of soil. It can basically be said that the topsoil has all been used for building walls. In addition, vegetable crops have a relatively large demand for nutrients and require a balanced supply of various macro- and micronutrients. Therefore, in greenhouse production, attention must be paid to the application of organic fertilizer and large-particle organic matter. In production, one must not one-sidedly pursue the use of chemical fertilizers, so as to avoid causing secondary salinization of greenhouse soil. Therefore, fertilization must be based on measuring the nutrient status of the greenhouse soil, and a reasonable formula fertilization should be carried out according to the vegetable type, cultivation method and crop fertilizer requirement patterns. Combine organic fertilizer with chemical fertilizer, achieve a balance of the major elements nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the secondary elements calcium and magnesium, and the trace elements zinc, boron, iron and copper, with base application as the main method and topdressing as a supplement. For base fertilizer, use farmyard manure that has been fully decomposed through high-temperature composting.
The method for decomposing organic fertilizer is:For one mu of land, prepare 5-10 cubic meters of livestock manure and 10-20 cubic meters of large-particle organic matter (wheat chaff, rice husks, corn cobs, mushroom substrate, crushed corn stalks, wheat stalks, rice stalks, etc. are all acceptable). From May to July each year, mix the livestock manure and large-particle organic matter evenly in a ratio of 1:2, adjust the moisture content to 65% (when held in the hand, water seeps out between the fingers), then pile it into a heap 1.5 m wide and 1 m high, cover it with 5 cm of thick loess, pat it tightly and firmly, and carry out high-temperature composting. Turn the pile about once every 7 days, and the organic fertilizer can be fully decomposed in 15-21 days. From June to July each year, evenly spread the well-decomposed organic fertilizer into the greenhouse, then deep-plow the greenhouse soil to more than 30 cm, and then make ridges and transplant. Long-term use of well-decomposed organic fertilizer can evenly provide the various nutrients needed by vegetables, reduce the harm of secondary salinization, and in particular make the soil C:N ratio reasonable, increase soil organic matter content, increase soil looseness and air permeability, and facilitate vegetable root development.
4. Selecting strong seedlings and scientific transplanting techniques:
1. Select strong seedlings: when purchasing seedlings, note that according to the vegetable type, variety and seedling age, seedling ordering should be carried out 30-50 days before transplanting, and suitable plug trays should be selected. For solanaceous fruits and cucurbits, use 72-98-cell plug trays; for leafy vegetables, use 128-258-cell plug trays. After the seedlings arrive, carefully inspect seedling quality. The standards for strong seedlings are: leaf color dark green, cotyledons and true leaves broad and thick, petioles relatively thick and short; the length-to-width ratio of cotyledons about 1.5, the ratio of hypocotyl length to thickness about 12, and the ratio of cotyledon spread to hypocotyl height above 1.5; well-developed root system, good root binding, not scattering, roots especially fine roots white and vigorous, and seedlings free from pest and disease damage.
2. Scientific transplanting techniques: when transplanting, open transplanting holes according to plant spacing, as large as possible, pour enough water into the holes, and after the water in the holes has seeped dry, carefully and completely place the watermelon seedlings into the holes, with a depth preferably 1 cm below the bed surface, fix the seedlings with loose fine soil, and after covering the surface of the soil ball with 1 cm of fine dry soil, level it with the bed surface. After surrounding with soil, water thoroughly once again (about 0.5 kg per hole), so that the soil ball is in close contact with the surrounding soil. Then, check one by one whether watering has washed away the soil covering the seedling ball. If it has been washed away, take fine dry soil and cover it again to prevent the substrate from losing water too quickly and damaging the roots. Finally, use 1500-fold solution of Yizailing + 1500-fold solution of Shileshi to pour down along the stem below the cotyledons for root irrigation, to prevent diseases such as damping-off, Rhizoctonia rot, stem base rot and Fusarium wilt.
The transplanting period for autumn-winter vegetables is in early July. Because the outside temperature is relatively high, cooling work must be done well. First, install the greenhouse film before transplanting to provide shade and rain protection, and open all the upper and lower vents; second, before preparing the land and making ridges, be sure to irrigate heavily to create moisture and lower the soil temperature. After the seedlings are transplanted, irrigate with small amounts of water according to soil moisture conditions. When the seedlings reach about 30 cm in height, then control water and deeply dig drainage furrows to facilitate tomato root development. When the first truss of tomatoes is the size of an egg and the fourth truss begins flowering, enter normal water and fertilizer management.
Click to get more tomato growing techniques
Click to get more vegetable growing techniques