How to Grow Kiwifruit for High Yields? A Detailed Guide to Cultivation Techniques
How can kiwifruit be grown for high yields? Please advise. For high-yielding kiwifruit, you can refer to the following cultivation techniques: 1. Variety selection: choose good varieties with large fruit, good quality, strong disease resistance and good yielding ability, such as Hayward, Allison, Bruno, etc. 2. Site selection and orchard establishment: kiwifruit likes cool and humid environments and is afraid of...

How can kiwifruit be grown for high yields? Please advise.
For high-yielding kiwifruit, you can refer to the following cultivation techniques:
1. Variety selection: choose good varieties with large fruit, good quality, strong disease resistance and good yielding ability, such as Hayward, Allison, Bruno, etc.
2. Site selection and orchard establishment: kiwifruit likes cool and humid environments. It is afraid of drought, waterlogging and wind, and is cold-tolerant, but not tolerant of late frost in early spring. Therefore, kiwifruit orchards in mountainous areas should be located on wind-sheltered, sunny hillsides or open ground. The soil should preferably be loose, well-drained, micro-acidic sandy loam with high organic matter content and a pH of 5.5-6.5.
3. Cultivation method: before planting, dig the planting holes first, with a hole diameter of 1 m and a depth of 40-50 cm. Apply 40-60 kg of compost, 20 g of phosphate fertilizer and 400 g of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizer to each hole. Planting can be done anytime from leaf fall in autumn to before budbreak in spring, but late October in autumn and late February in spring, before the sap-bleeding period of the shoots, are best. The spacing between plants and rows is 4.6 x 6.0 m. To increase early yields, plant at twice the density and thin out after the plants mature. Also interplant 20% pollinator male plants.
4. Trellising: trellis cultivation is generally used, including trellis-fence style, arched tunnel style and fence style, with the horizontal trellis being the most suitable.
5. Summer management: after budding in summer, remove excessive vegetative side vines. Starting in June, frequently tie the new shoots so they spread evenly over the trellis surface. Leave 10-15 nodes on fruiting branches and 15-20 nodes on vegetative branches, and remove all the rest.
6. Hand pollination and fruit thinning: first dilute the pollen from male flowers 10 times with lycopodium powder, then pollinate with a cotton swab. In addition, male flowering branches can be grafted high onto female branches, or insects can be allowed to carry the pollen. Flower and fruit thinning should be done early. The standard is: leave 1 fruit per node on fruiting branches, remove side fruits and keep the middle fruit. The leaf-to-fruit ratio can also be used as a standard, that is, leave 1 fruit for every 4-5 leaves. Generally, leave 1-2 fruits on weak fruiting branches 20 cm long, 3-4 fruits on fruiting branches 20-60 cm long, and 5-6 fruits on fruiting branches over 60 cm long, leaving 20,000 fruits per 1.5 mu.
7. Winter pruning: prune from late December to late February of the following year. After winter pruning, generally leave 3-4 fruiting branches and 15-16 buds per mu of trellis surface. The complete tree structure per plant is: 1 trunk, 2 main branches, 3 secondary main branches, 26 side branches, 90 fruiting mother branches and 315 fruiting branches.
8. Scientific harvesting: kiwifruit is harvested from mid-September to mid-October. At this time the fruit is fully mature and can be picked. When picking, handle gently and place gently, and avoid squeezing or bruising when stacking. After harvest, the fruit needs an 8-10 day ripening period before it can be eaten.
9. Pest control: kiwifruit has very strong disease and pest resistance. Its main pests include small leafhoppers, bean hawkmoths and scale insects, etc. Corresponding measures should be taken and control work should be carried out well.
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