Lotus root cultivation techniques video and image collection
Lotus root belongs to the water lily family. Lotus root is slightly sweet and crisp, and can be eaten raw or cooked; it is one of the common table vegetables. Lotus root is also a plant with considerable medicinal value; its roots, leaves, flowers, stamens and fruits are all treasures, and all can be used as nourishing medicine. Made into powder, lotus root can aid digestion and stop diarrhea, stimulate the appetite and clear heat, nourish and calm the constitution, and prevent internal bleeding; it is a...
Lotus root belongs to the water lily family. Lotus root is slightly sweet and crisp, and can be eaten raw or cooked; it is one of the common table vegetables. Lotus root is also a plant with considerable medicinal value; its roots, leaves, flowers, stamens and fruits are all treasures, and all can be used as nourishing medicine. Made into powder, lotus root can aid digestion and stop diarrhea, stimulate the appetite and clear heat, nourish and calm the constitution, and prevent internal bleeding; it is an excellent liquid food and nourishing delicacy for women, children, the young and the elderly, and those who are weak and often ill. Lotus root originated in India and was later introduced to China; it is currently grown in many places in our country.
Lotus root nutritional composition:
Lotus root has a high vitamin C content (40-50 mg per 100 grams), and also contains polyphenolic compounds and peroxidase, which can sweep the "garbage" in the human body completely clean. Lotus root contains fairly rich high-quality protein (about 2%), and its amino acid composition is close to human requirements, giving it high biological value. In addition, lotus root is also rich in dietary fiber (about 2%), and its calcium and phosphorus contents are also relatively high (calcium 89 mg, phosphorus 285 mg).
Lotus root has a relatively high iron content; eating it often can prevent iron-deficiency anemia. Rich in vitamin C and dietary fiber, it is quite beneficial for weak conditions such as liver disease, constipation and diabetes. The tannic acid it contains has the effect of constricting blood vessels and stopping bleeding, making it extremely suitable for people with blood stasis, vomiting blood, nosebleeds, blood in the urine, blood in the stool, as well as postpartum women and hemophiliacs. It can relieve summer heat and clear heat, and is a good heat-dispelling food.
Differences between deep-water lotus root and shallow-water lotus root:
According to its adaptability to water level, lotus root can be divided into two ecological types: shallow-water lotus root and deep-water lotus root. Shallow-water lotus root is suited to a water level of 10-20 cm, with a maximum water depth tolerance of 30-50 cm. Deep-water lotus root is suited to a water level of 30-50 cm, with a maximum water depth tolerance of 1-1.2 m.
The general principle of water-level management for shallow-water lotus root is: shallow at the front, deep in the middle, shallow at the back. During the sprouting and growing period from planting the lotus root until the standing leaves appear, shallow water should be maintained to raise the soil temperature and promote sprouting. Generally, maintaining a water layer 4-7 cm deep is best; as the standing leaves appear and the lotus root stems and leaves gradually grow vigorously, the water layer should gradually rise to 12-15 cm. When the terminal leaf appears, it indicates that lotus root formation has begun, and the water layer should gradually be lowered to 4-7 cm to promote root formation. The water level of deep-water lotus root is not easy to regulate; the main thing is to prevent waterlogging during the flood season. In particular, after the standing leaves are submerged, emergency drainage should be carried out within 8 hours so that the lotus leaves emerge above the water surface, to prevent them from drowning.
Lotus root seed selection and sprouting:
Select good varieties: Choose shallow-layer lotus root varieties that are uninjured and disease-free, of good varietal character, large in size, with intact growing tips, complete tail shoots, complete terminal buds and lateral buds, and thick, plump root nodes, and that are early-maturing and high-yielding, and try to make them uniform in size.
Treating the seed lotus root: Choose a main lotus root with strong lotus buds, 2-3 nodes and a weight of more than 0.5 kg as the seed lotus root, or choose a large secondary lotus root as the seed lotus root. After the seed lotus root is dug up, plant it as early as possible; the seed rate is 300-400 kg per mu. Before planting, spray the seed lotus root with a 800-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder, pile it and let it stand for 24 hours, and plant it after the liquid has basically dried.
Sprouting: Pile up the seed lotus roots to a height of about 1 m, and cover the surroundings of the pile with dry rice straw. Sprinkle water on the seed lotus roots frequently to maintain a certain temperature and humidity in the pile. When the seed lotus roots have grown terminal buds, choose a sunny morning to plant them.
