A Complete Guide to the Key Technical Points for Establishing an Apricot Orchard for Kernel Production
Apricot trees are fruit trees that love sunlight, tolerate drought, and fear waterlogging and frost, so an orchard should be established on a sunny, high, and dry site; it must not be established on shady slopes, waterlogged lowlands, or valley bottoms where cold air easily settles.
Apricot trees are long-lived fruit trees; generally even 100- to 200-year-old trees still bear heavily, so the planned row and plant spacing should be somewhat large. However, to meet the need for early high yields, temporary trees can be set up when the orchard is established, and gradually thinned out or transplanted as the trees age. The row and plant spacing for the permanent rows can be designed at 4 m x 6 m, and for temporarily densified orchards at 2 m x 3 m; by around 10 years of age the temporary trees should be dealt with in time. Soil and fertilizer-water conditions should also be considered in planning: if the soil is fertile, the soil layer is deep, and water sources are abundant, the row and plant spacing should be increased by about 1 m. Conversely, if the soil is poor and dry, the row and plant spacing can be reduced by about 0.5 m.
When planting, dig a planting trench 1 m deep and 1 m wide, or a planting hole 1 m long, 1 m wide, and 1 m deep; add barnyard manure to the bottom of the trench (30-50 kg per tree), backfill the topsoil, and plant the seedling in the middle. For conventional seedlings, the graft union should be parallel to the ground; for "three-at-once" seedlings, the original ground level should be parallel to the ground. Firm the soil, water thoroughly, and cover with a piece of plastic film to conserve water. Head the tree at 60 cm, put on a plastic film tube, and remove it after leaf expansion.
When planting, special attention must be paid to providing pollinizer trees; generally the ratio of the main cultivar to the pollinizer cultivar is 4:1 or 5:1.