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Eight Key Points for Managing Wheat During the Wintering Period
From emergence to wintering, the growth characteristics of winter wheat are growing roots, growing leaves, growing tillers, and completing the vernalization stage, that is, "three growths and one completion," with the growth center being tillering. The central task of field management is, on the basis of preserving seedlings, to promote root growth and increase tillering, so that weak seedlings become strong and strong seedlings grow steadily.
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Want high yields from late-sown wheat? Master these planting techniques
Compensating for late sowing with fertilizer. Compared with wheat sown at the proper time, late-sown wheat consumes relatively less fertilizer, but because the previous crop of late-sown wheat generally uses up a lot of nutrients and the available nutrients in the soil are reduced, and because late sowing means small, weak seedlings in the early stage that are not suited to water and fertilizer management, it is especially important to apply sufficient basal fertilizer and seed fertilizer and to increase the application of quick-acting nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers to promote early seedling growth. Generally, apply more than 3 cubic meters of farmyard manure per mu, 30 kg of ammonium bicarbonate, 30 kg of superphosphate, and 5 kg of urea or diammonium phosphate as seed fertilizer. Organic fertilizer and ammonium bicarbonate should be applied as basal fertilizer by plowing, phosphate fertilizer should be broadcast, and seed fertilizer urea or diammonium phosphate can be mixed with the seed and sown together, but it must be uniform and must not be excessive, so as to avoid burning the roots and rotting the sprouts and reducing the germination rate; it is best to apply the seed fertilizer first and then sow the seed. It should be particularly noted that seed that has been soaked and pre-germinated should not be mixed and sown with seed fertilizer.</p><p></p><p>In addition, appropriately shallow sowing can also reduce the consumption of seed nutrients and ensure early emergence, early tillering, and more roots; the sowing depth should preferably be 3-4 cm, but the seedbed should be firm and the soil moisture sufficient.</p><p>Seizing the time to make up for the lateness</p><p>How to seek “early” within “late” is the key to increasing the yield of late-sown wheat. In production, on the premise of not affecting or barely affecting the yield and variety of the previous crop, the stubble should be cleared early, the land prepared early, and sowing done early as much as possible, using no-till and simple land preparation methods. Land that has been deep-plowed for years in succession need not be deep-plowed again, and low-lying land with excessive moisture can be managed with no-till.</p><p>In order to promote early germination and early emergence of late-sown wheat, seed soaking and pre-germination can be carried out. The method is: place the seed in warm water at about 50°C, soak for 5-10 minutes, remove and pile it up, cover with a wet gunny sack or straw sack, turn it over once after half a day, keep the temperature at about 25°C, sprinkle cool water when it is hot and warm water when it is cool, and after one day and one night the wheat seed will split open and show white. If sowing cannot be finished that day, it must be spread out to dry to avoid the sprout roots of the wheat seed elongating.</p><p>Compensating for late sowing with density</p><p>Late-sown wheat has insufficient accumulated temperature before winter, fewer tillers per plant, and fewer tillers that form ears; therefore, the sowing rate should be appropriately increased, relying on the main stems to form ears to obtain a relatively high yield. The sowing rate per mu should preferably be 200,000-250,000 basic seedlings, and the maximum sowing rate should not exceed 300,000 basic seedlings.</p><p>Because wheat is sown late, its growth period is shortened; in production, weakly spring-type or spring-type varieties should preferably be selected. Such varieties have a fast stage development process, a short vegetative growth period, and high grain-filling intensity, making it easy to achieve the goals of large ears, many grains, heavy grains, early maturity, and high yield. At present, the varieties suitable for late sowing in our province include Yumai 18-99, Yanzhan 4110, Zhengmai 9023, and others.