What to do when cherry tomatoes get leaf mold
What should you do when you find that cherry tomatoes have leaf mold? Cherry tomato leaf mold can be prevented and controlled as follows: 1. Symptoms. It mainly damages leaves, and in severe cases also damages stems, flowers and fruits. When leaves are infected, irregular or elliptical pale yellow chlorotic spots appear on the leaf surface, and a white mold layer first forms on the diseased part on the underside of the leaf, and later...
What should you do when you find that cherry tomatoes have leaf mold?
Cherry tomato leaf mold can be prevented and controlled as follows:
1. Symptoms
It mainly damages leaves, and in severe cases also damages stems, flowers and fruits. When leaves are infected, irregular or elliptical pale yellow chlorotic spots appear on the leaf surface, and a white mold layer first forms on the diseased part on the underside of the leaf; later the mold layer turns grayish brown or dark brown and velvety. When conditions are suitable, black mold can also grow on the upper surface of the lesions. As the disease spreads, the leaves gradually curl from the bottom upward, and the plant becomes yellowish brown and withered. When fruits are infected, black round or irregular patches form near the fruit stalk or on the fruit surface, becoming hard and sunken, and the fruit is unfit to eat. When young stems or fruit stalks are infected, the symptoms are similar to those on leaves.
2. Prevention and control methods
1. Reasonable crop rotation. In areas with severe disease, a crop rotation of more than 3 years should be implemented to reduce the primary infection source.
2. Seed soaking. Choose disease-resistant varieties, soak the seeds in 53°C warm water for 30 minutes before sowing, then dry them and sow.
3. Strengthen management and care. Strengthen temperature and humidity management in the greenhouse, ventilate in a timely manner, control watering appropriately, and remove moisture promptly after watering, so as to create temperature and humidity conditions unfavorable to the pathogen. Plant at an appropriate density, and prune and remove side shoots in a timely manner; use formula fertilization, avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizer, and improve plant disease resistance.
4. Chemical fumigation. Before transplanting, fumigate the greenhouse or glasshouse with sulfur powder. For every 55 cubic meters of space, use 0.13 kg of sulfur and 0.25 kg of sawdust, mix them and ignite; before transplanting, keep the greenhouse closed and fumigate for 24 hours. In the early stage of disease, use 45% chlorothalonil smoke agent at 250 g per mu of greenhouse each time, and fumigate overnight.
5. Skillful application of dust formulations. In the evening, spray 7% Yemeijing dust, or 5% Jiareinong dust, or 6.5% Jiameling ultra-fine dust, at 1 kg per mu each time, once every 8-10 days, alternating the pesticides.
6. Spraying pesticides. In the early stage of disease, spray Wuyi mycin aqueous solution at 100-150 times dilution, or 47% Jiareinong wettable powder at 700-800 times dilution, or 50% Duomeiling wettable powder at 800 times dilution, or 40% Yimeiwei wettable powder at 400 times dilution, at 50-65 L per mu. Spray once every 7-10 days, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.
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