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How to cultivate onions for high yields? A detailed explanation of the key planting techniques

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How can onions be cultivated for high yields, and what good methods are there? We also ask experienced readers to share their advice. Zhongdi Web has summarized three onion cultivation methods that can effectively increase onion yields. They are listed in detail below for readers' reference. Method 1: Raise strong seedlings at the right time: the suitable sowing period for onions is around September 20...
How can onions be cultivated for high yields, and what good methods are there? We also ask experienced readers to share their advice.


       Zhongdi Web has summarized three onion cultivation methods that can effectively increase onion yields. They are listed in detail below for readers' reference.

  Method 1: Raise strong seedlings at the right time:
       The suitable sowing period for onions is around September 20. Sowing too early leads to a high bolting rate, while sowing too late makes the plants susceptible to freeze damage. For direct sowing, prepare 300 grams of seed per mu; for raising seedlings, prepare 50 grams of seed per 10 sq m.

       First draw shallow furrows on the prepared seedbed surface, then evenly broadcast the seeds into the furrows. After sowing, cover with 1 cm of soil, firm it by treading, and water. On the fourth day after sowing, water a second time; on the eighth day, when the seedlings emerge on the seedbed surface, water a third time, ensuring three waterings for complete seedling emergence.
        After complete seedling emergence, water lightly once every 7-10 days and pull weeds once. Thin the seedlings properly, with a spacing of 3-4 cm. When mole crickets are present, add an appropriate amount of phorate during watering for control, and also pay attention to controlling gray mold. After the seedlings have grown for 30 days, apply a small amount of urea as a top dressing and spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate.

  Method 2: Choose a good transplanting time for onions:
        The suitable transplanting period for onions is in early November. At transplanting, grade the seedlings first, transplanting the standard large seedlings first and the small seedlings afterward. The transplanting depth should be appropriate. If too deep, the bulbs tend to form a spindle shape and yields are low; if too shallow, the plants tend to lodge. Burying the bulb about 1 cm is ideal.

        Onions should not be grown after onions. Apply 4000 kg of fully decomposed organic fertilizer, 50 kg of diammonium phosphate, and 30 kg of potassium sulfate per mu to the transplanting site. After fertilizing, level and harrow the soil finely and make flat beds, with the bed width determined by the width of the plastic film. Transplant at a row spacing of 20 cm x 15 cm; generally, about 23,000 plants are transplanted per mu. Water before covering with plastic film, then punch holes in the film 3 cm deep and 1.5 cm in diameter. At transplanting, insert the onion seedlings directly into the holes, press firmly with the hand, and seal the hole openings tightly. If plastic film is not used, or if the soil was not watered before covering with film, water promptly after transplanting and water again after 4-5 days to help the seedlings recover.

  Method 3: Scientific management:
       Water thoroughly once before the soil freezes; in late February of the following year, when the onion seedlings turn green again, water with green-up water; during the bulb swelling stage, increase the frequency of watering, generally once every 6-8 days, keeping the soil alternately dry and moist to facilitate bulb swelling; stop watering 10 days before harvest to aid storage.

        During the green-up stage, apply potassium and nitrogen fertilizers with irrigation to promote early seedling growth; the bulb swelling stage is the key period for top dressing, so apply top dressing once in late April and once in mid-May, applying 15 kg of urea and 20 kg of potassium sulfate per mu each time.

        If sowing in autumn is too early, the seedlings are too large, or the year has a warm winter, onions are prone to vernalization and premature bolting. In such cases, pinch off the flower stalk below the swollen part of the stalk. If onions with double heads are found in the field, one head can be removed to let the other continue growing. During the bulb swelling stage, do not tread the onion plants down, otherwise the normal transport of nutrients will be affected, leading to reduced yields.
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