</p><p>Compensating for late sowing with management</p><p>Late-sown wheat consumes little fertilizer and water before winter and in early spring, and basically lacks neither water nor nutrients before green-up and jointing, so topdressing and watering are generally not suitable, lest the soil temperature be lowered and seedling development affected. In February-March of spring, foliar spraying of urea or compound fertilizer can be used to promote seedling growth. For wheat fields with poor land preparation quality, much loose soil and many clods, prone to moisture loss, or with relatively poor soil moisture, compaction can be carried out in winter and during the green-up stage in early spring, followed by shallow hoeing, so as to achieve the effects of lifting moisture, preserving moisture, and increasing temperature. In high-yield wheat fields, no topdressing or watering should be done at the jointing stage, so as to control spring tillers and promote winter tillers to form ears; from mid-February to early March, shallow hoeing should be done to loosen the soil and let air in, increase temperature and preserve moisture, and promote early seedling growth and more roots. However, fertilizer and water must not be applied too early, otherwise it will not only affect root growth but also cause a large amount of spring tillering in the wheat seedlings, lodging from excessive growth due to field closure, slow polarization, and delayed growth period. But for medium- and low-yield wheat fields, small amounts of water and fertilizer management in spring can promote root growth and tillering and increase the population.</p><p>The standing-up and jointing stage is the key period for managing late-sown wheat; fertilizer and water can be applied together, with 7-10 kg of urea per mu, to prevent green-staying and late maturity and to promote the growth of the flag leaf, the leaf below the flag leaf, and the stem nodes, which is very beneficial for increasing the thousand-grain weight.</p>
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How to propagate cut roses? These propagation experiences are worth learning from
Cut roses mainly have three propagation methods: cuttings, grafting, and tissue culture. 1. Cutting propagation. It is mainly used for easy-to-root varieties, such as small-flowered types, which are suitable for cutting propagation. Some large-flowered varieties do not root easily, especially the yellow series and white series, which are difficult to root and are not often used.
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Can dragon fruit be grown directly from seed?
Dragon fruit is a fruit of the subtropical climate. Anyone who has eaten dragon fruit knows that the more common types are white-fleshed and red-fleshed. Red-fleshed dragon fruit is a little more expensive than the white-fleshed kind, but its flavor is a bit better and it tastes sweeter.
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What are the key points for protecting longan from the cold in winter?
1. Cultivate robust autumn shoots. Autumn shoots are the fruiting mother branches of longan for the coming year and are also one of the main branches for longan to overwinter. Whether the autumn shoots are robust affects their ability to withstand cold during overwintering. Therefore, the last autumn shoots of longan are generally best controlled to emerge in mid to late October; before shoot emergence, it is best to
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Key Management Techniques for Apricot Trees After Fruit Harvest
Apricot fruits ripen relatively early, and there is still a considerable period from harvest to dormancy. This period is an important stage for apricot trees to restore tree vigor and accumulate tree nutrients. Carrying out scientific management during this period can reduce the occurrence of pests and diseases, promote reasonable tree growth,
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High-Yield Facility Cultivation Techniques for Moving Pomelo (Citrus maxima) from the South to the North
I. Field Establishment and Orchard Construction The cultivation technique for moving pomelo from the south to the north is carried out by combining open-field management with plastic-film-covered greenhouse management. The entire growth period is divided into open-field cultivation management and protected cultivation management, that is, from early October each year to early May of the following year, local conventional winter-warm
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What are the common methods for removing astringency from persimmons?
