1. Scion selection: Collect scions from a superior mother tree in a certified mother stock orchard or from an excellent individual mature tree. The mother plant must be of pure variety, high-yielding, consistently productive, of high quality, and free of quarantine pests and diseases. Any nursery with the means should establish a scion orchard dedicated solely to supplying scions for collection. Select branches from the outer canopy that face the sun, are vigorous, plump, have full buds, and are free of pests and diseases - either 1-year-old or 2-year-old branches that have already matured. Generally, for autumn grafting use the current year's spring or summer flush; for spring and summer grafting use last year's autumn flush or the current year's spring flush. Branches that are flowering, fruiting, or have just finished fruiting, as well as weak shaded branches, are not suitable for use as scions. Leaves can be removed 10 to 15 days in advance; after the petioles drop off, soak the collected scions in 1000-times carbendazim for 3 minutes, allow to dry, and graft immediately - this can improve the survival rate. Collected scions must be grafted promptly; if kept for more than 3 days, they must be stored under low temperature and moisture-retaining conditions. If collecting scions from other locations, bundle the scions well, wrap them in damp paper or cloth, and place them in a cardboard box lined with plastic film. During transport, take care to prevent sun exposure and heat buildup or dehydration and shrinkage.
<p>1. Scion selection: Collect scions from a superior mother tree in a certified mother stock orchard or from an excellent individual mature tree. The mother plant must be of pure variety, high-yielding, consistently productive, of high quality, and free of quarantine pests and diseases. Any nursery with the means should establish a scion orchard dedicated solely to supplying scions for collection. Select branches from the outer canopy that face the sun, are vigorous, plump, have full buds, and are free of pests and diseases - either 1-year-old or 2-year-old branches that have already matured. Generally, for autumn grafting use the current year's spring or summer flush; for spring and summer grafting use last year's autumn flush or the current year's spring flush. Branches that are flowering, fruiting, or have just finished fruiting, as well as weak shaded branches, are not suitable for use as scions. Leaves can be removed 10 to 15 days in advance; after the petioles drop off, soak the collected scions in 1000-times carbendazim for 3 minutes, allow to dry, and graft immediately - this can improve the survival rate. Collected scions must be grafted promptly; if kept for more than 3 days, they must be stored under low temperature and moisture-retaining conditions. If collecting scions from other locations, bundle the scions well, wrap them in damp paper or cloth, and place them in a cardboard box lined with plastic film. During transport, take care to prevent sun exposure and heat buildup or dehydration and shrinkage.</p><p></p><p>2. Grafting time: When the rootstock has been grown to a diameter of 1 cm (measured 15 cm above ground level), grafting can be carried out. The grafting time can be determined according to climate. When the temperature is below 20 degrees Celsius, the grafting survival rate decreases as the temperature drops. Of the whole year, grafting in March to April is best, followed by August to October. If there is drought, irrigate 1 to 2 days before grafting to improve the grafting survival rate. Grafting is not suitable in hot and rainy weather or in low-temperature overcast and rainy weather.</p><p>3. Grafting methods: Patch budding and cut grafting are mostly used.</p><p>(1) Patch budding method:</p><p>① Select rootstock 0.8 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, open the bud insertion site by using a knife from top to bottom to make two parallel cuts, 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm wide and 3 to 3.5 cm long. Cut the upper end of the incision into a tongue shape, then lift the bark and tear the cortex downward, removing most of the cortex while leaving a small segment.</p><p>② Select 1 plump bud from the middle-upper part of the scion. With the bud as the center, cut a square block 2.5 to 3.0 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide around it, deep to the xylem. Then insert the knife blade flat at the right side of the incision and push to the left; then insert at the left side and push to the right, and remove the bud plate. Alternatively, cut a bud plate 3 to 5 cm long and 1.2 to 1.5 cm wide with xylem, then trim the edges to a width of 0.5 to 0.7 cm, tear off the xylem, and cut it to 2.5 to 3.0 cm.