Timely planting of lotus root:
Plant in early to mid-April; generally, direct-seed in the lotus field at a spacing of 1.3 x 1.7 m between plants and rows, using 150-250 kg of seed per mu. When planting, the lotus root head should face outward, downward, and be slightly tilted, buried 3-4 cm deep in the soil. It can be planted in strips or in ponds. Seed lotus roots are generally required to be dug, selected and planted promptly. After planting, keep a 3-5 cm water layer in the field; after standing leaves appear, gradually deepen the water layer to 20-30 cm; when the back leaves appear, gradually lower the water layer back to 15-20 cm.
Weeding in the lotus field:
The lotus field is dominated by submerged weeds. Before Qingming, apply 80-100 g of 50% prometryn wettable powder per mu with water as a drench for soil sealing treatment, and control the dosage well. In lotus fields dominated by monocotyledonous weeds such as Chinese sprangletop, crabgrass and reed, in late April spray 40-60 ml of 12.5% haloxyfop-ethoxyethyl emulsifiable concentrate with water for chemical control. If weeds remain in the field after chemical weeding, they can be pulled out by hand.
Lotus root field management:
1. Weeding, leaf removal and flower removal: About one month after planting, remove the withered floating leaves as they gradually wither. Before the lotus leaves close the rows, weed together with topdressing; when weeding, walk along both sides of the rolled leaves. When lotus root produces flower buds or blooms, it consumes a large amount of nutrients, but after breaking them off, rainwater can easily run in and cause the lotus root to rot, so the flower stems are often bent but not broken off.
2. Topdressing three times: The first is standing-leaf fertilizer: when 3-5 standing leaves appear in the field, apply 25-30 kg of high-nitrogen-and-phosphorus compound fertilizer per mu; the second is when standing leaves cover the whole field, apply 30-35 kg of high-nitrogen-and-potassium compound fertilizer per mu; the third is root-forming fertilizer: when the terminal leaf appears, apply 15-20 kg of high-potassium compound fertilizer per mu or 10-15 kg of pure potassium fertilizer.
3. Regulating the water level: From planting until before sprouting, irrigate with about 5-10 cm of shallow water to raise the ground temperature and help seedlings emerge; as the standing leaves and branches grow, gradually deepen the water layer to 15-20 cm; during the root-forming period and before harvest, it is advisable to irrigate with shallow water.
4. Straightening the lotus root heads: In June the lotus vines grow rapidly in all directions, and the vines need to be arranged by hand. At noon, dig open the mud and pull up the lotus vines, turn the heads toward empty ground and bury them back into the soil.
Lotus root diseases:
Lotus root brown spot disease
A common disease of the lotus leaf part; light brown lesions form on the leaves, causing localized drying of the diseased leaves. Control: Reasonable close planting to ensure ventilation and light transmission in the lotus field; appropriately increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers to improve plant resistance, and promptly remove diseased plant residues. In the early stage of the disease, spray with a 600-fold dilution of 25% carbendazim, or a 1000-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil.
Lotus root black spot disease
Also called brown streak disease, it occurs only on the leaves; in severe cases the lesions merge and the leaves turn yellow and withered. Control: In winter, thoroughly remove diseased and residual leaves in the field and burn them in a centralized manner. In the early stage of the disease, remove the diseased leaves and spray for control. Commonly use a 1000-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl, or a 600-fold dilution of 65% zineb, or 1:1:160-200 Bordeaux mixture, spraying once every 10-15 days for a total of 2-3 sprays.
Lotus root rot disease
Also called wilt disease, it infects the underground stems and causes rot; in severe cases the whole field turns yellow and withered, as if burned by fire. Control: Implement a 2-3 year crop rotation in seriously diseased fields. Commonly use a 1000-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl or a 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil to spray and fumigate the seed, cover with agricultural film and seal for 24 hours, then dry and plant. Deep-plow the lotus field and apply 150 kg of lime per mu. When the disease occurs, mix 0.5 kg of 75% chlorothalonil with 30 kg of dry soil and spread it into the shallow-water field.
Lotus root streak virus disease
After infection, symptoms can appear on both the lotus leaves and the underground rhizomes; large polygonal to irregular light brown dead spots form on the leaves, and dark brown anthracnose streak spots form on the rhizome epidermis. Control: Choose disease-resistant varieties, promptly control aphids (the virus transmission vector), and in the early stage of the disease spray a 1000-fold dilution of 1.5% plant virus agent emulsifiable concentrate.
Lotus leaf wilt disease
The affected lotus leaves turn scorched yellow and wither, affecting lotus root growth and causing reduced yield. Control: Keep the lotus field clean and prevent oil pollution from contaminating the lotus field. Sewage and soapy water can also cause lotus leaves to wither and die. Lotus root is very sensitive to herbicides, and herbicides must never be applied in the lotus field.