For traditionally cultivated persimmons, most cannot complete natural astringency removal on the tree, and must undergo artificial astringency removal treatment after harvest before they can be eaten or processed into dried persimmons. These persimmons that can only be eaten or processed after artificial astringency removal are called astringent persimmons. There is also another type of persimmon that must have
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Introduction and Cultivation Techniques of the New Blackberry Variety 'Bausen'
Bausen is a blackberry variety introduced from the United States. In 2001, the Institute of Botany, Jiangsu Province and Chinese Academy of Sciences introduced it for trial planting, and it showed characteristics such as strong adaptability, early maturity, and good flavor. The introduction and cultivation techniques of Bausen in the Nanjing area are described below. Characteristics and Traits Bausen
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Detailed Explanation of Mango Grafting Propagation and Cultivation Techniques
1. Scion selection: Collect scions from a superior mother tree in a certified mother stock orchard or from an excellent individual mature tree. The mother plant must be of pure variety, high-yielding, consistently productive, of high quality, and free of quarantine pests and diseases. Any nursery with the means should establish a scion orchard dedicated solely to supplying scions for collection. Select branches from the outer canopy that face the sun, are vigorous, plump, have full buds, and are free of pests and diseases - either 1-year-old or 2-year-old branches that have already matured. Generally, for autumn grafting use the current year's spring or summer flush; for spring and summer grafting use last year's autumn flush or the current year's spring flush. Branches that are flowering, fruiting, or have just finished fruiting, as well as weak shaded branches, are not suitable for use as scions. Leaves can be removed 10 to 15 days in advance; after the petioles drop off, soak the collected scions in 1000-times carbendazim for 3 minutes, allow to dry, and graft immediately - this can improve the survival rate. Collected scions must be grafted promptly; if kept for more than 3 days, they must be stored under low temperature and moisture-retaining conditions. If collecting scions from other locations, bundle the scions well, wrap them in damp paper or cloth, and place them in a cardboard box lined with plastic film. During transport, take care to prevent sun exposure and heat buildup or dehydration and shrinkage. <p>1. Scion selection: Collect scions from a superior mother tree in a certified mother stock orchard or from an excellent individual mature tree. The mother plant must be of pure variety, high-yielding, consistently productive, of high quality, and free of quarantine pests and diseases. Any nursery with the means should establish a scion orchard dedicated solely to supplying scions for collection. Select branches from the outer canopy that face the sun, are vigorous, plump, have full buds, and are free of pests and diseases - either 1-year-old or 2-year-old branches that have already matured. Generally, for autumn grafting use the current year's spring or summer flush; for spring and summer grafting use last year's autumn flush or the current year's spring flush. Branches that are flowering, fruiting, or have just finished fruiting, as well as weak shaded branches, are not suitable for use as scions. Leaves can be removed 10 to 15 days in advance; after the petioles drop off, soak the collected scions in 1000-times carbendazim for 3 minutes, allow to dry, and graft immediately - this can improve the survival rate. Collected scions must be grafted promptly; if kept for more than 3 days, they must be stored under low temperature and moisture-retaining conditions. If collecting scions from other locations, bundle the scions well, wrap them in damp paper or cloth, and place them in a cardboard box lined with plastic film. During transport, take care to prevent sun exposure and heat buildup or dehydration and shrinkage.</p><p></p><p>2. Grafting time: When the rootstock has been grown to a diameter of 1 cm (measured 15 cm above ground level), grafting can be carried out. The grafting time can be determined according to climate. When the temperature is below 20 degrees Celsius, the grafting survival rate decreases as the temperature drops. Of the whole year, grafting in March to April is best, followed by August to October. If there is drought, irrigate 1 to 2 days before grafting to improve the grafting survival rate. Grafting is not suitable in hot and rainy weather or in low-temperature overcast and rainy weather.</p><p>3. Grafting methods: Patch budding and cut grafting are mostly used.</p><p>(1) Patch budding method:</p><p>① Select rootstock 0.8 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, open the bud insertion site by using a knife from top to bottom to make two parallel cuts, 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm wide and 3 to 3.5 cm long. Cut the upper end of the incision into a tongue shape, then lift the bark and tear the cortex downward, removing most of the cortex while leaving a small segment.</p><p>② Select 1 plump bud from the middle-upper part of the scion. With the bud as the center, cut a square block 2.5 to 3.0 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide around it, deep to the xylem. Then insert the knife blade flat at the right side of the incision and push to the left; then insert at the left side and push to the right, and remove the bud plate. Alternatively, cut a bud plate 3 to 5 cm long and 1.2 to 1.5 cm wide with xylem, then trim the edges to a width of 0.5 to 0.7 cm, tear off the xylem, and cut it to 2.5 to 3.0 cm.