</p><p>③ Place the peeled bud in the center of the incision, insert the lower end into the ventral flap of bark, leave a small gap at the upper end and on both sides with the rootstock incision, press the bud plate tightly, and tie the bud plate with ultra-thin film 0.8 to 1.0 cm wide.</p><p>④ Twenty to 30 days after grafting, once the incision has healed, cut off the part of the rootstock above the bud insertion site. Wait until the grafted bud swells and protrudes before untying.</p><p>(2) Cut grafting method:</p><p>① Select rootstock 0.5 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, cut the rootstock diagonally, then cut a straight flat incision about 2 cm long downward on the higher side, with depth suitable for removing part of the xylem, then cut away 1/2 or 2/3 of the cortex.</p><p>② Cut the base of a scion similar in thickness to the rootstock (containing 1 to 3 buds) into a slanted end, and make a smooth cut from top to bottom on one side of the tip, with the same length as the rootstock, and cut away 2/3 of the cortex.</p><p>③ Insert the scion into the rootstock incision so that the cortices match, tie tightly from bottom to top with ultra-thin film, and seal and wrap the scion well.</p><p>4. Management of grafted seedlings:</p><p>(1) Bud removal: After top cutting and grafting, adventitious buds below the graft union on the rootstock often sprout and must be checked once a week and removed promptly so as not to affect the growth of the grafted bud. Of the buds sprouting from the scion, also keep only 1 and remove the rest.</p><p>(2) Replacement grafting: Three weeks after grafting, check whether the scion has survived. If it has not, carry out replacement grafting promptly.</p><p>(3) Fertilizer and water management: The nursery should be kept constantly moist, neither drought-stressed nor waterlogged. During drought, irrigate promptly. One month after grafting, apply dilute fertilizer water, apply urea solution once every other month, apply fertilizer frequently and thinly, and gradually increase the fertilizer concentration month by month.</p><p>(4) Pest and disease control: During the seedling stage, pests and diseases are prone to occur, especially the mango shoot borer and anthracnose, so attention must be paid to control.</p><p>(5) Shaping: For the main branches that sprout after grafting, after they mature, remove the tip at about 20 cm to promote side branches. When side branches grow to 15 to 20 cm, pinch the tips, and successively promote secondary side branches.</p><p>5. Timing and method of lifting seedlings: Bagged seedlings can leave the nursery in all four seasons, but orchards with inconvenient irrigation should not plant in winter (November to February of the following year). When leaving the nursery, the new shoots must be mature. If they are not mature but must leave the nursery, the new shoots should be cut off. At the same time, shorten or thin out excessive and overly long branches and leaves.</p><p>For bagged seedlings, 10 days before leaving the nursery, dig up the whole bag, cut off roots outside the bag, arrange them in place, and provide shade, taking care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball from breaking apart.</p><p>6. Seedling selection: For productive planting, grafted seedlings are always selected. The basic requirements for purchased or self-propagated grafted seedlings leaving the nursery are:</p><p>① Variety purity greater than or equal to 97%.</p><p>② The graft union is no more than 30 cm above ground; the rootstock union diameter is greater than or equal to 0.8 cm; the scion has produced more than 2 flushes of shoots, each flush with more than 3 complete mature leaves, the scion shoots are greater than or equal to 15 cm long, and the diameter 5 cm from the union is greater than or equal to 0.5 cm.</p><p>③ The union has healed well, with no tumors or tying-band constriction.</p><p>④ Growth vigor is good, leaves are sound, complete, and glossy, with no quarantine pests or diseases such as leaf blight and no wilting. Stems and branches have no bark breakage or cracking.</p><p>⑤ For bagged seedlings, the soil column diameter is greater than or equal to 11 cm, height is greater than or equal to 21 cm, and the root system is complete; if large roots were broken due to movement, the seedling may leave the nursery only after new roots have grown and the leaves have returned to normal.</p><p>⑥ When leaving the nursery, bagged seedlings need to stop being watered; when leaving the nursery, the soil column should be firm and the bag should not rot.