There's an art to hilling green onions - keep these precautions in mind
What should you pay attention to when hilling green onions? Can any readers help explain? During the cultivation of green onions, proper hilling is very important - it can increase the length of the white stalk, prevent lodging and bending, and at the same time greatly improve the taste and quality of the green onions, raising their value. Hilling is a key measure for softening the leaf sheaths, preventing lodging, and improving the...
What should you pay attention to when hilling green onions? Can any readers help explainDuring the cultivation of green onions, proper hilling is very important - it can increase the length of the white stalk, prevent lodging and bending, and at the same time greatly improve the taste and quality of the green onions, raising their value. Hilling is an important measure for softening the leaf sheaths, preventing lodging, and improving the yield and quality of the white stalk. Cultivation and hilling must be carried out during the white stalk formation stage, otherwise it easily causes rot of the roots and plants. Hilling should be gradually thickened according to the size and age of the seedlings, but if hilling is done improperly, it can cause root burn, bending of the green onions, and other problems.
Therefore, Zhongdiwang has compiled the precautions to note when hilling green onions, listed below for readers' reference.
Point one, timing of hilling green onions:
Hilling can only be carried out when the green onions have grown to 30 cm; it must not be done too early, otherwise it can cause slow growth and bending of the green onions; hilling is best done in the afternoon, because the leaves are tender, otherwise the leaves are easily damaged.
Point two, hilling together with a suitable amount of topdressing:
During the whole growth process of green onions, hilling is generally carried out 3 times. The first is called "small hilling", with the hilling thickness controlled at about 5 cm, carried out after the green onions have grown to 30 cm and the white stalk has formed; you can apply a balanced fertilizer such as a 15-15-15 compound fertilizer at 25 jin together with 150 jin of organic fertilizer, to promote deep root growth and meet the needs of the green onions' early growth.
When the green onions have grown to 40 to 45 cm, a second hilling should be carried out, with the hilling thickness controlled at about 10 cm. For the topdressing at this hilling, nitrogen and potassium fertilizers should be the main choice; you can choose a 15-5-20 high-nitrogen high-potassium type to promote the growth of the pseudostem and leaves, together with 250 jin of soybean meal organic fertilizer. The last hilling is about 20 days before harvest; in order to improve the quality and taste of the white stalk, the hilling thickness should be controlled at about 10 cm, and 50 jin of calcium nitrate can be broadcast at the same time. At this topdressing, do not add any more nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise it easily causes the white stalk of the green onions to become soft and the taste to be poor.
Point three, methods of hilling green onions:
The width of soil taken should not be too wide; take soil from the middle of the rows, and the width of soil taken should not exceed one third of the row spacing, nor should it be too deep, so as to avoid damaging the roots; the hilling should be tamped firm to prevent it being washed away by rain or collapsing when watered; soil that is too dry or too wet is not suitable for hilling; keep the pseudostem of the green onions upright, and do not hill too deep - at most bury up to the leaf sheath, otherwise it easily causes bending of the white stalk.
Point four, choosing the hilling season:
Do not hill in the high-temperature season, otherwise the pseudostem, buried too deep in the soil, easily rots.
The number of hillings should not be too many; frequent hilling not only increases the workload, but also inevitably damages roots and leaves, affecting the growth and accumulation of the green onions. Do not hill too deep at one time, otherwise if the functional leaves themselves are buried, it easily causes the leaves to rot. The thickness of each hilling is 3-4 cm, hilling the soil up to the boundary between the leaf sheath and the leaf blade, that is, burying only the leaf sheath and not the leaf blade.
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