What are the key points of Nanguo pear cultivation techniques? Explained clearly in one article

Nanguo pear is an extremely excellent variety in the Pyrus ussuriensis system. Its color, aroma, and taste are all excellent, and it is deeply loved by the broad masses of people. It is extremely cold-resistant, high-yielding, and easy to manage. It flowers in 3 years, and in 5 years a single tree can produce up to 20 kg. A 20-year-old high-yielding tree can produce 300-500 kg per tree. Therefore, mastering Nanguo pear cultivation techniques is very crucial. The key points are as follows.

1. Orchard planning

According to differences in terrain, topography, soil, climate, and other conditions, divide the orchard into several production operation areas, with an area of 120-150 mu as appropriate. Configure roads, drainage systems, and irrigation systems, and determine the location and area of the fruit stacking yard, which is conducive to stacking, grading, parking, and loading.

Nanguo pear has a relatively low fruit-setting rate under self-pollination. When establishing the orchard, a certain proportion of pollinating varieties should be configured, such as Pingguo pear, Zaosu pear, Huagai pear, Baixiao pear, etc. The proportion should be 1/8-1/6, and the distance between the main variety and the pollinating varieties should not exceed 50-60 m.

2. Cultivation techniques

For hillside land, land with low soil fertility, and thin soil layers, the plant-row spacing is 3 m x 5 m, and the row direction is parallel to the contour lines; for flat land, the plant-row spacing is 4 m x 5 m, and the row direction should be north-south. Before planting fruit trees, dig holes 0.8-1 m long, 0.8-1 m wide, and 0.8-1 m deep; or circular planting holes with a diameter of 0.8-1 m. When digging planting holes, keep the opening and the bottom of the planting hole equal in size, and avoid digging pot-bottom-shaped pits. After the holes are dug, backfill the topsoil of the planting holes and the surrounding topsoil into the planting holes. At the same time, apply 15-20 kg of decomposed farmyard manure per hole, mix the farmyard manure thoroughly with the backfilled soil, and then fill it into the planting holes.

When planting, select high-quality strong seedlings that are free of pests and diseases, freeze damage, and mechanical injury. The day before planting, soak the selected seedlings in water for about 24 hours so that they fully absorb water, which is conducive to improving the survival rate.

When planting the seedlings, the root system should be spread out, the seedlings should be upright, and they should form straight rows. As for planting depth, the root crown junction should be level with the ground. Afterward, water promptly, and water thoroughly. Water a second time after 3-4 days, and water a third time after another 1 week. After each watering, once the water has seeped down, promptly seal and earth up mounds to preserve soil moisture.

In order to improve the survival rate, increase soil temperature, and increase growth in the planting year, plastic film mulching should be used after planting.

3. Training and pruning

Trunk determination After planting, the seedlings should be trunk-determined promptly, with a height of 70-100 cm (for mountain land and poor land, trunk determination should be lower). Leave 8-10 plump buds below the pruning cut, and pay attention to the orientation of the buds left below the cut, because the first and second buds below the cut mostly sprout into two upright competitive branches, while branches sprouting from the third bud and below have wider angles and can be trained into main branches. Therefore, leave the third and fourth buds below the cut on the windward side, using wind force to naturally increase the angle of the branches formed by these two buds. When determining the trunk, if the seedlings are strong, use the lateral buds or lateral branches in the middle and upper parts of the seedlings as the training zone, because the base angle formed by branches sprouting from lateral buds is wider, laying a good foundation for opening the angle of main branches later.

Selection and retention of main branches The three basal main branches can be selected within one or two years and should be adjacent or closely positioned. During winter pruning in the first year, select the upright and strong branch at the top as the central leader branch, cut it back leaving 50-60 cm, and at the same time, below the central leader branch, select branches in three directions with relatively suitable angles as the first tier of main branches and cut them back leaving 40-50 cm. During winter pruning in the second year, cut back the extension branch of the central leader trunk leaving 50-60 cm. Cut back the extension branches of the main branches leaving 50 cm, and the second and third lateral buds below the cut should be left in the same direction so as to select and retain the first lateral branch. Other branches are generally not thinned or cut. During winter pruning in the third year, cut back the extension branch of the central leader trunk leaving 50 cm, cut back lateral branches leaving an appropriate length, and appropriately thin out or heavily cut back branches that are too dense or too vigorous. Other branches are generally not thinned or cut. From the fourth to the fifth year of winter pruning, pruning of the extension branch of the central leader trunk and the main and lateral branches is basically the same as the previous year, and attention should be paid to selecting and retaining the third tier of main branches. Generally, after 5-6 years, the training process is basically complete.