Key management points for greenhouse apricot trees after entering spring
Key management points for greenhouse apricot trees in spring. For apricot trees in winter-warm greenhouses, the fruit development period runs from mid-February to the end of April. This period is divided into three main development stages. The first stage is the apricot tree's first rapid growth period and new shoot growth period, lasting 28-34 days; the second stage is the pit-hardening period, lasting 8-12 days; the third stage is the apricot fruit's second...
Key management points for greenhouse apricot trees in spring. For apricot trees in winter-warm greenhouses, the fruit development period runs from mid-February to the end of April. This period is divided into three main development stages. The first stage is the apricot tree's first rapid growth period and new shoot growth period, lasting 28-34 days; the second stage is the pit-hardening period, lasting 8-12 days; the third stage is the apricot fruit's second rapid growth period and new shoot growth period, lasting 20-30 days.
Management work for the first stage: after flowering, apply 0.5 kg of nitrogen fertilizer and 1 kg of phosphorus fertilizer per tree, and within two weeks after flowering spray 0.3% urea once every 7 days. After leaf expansion, spray Jingzhi or Yashijing 3000-5000 times dilution. After flowering, promptly girdle the vigorous branches of vigorous trees, 3-5 cuts per branch, with 2-3 cm spacing. Within two weeks after flowering, spray 3 times with fruit-setting agent, 0.1% boric acid, 25 ppm gibberellin plus 0.3% monopotassium phosphate, glucose and 300 times dilution anti-drop color-enhancing agent to increase the fruit-setting rate. Remove improperly positioned buds, and pinch the growing tips when new shoots reach 25 cm, around late February to early March. Thin out small fruits at the base of fruiting branches, deformed fruits, twin fruits, and diseased or insect-damaged fruits. The maximum temperature inside the greenhouse should be 20°C-25°C, not lower than 7°C at night, with an optimum temperature of 15°C-18°C, relative humidity less than 6%, and optimum soil temperature of 14°C-19°C. Try to increase the carbon dioxide concentration inside the greenhouse and prevent the greenhouse temperature from fluctuating sharply.
In the second stage, two aspects must be well controlled: 1. Fruit setting. Leave one fruit on flower-bouquet fruit branches, 1-2 fruits on short fruit branches, 2-3 fruits on medium fruit branches, and 4-6 fruits on long fruit branches. 2. Temperature and humidity control. The maximum temperature should not exceed 28°C, the average daily temperature should preferably be 18°C-22°C, and the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm should be controlled at 20°C-24°C.
In the third stage, three points must be well handled: 1. Fertilizer and water management. Spray 0.2%-0.3% urea plus 0.2%-0.3% monopotassium phosphate once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays. 2. Summer pruning. Pinch the growing tips when new shoots exceed 20 cm, pull branches to open the angle when main scaffold branches reach about 50 cm, promptly thin out vigorous shoots on the upper side and densely growing branches, open up the light path, and carry out girdling and twisting on some new shoots to promote flower bud differentiation and fruit coloring. 3. Environmental regulation. Keep the daytime temperature at 26°C-28°C, not exceeding 30°C, and nighttime at 10°C-25°C, to increase the day-night temperature difference, with humidity at 50%---60%, replenish carbon dioxide as much as possible, and pay attention to supplemental lighting. On the premise of not exceeding the maximum temperature, raise the greenhouse temperature as much as possible.