</p><p>③ Place the peeled bud in the center of the incision, insert the lower end into the ventral flap of bark, leave a small gap at the upper end and on both sides with the rootstock incision, press the bud plate tightly, and tie the bud plate with ultra-thin film 0.8 to 1.0 cm wide.</p><p>④ Twenty to 30 days after grafting, once the incision has healed, cut off the part of the rootstock above the bud insertion site. Wait until the grafted bud swells and protrudes before untying.</p><p>(2) Cut grafting method:</p><p>① Select rootstock 0.5 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, cut the rootstock diagonally, then cut a straight flat incision about 2 cm long downward on the higher side, with depth suitable for removing part of the xylem, then cut away 1/2 or 2/3 of the cortex.</p><p>② Cut the base of a scion similar in thickness to the rootstock (containing 1 to 3 buds) into a slanted end, and make a smooth cut from top to bottom on one side of the tip, with the same length as the rootstock, and cut away 2/3 of the cortex.</p><p>③ Insert the scion into the rootstock incision so that the cortices match, tie tightly from bottom to top with ultra-thin film, and seal and wrap the scion well.</p><p>4. Management of grafted seedlings:</p><p>(1) Bud removal: After top cutting and grafting, adventitious buds below the graft union on the rootstock often sprout and must be checked once a week and removed promptly so as not to affect the growth of the grafted bud. Of the buds sprouting from the scion, also keep only 1 and remove the rest.</p><p>(2) Replacement grafting: Three weeks after grafting, check whether the scion has survived. If it has not, carry out replacement grafting promptly.</p><p>(3) Fertilizer and water management: The nursery should be kept constantly moist, neither drought-stressed nor waterlogged. During drought, irrigate promptly. One month after grafting, apply dilute fertilizer water, apply urea solution once every other month, apply fertilizer frequently and thinly, and gradually increase the fertilizer concentration month by month.</p><p>(4) Pest and disease control: During the seedling stage, pests and diseases are prone to occur, especially the mango shoot borer and anthracnose, so attention must be paid to control.</p><p>(5) Shaping: For the main branches that sprout after grafting, after they mature, remove the tip at about 20 cm to promote side branches. When side branches grow to 15 to 20 cm, pinch the tips, and successively promote secondary side branches.</p><p>5. Timing and method of lifting seedlings: Bagged seedlings can leave the nursery in all four seasons, but orchards with inconvenient irrigation should not plant in winter (November to February of the following year). When leaving the nursery, the new shoots must be mature. If they are not mature but must leave the nursery, the new shoots should be cut off. At the same time, shorten or thin out excessive and overly long branches and leaves.</p><p>For bagged seedlings, 10 days before leaving the nursery, dig up the whole bag, cut off roots outside the bag, arrange them in place, and provide shade, taking care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball from breaking apart.</p><p>6. Seedling selection: For productive planting, grafted seedlings are always selected. The basic requirements for purchased or self-propagated grafted seedlings leaving the nursery are:</p><p>① Variety purity greater than or equal to 97%.</p><p>② The graft union is no more than 30 cm above ground; the rootstock union diameter is greater than or equal to 0.8 cm; the scion has produced more than 2 flushes of shoots, each flush with more than 3 complete mature leaves, the scion shoots are greater than or equal to 15 cm long, and the diameter 5 cm from the union is greater than or equal to 0.5 cm.</p><p>③ The union has healed well, with no tumors or tying-band constriction.</p><p>④ Growth vigor is good, leaves are sound, complete, and glossy, with no quarantine pests or diseases such as leaf blight and no wilting. Stems and branches have no bark breakage or cracking.</p><p>⑤ For bagged seedlings, the soil column diameter is greater than or equal to 11 cm, height is greater than or equal to 21 cm, and the root system is complete; if large roots were broken due to movement, the seedling may leave the nursery only after new roots have grown and the leaves have returned to normal.</p><p>⑥ When leaving the nursery, bagged seedlings need to stop being watered; when leaving the nursery, the soil column should be firm and the bag should not rot.</p><p>Before lifting seedlings, plant quarantine certificates should be handled in accordance with the provisions of the national “Plant Quarantine Regulations”, and seedlings with quarantine objects are strictly prohibited from being transferred into protected areas.</p><p>Bagged seedlings should keep the plastic bag and soil column intact, and tender shoots still in the growth stage should be cut off. If the scion has produced more than three flushes of shoots, the upper tender part may be cut off, keeping 2 to 3 mature flushes. During transport, take care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball from breaking apart. Strictly prevent heavy pressure, sun exposure, and rain during transfer, and it is advisable to use a covered truck for transport; after arriving at the destination, unload the seedlings immediately, place them under tree shade or in a shade shed, and plant them as early as possible (or heel them in).</p>
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