Detailed Explanation of Waxberry (Chinese Bayberry) Propagation Methods and Technical Points
How should waxberry (Chinese bayberry) be propagated? Please explain that waxberry propagation can adopt methods such as digging-grafting, or grafting after rootstock transplanting, or grafting after root pruning in the nursery. In the Cixi and Yuyao areas, the digging-grafting propagation technique is basically used, which not only extends the grafting period, but also allows indoor operation, greatly reducing labor intensity...

How should waxberry (Chinese bayberry) be propagated? Please explain
Waxberry (Chinese bayberry) propagation can adopt methods such as digging-grafting, or grafting after rootstock transplanting, or grafting after root pruning in the nursery. In the Cixi and Yuyao areas, the digging-grafting propagation technique is basically used, which not only extends the grafting period, but also allows indoor operation, greatly reducing labor intensity, being free from the restrictions of time, place and weather conditions, and also overcoming the shortcoming of 1-2 year old waxberry rootstocks having excessive sap flow that affects the grafting survival rate. With this grafting method, the survival rate is generally about 80%, and the number of nursery stock output per 666.7 sq m in the same year can reach 7,000 plants.
1. Grafting period and method: Grafting is carried out from March 10 to April 10 each year. One week before grafting, dig up waxberry rootstocks from the rootstock field or buy waxberry rootstocks and pile them indoors. The selected rootstocks should be 1-2 years old, with a thickness of about 0.6-1.0 cm. The scions taken are generally fully mature, robust shoots with plump buds from the middle and upper parts of the outer canopy of 7-15 year old fine-variety waxberry trees, preferably current-year spring shoots with leaves, with a thickness requirement of 0.5-1.0 cm, basically consistent with the rootstock thickness. After cutting the scions, the leaves should be immediately removed (keeping the petioles). When grafting, cut the scion into segments of about 8 cm long, and from the lower part of the scion stick, cut downward to form a "long cut surface" that reaches the xylem, about 3 cm long, then turn the scion stick over and cut at a 45° angle to form a "short cut surface", about 1 cm long. Before cutting the rootstock, the upper main trunk of the rootstock should be cut off, leaving only a 3 cm long main trunk base. On one side at 1/4 of its cross-section, use a sharp knife to make a vertical cut from top to bottom, with a length equal to or slightly longer than the "long cut surface" of the scion. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock cut, with the "long cut surface" of the scion closely attached to one side of the rootstock cut, so that the cambium layers of both are in close contact. After grafting, wrap the entire grafting site tightly with plastic film, and cover the cut end at the upper part of the scion from top to bottom to reduce water evaporation. The scion and rootstock should be cut and grafted immediately, with quick movements. When grafting, it is best to have one person specialized in cutting scions and rootstocks, and another person specialized in wrapping with film, to improve work efficiency.
2. Post-grafting storage: After grafting, they can be planted immediately. If the weather is unsuitable, they can be preserved by temporary planting. Bury the grafted seedlings in a wet sand bed indoors, covering only the grafting site. It is best to arrange them neatly. The sand moisture should be such that it can be formed into a ball when squeezed and crumbles when touched; too dry or too wet is not good. Alternatively, first arrange the grafted seedlings neatly, spray the roots wet, and cover and wrap them tightly with plastic film for storage; this method cannot be used for too long a storage time.
3. Nursery planting: The nursery site should be selected with loose, breathable soil, rich in organic matter, acidic or slightly acidic sandy mountain field soil, preferably with drainage and irrigation. Prepare the nursery site into beds 1 m wide (including the bed ditch), with a ditch depth of 0.4 m and width of 0.3 m. The planting time is the same as the grafting time; it is best to choose a day when it is not raining for planting. Plant two rows per bed, with a row spacing of 20 cm and a plant spacing of 6-7 cm; generally 666.7 sq m can plant 10,000 plants. When planting grafted waxberry seedlings in the nursery, soil must be mounded up, and the mounded soil must be at least 1 cm above the topmost part of the scion. Under the protection of mounded soil, the temperature and humidity are relatively stable, which is beneficial to graft union healing, survival and growth. In early May, the scions sprout, and the soil covering the buds generally collapses automatically; if there are still soil clods pressing on them, they should be removed in time to facilitate sprouting.
4. Seedling stage management: In mid-May, check the survival rate of grafted seedlings and promptly pull out dead seedlings. After the grafted seedlings survive and sprout, promptly remove all rootstock suckers; generally there are fewer suckers. In the nursery, topdress the grafted seedlings with thin fertilizer applied frequently; in June, July and August, apply fertilizer once a month, mainly compound fertilizer, diluted to 0.5% for watering application. Promptly remove weeds in the nursery, frequently carry out shallow intertillage to loosen the surface soil, while carefully preventing damage to the seedlings. During the plum rain season, drain water promptly; during the drought in July-August, irrigate promptly to combat drought. For pests and diseases, mainly control the waxberry leaf-roller moth (commonly known as the leaf-rolling worm), twice a year; the larvae occur from late May to mid-June and in July-August, and can be controlled with 50% fenitrothion emulsifiable concentrate at 1,000 times dilution and dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate at 1,200 times dilution.
5. Nursery stock output: The output time is generally between February and March. Nursery stock is graded according to trunk height and stem thickness: trunk height >= 40 cm and stem thickness >= 0.5 cm is grade 1; trunk height >= 25 cm and stem thickness >= 0.4 cm is grade 2; below grade 2 is not considered commercial stock. When lifting seedlings, minimize root damage, keep the root system intact, and promptly remove most branches and leaves to reduce water evaporation. If transporting over long distances, remove all shoots and leaves, then dip the roots in mud slurry and wrap with straw, to help improve the planting survival rate.
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