</p><p>Before lifting seedlings, plant quarantine certificates should be handled in accordance with the provisions of the national “Plant Quarantine Regulations”, and seedlings with quarantine objects are strictly prohibited from being transferred into protected areas.</p><p>Bagged seedlings should keep the plastic bag and soil column intact, and tender shoots still in the growth stage should be cut off. If the scion has produced more than three flushes of shoots, the upper tender part may be cut off, keeping 2 to 3 mature flushes. During transport, take care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball from breaking apart. Strictly prevent heavy pressure, sun exposure, and rain during transfer, and it is advisable to use a covered truck for transport; after arriving at the destination, unload the seedlings immediately, place them under tree shade or in a shade shed, and plant them as early as possible (or heel them in).</p>
1. Scion selection: Collect scions from a good-quality mother tree garden or from superior individual adult mother trees. The mother plant must be of pure variety, high-yielding, stable-yielding, of high quality, and free of quarantine pests and diseases. Where conditions permit, nurseries should all establish a scion collection orchard, dedicated solely to collecting scions. Select branches from the outer canopy facing the sun, growing vigorously, plump, with full buds, free of pests and diseases, and 1-year-old or 2-year-old already matured branches. Generally, for autumn grafting use the current year's spring and summer shoots; for spring and summer grafting use last year's autumn shoots or the current year's spring shoots. Branches that are flowering, fruiting, or have just finished fruiting, as well as shaded weak branches, are not suitable for use as scions. Leaves can be removed 10 to 15 days in advance; after the petioles fall off, soak the collected scions in 1000-fold carbendazim for 3 minutes, dry them, and graft immediately, which can increase the survival rate. Collected scions must be grafted promptly; if more than 3 days, they must be stored at low temperature and kept moist. If collecting scions from other places, bundle the scions well, wrap them in wet paper or wet cloth, and place them in a cardboard box lined with plastic film. During transport, take care to prevent sun exposure and heat buildup or dehydration and shrinkage.
2. Grafting time: When the rootstock has been cultivated to a diameter (at 15 cm above ground level) of 1 cm, grafting can be carried out. The grafting time can be determined according to climate. When the temperature is below 20 degrees Celsius, the grafting survival rate decreases as the temperature drops. During the year, grafting in March to April is best, followed by August to October. If there is drought, irrigate 1 to 2 days before grafting to improve the grafting survival rate. High temperature and rainy weather, or low temperature and overcast rainy weather, are not suitable for grafting.
3. Grafting methods: Patch budding and cut grafting are mostly used.
(1) Patch budding method:
① Select rootstock 0.8 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, open the bud grafting site. Use a knife from top to bottom to make two parallel cuts, 0.8 cm to 1.0 cm wide and 3 to 3.5 cm long. Cut the upper end of the cut into a tongue shape, then pry open the bark and tear the cortex downward, removing most of the cortex and leaving a small section.
② Select 1 plump bud from the middle-upper part of the scion. With the bud as the center, cut a square block 2.5 to 3.0 cm long and 0.5 to 0.7 cm wide around it, deep to the xylem. Then use the knife edge to insert flatly on the right side of the cut and push left; then insert on the left side and push right, and take out the bud plate. Alternatively, cut a bud plate 3 to 5 cm long and 1.2 to 1.5 cm wide with xylem, then cut the edges to a width of 0.5 to 0.7 cm, tear off the xylem, and cut it to 2.5 to 3.0 cm.
③ Place the peeled bud in the center of the grafting site, insert the lower end into the pocket bark, leave a small gap at the upper end and on both sides with the rootstock cut, press the bud plate tightly, and tie the bud plate with ultra-thin film 0.8 to 1.0 cm wide.
④ 20 to 30 days after grafting, when the grafting site has healed, cut off the upper part of the rootstock above the bud grafting site. Wait until the grafted bud swells and protrudes, then untie.
(2) Cut grafting method:
① Select rootstock 0.5 cm or more in diameter. At 30 cm above ground, cut the rootstock diagonally. On the higher side, cut downward a straight flat cut about 2 cm long, with depth suitable for removing part of the xylem, then cut away 1/2 or 2/3 of the cortex.
