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Detailed Explanation of Peach Bud Grafting Propagation Techniques and Key Operation Points

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Peach is an ornamental flowering plant that can be grown in pots or in courtyards. It has red and white flowers as well as red-and-white variegated flowers, and sometimes red and white peach blossoms open on the same plant, which is captivating. To better preserve these excellent qualities, asexual propagation is mostly used. With summer bud grafting techniques, the grafting survival rate can reach more than 90%. 1. Scion selection: The mother peach tree should be vigorous and free of pests and diseases, with excellent flowers and fruit. Select strong current-year shoots with plump buds as scions. 2. Grafting method: For summer bud grafting, bud plates can be cut,

Peach is an ornamental flowering plant that can be grown in pots or in courtyards. It has red and white flowers as well as red-and-white variegated flowers, and sometimes red and white peach blossoms open on the same plant, which is captivating. To better preserve these excellent qualities, asexual propagation is mostly used. With summer bud grafting techniques, the grafting survival rate can reach more than 90%.

1. Scion selection

The mother peach tree should be vigorous and free of pests and diseases, with excellent flowers and fruit. Select strong current-year shoots with plump buds as scions.

2. Grafting method

For summer bud grafting, bud plates can be cut, or bud plates with a small amount of wood. Peel the bark at the stem of the rootstock, cut the scion from the mother tree by removing the leaf blade and keeping the petiole. At 1 cm below the scion bud, use the tip of a knife to cut upward, 1.5-2 cm long, with the inner side of the bud slightly bearing wood, and the bud positioned in the middle of the graft bud. For the rootstock, select pencil-thick seedlings, with the stem 3-5 cm from the ground, and choose the vertical part on the north side of the trunk. Make the first cut vertically 2 cm with a slight amount of wood, trim off 1/2-2/3 of the peeled bark, insert the graft bud into the rootstock, and align the cambium closely. In particular, pay attention to leaving no gap at the lower part of the rootstock cut, ensuring tight contact. Below the graft bud, wrap plastic tape 2 turns to the left, then 2 turns to the right, tying evenly upward to prevent the bud from drying out and to ensure firm union, leaving the graft bud exposed. Note the bud grafting time; in the south, mid-June to mid-July is best.

3. Post-grafting management

10-15 days after bud grafting, the petiole turns yellow and falls off, which is a sign of survival; if the petiole turns black, it means it did not survive. For surviving seedlings, after new buds grow and healing is complete, remove the plastic tape and cut the rootstock 1 cm above the bud grafting point. After sprouting, remove rootstock sprouts, and combine with fertilization, generally applying compound fertilizer 1-2 times to promote lignification of the new scion shoots and cold resistance. To control aphids, spray dimethoate solution. When leaf curl disease occurs on the leaves, lime sulfur mixture can be used.

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