Lotus root pests:
There are aphids, great bagworms, pear green stinging moths and brown stinging moths, which damage the standing leaves and flower buds. Spray with a 800-1000-fold dilution of 90% trichlorfon, or a 2000-fold dilution of 40% dimethoate. Water maggots suck the sap of lotus root roots, stems and leaves, causing lotus leaves to turn yellow; once found, lime can be applied to drive them away and kill them, at 10-15 kg per mu.
Lotus root topdressing:
Lotus root likes fertilizer. Fertilizer is generally mainly base fertilizer, and topdressing accounts for only 30% of the whole growth period; dense planting and early harvest require more fertilizer. After planting the lotus roots, topdress twice. The first time, when 6-7 lotus leaves have grown, apply 1000-1500 kg of manure and urine per 667 sq m. The second time, when root formation begins, apply root-promoting fertilizer, applying 1500-2000 kg of human manure and urine per 667 sq m. Fertilization should be done in clear, windless weather and must not be done under the scorching sun; each fertilization should be applied in the shallow-water field, and after the fertilizer has been absorbed into the soil, irrigate back to the original depth. After topdressing, rinse the lotus leaves clean.
Lotus root harvesting:
Picking lotus leaves
On the morning of the day the lotus root is dug, pick off part of the leaves and sun-dry them as packaging material. Method of picking and sun-drying the leaves: only pinch flat the lotus leaf between the leaf and the stem with your fingers; after picking, fold it outward with the front side facing out, sun-dry for 1 day, then on the second day fold the leaf face inward, then stack them one by one, navel to navel, and dry them; after drying, store them.
Digging lotus root
The supply period of lotus root is very long. For shallow-water upland lotus root, that harvested before the Start of Autumn is tender lotus root; from the Start of Autumn to the End of Heat, sweet lotus root is dug; after Cold Dew the water temperature is too low and digging lotus root is inconvenient. For deep-water lotus fields, a lotus hook is used, and the water can be appropriately drained. When digging lotus root, first hollow out the mud beneath the lotus root body, then slowly drag the whole lotus root out backward.
Lotus root storage:
Lotus root has thin skin and tender flesh, a weak protective layer, and is easily damaged. In addition, pectin substances decompose quickly, and when exposed to air for a slightly longer time, the epidermis easily turns light purple and then turns rust-colored, seriously affecting its commercial and edible value. Therefore, for storage, besides choosing lotus roots that are fully mature, slightly coated with mud, with intact nodes, and free of injury and disease, storage must also maintain high humidity and a temperature of 5-10 degrees C. There are four commonly used storage methods:
(1) Mud burial: After harvesting, bury the lotus root immediately indoors or in the open. When burying indoors, first enclose a burial pit with bricks, slatted crates, wooden boards, etc. Then place one layer of mud and one layer of lotus root, for a total of 5-6 layers, then cover with a layer of fine mud 10 cm thick. The mud used for storage should be fine, soft and slightly moist, not forming a ball when squeezed in the hand. When storing on a concrete floor, first prop up the bottom of the pit 10 cm with wooden boards or bamboo racks to form a raised bottom. Then spread a layer of fine soil 10 cm thick, then place a layer of lotus root, one layer of mud and one layer of lotus root. This not only facilitates the respiration of the lotus root but also prevents invasion by harmful microorganisms. When burying in the open outdoors, choose a high, shady, light-avoiding place, pile the mud and lotus roots in layers into a slope or pagoda shape, cover tightly with mud, and dig drainage ditches around it to prevent water accumulation. On rainy days, cover it promptly to prevent the mud from being washed away. During storage, turn and inspect the pile about once every 20 days, removing any diseased and rotting ones; in this way it can generally be stored for 30 days.
(2) Film tent storage: After the lotus root is dug out, immediately put it into a film tent and seal it tightly. After storage, because of the respiration and transpiration of the lotus root, the carbon dioxide content and air humidity inside the tent increase, so the tent should be opened once every other day for ventilation. In this way, after 50 days, the natural loss is only 2.5%. After more than 76 days, the rot rate increases and the dehydration phenomenon is also more serious, so it is no longer suitable for continued storage.
(3) Simple pile storage: Arrange the lotus roots in sequence indoors or in a shade shed to form a rectangular flat pile about 80 cm high, cover tightly with water grass or clean wet rice straw, and sprinkle water frequently to keep it moist, so as to prevent freezing, heating and shrinkage. This method is limited to short-term storage.
(4) Water storage method: After the lotus root is dug out, wash it briefly and put it into cattail bags; each bag of about 70 kg is placed in relatively low-temperature water more than 1 m deep, so that the bottom of the cattail bag does not touch the soil and the top does not emerge above the water surface, and cover the top with a layer of water grass 6-10 cm thick to prevent direct sunlight. In this way, even if it freezes, only the layer of water grass freezes, and the bag of lotus root will not be frozen, and it can be taken out for sale at any time.
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