② Cut the base of a scion similar in thickness to the rootstock (containing 1 to 3 buds) into a slanted cut, and on one side of the tip cut a smooth cut from top to bottom, with length the same as the rootstock, and cut away 2/3 of the cortex.
③ Insert the scion into the rootstock cut so that the cortices match, tie tightly from bottom to top with ultra-thin film, and seal and wrap the scion well.
4. Management of grafted seedlings:
(1) Bud removal: After cutting the top and grafting, adventitious buds below the graft union on the rootstock often sprout. They must be checked once a week and removed promptly so as not to affect the growth of the grafted bud. Of the buds sprouting from the scion, also keep only 1 and remove the rest.
(2) Re-grafting: 3 weeks after grafting, check whether the scion has survived. If not, re-graft promptly.
(3) Fertilizer and water management: The nursery should always remain moist, neither dry nor waterlogged. During drought, irrigate promptly. 1 month after grafting, apply dilute fertilizer water. Apply urea solution once every other month. Apply fertilizer frequently and thinly, gradually increasing the fertilizer concentration month by month.
(4) Pest and disease control: During the seedling stage, pests and diseases are likely to occur, especially the fruit-piercing moth and anthracnose, so attention should be paid to their control.
(5) Shaping: For the main branches that sprout after grafting, after they mature, top them at about 20 cm to promote side branches. When side branches grow to 15 to 20 cm, top them, and successively promote secondary side branches.
5. Time and method for lifting seedlings: Bagged seedlings can leave the nursery in all four seasons, but orchards with inconvenient irrigation should not plant in winter (November to February of the following year). When leaving the nursery, new shoots must be mature. If they are not mature but must leave the nursery, the new shoots should be cut off. At the same time, shorten or thin out excessive and overly long branches and leaves.
For bagged seedlings, 10 days before leaving the nursery, dig up the whole bag, cut off roots outside the bag, place them in the original position, and shade them. Take care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball not loose.
6. Seedling selection: For productive planting, grafted seedlings are always selected. The basic requirements for purchased or self-propagated grafted seedlings leaving the nursery are:
① Variety purity greater than or equal to 97%.
② The grafting site is no more than 30 cm above ground; the rootstock graft union diameter is greater than or equal to 0.8 cm; the scion has produced 2 or more flushes of shoots, each flush with 3 or more complete mature leaves, the shoots produced by the scion are greater than or equal to 15 cm long, and the diameter at 5 cm from the graft union is greater than or equal to 0.5 cm.
③ The graft union heals well, with no tumors or binding tape constriction.
④ Growth vigor is good, leaves are sound, complete, and glossy, with no quarantine pests or diseases such as leaf blight and no wilting. Stems and branches have no broken bark or cracks.
⑤ For bagged seedlings, the soil column diameter is greater than or equal to 11 cm, height greater than or equal to 21 cm, and the root system is complete; if large roots are broken due to movement, the seedling may leave the nursery only after new roots grow and the leaves return to normal.
⑥ When leaving the nursery, bagged seedlings need to stop being watered. When leaving the nursery, the soil column needs to be hardened and the bag not rotten.
Before lifting seedlings, in accordance with the provisions of the national “Plant Quarantine Regulations”, a plant quarantine certificate must be handled. It is strictly forbidden to transfer seedlings with quarantine objects into protected areas.
Bagged seedlings should keep the plastic bag and soil column intact, and cut off young shoots still in the growing period. If the scion has produced more than three flushes of shoots, the upper relatively tender part can be cut off, keeping 2 to 3 mature flushes. During transport, take care to keep the seedling bag intact and the soil ball not loose. During transfer, strictly prevent heavy pressure, sun exposure, and rain. It is advisable to use a covered truck for transport; after arriving at the destination, unload the seedlings immediately, place them under tree shade or in a shade shed, and plant them (or heel them in) as early as possible.