A Complete Analysis of Hardy Kiwi Cultivation Techniques
Hardy kiwi (Actinidia arguta) is a large deciduous climbing plant of the genus Actinidia in the family Actinidiaceae. Its branchlets are basically hairless, or when young are scattered with a thin covering of soft down or fine hairs. The leaves are ovate, oblong, broadly ovate to nearly round, and the fruit is spherical to columnar-oblong, green-yellow or purple-red when ripe. It is rich in nutrients and has extremely high cultivation value. Let us take a look together at the cultivation techniques for hardy kiwi below!
Growth Habits of Hardy Kiwi
Hardy kiwi grows on shady slopes in fertile soil within coniferous and broad-leaved mixed forests and miscellaneous wood forests, and some grow on sunny slopes in places with sufficient moisture. It prefers cool, humid climates, or beside mountain gullies and streams, mostly climbing on broad-leaved trees, with its branches and vines mostly concentrated in the upper part of the canopy. In China it is distributed from the northernmost banks of the Heilongjiang River to the Wuling mountain region within Guangxi in the south.
Propagation Methods of Hardy Kiwi
Hardy kiwi is propagated by hardwood cuttings. From mid-February to mid-March, collect 1-year-old branches that are wild, robust in growth, with plump buds and not yet sprouting, and store them in low-temperature moist sand or in a cellar. Before cutting, cut them into cuttings 15 cm long with 3 to 4 lateral buds. The upper cut should be made flat 1 cm above the upper bud; the cutting should be flat-cut about 1.5 cm above the upper sprouting bud, and the lower cut should be slanted on the back side of the bud into a horseshoe shape. Soak the slanted cut end of the cuttings in a 50 mg/kg aqueous solution of ABT No. 1 rooting powder for 2 to 4 hours. The insertion depth should be such that the bud eye of the sprouting bud left at the upper end of the cutting is 1 cm below the bed surface.
Cultivation Techniques of Hardy Kiwi
1. Site selection and land preparation: For hardy kiwi cultivation, choose mountain land with loose soil, deep soil layers, high humus content, relatively good light conditions, and a gentle slope with a semi-sunny aspect. After selecting the site, carry out strip-shaped land preparation to a depth of 20 to 30 cm, and apply 15 to 25 tons per hectare of fully decomposed organic fertilizer.
2. Transplanting and planting: After the soil thaws, plant hardy kiwi at a spacing of 2.0 to 2.5 m between plants and 4 to 5 m between rows. When planting, first dig the planting pit and backfill a small amount of soil, place the seedling into the pit, spread out the roots, backfill soil to half the height of the seedling, press down gently and firmly, and after watering thoroughly twice, cover with soil.
3. Male and female arrangement: Hardy kiwi is dioecious, so attention should be paid to arranging pollinator trees, with the ratio of female to male plants preferably 8:1. For newly planted seedlings, water promptly to prevent drought, and apply an appropriate amount of supplementary fertilizer together with irrigation. If there is too much rain, drain waterlogged areas promptly.
4. Trellis installation: Hardy kiwi needs support structures to climb on. Its horizontally growing branches have more flower buds than upright branches and are easier to manage and harvest, making it suitable for trellis cultivation. The trellis wooden posts are 1.6 to 2.0 m high, with crossbars or wire strung between the posts.
5. Intertillage management: Each year, around the cultivation holes, loosen the soil 2 to 3 times in conjunction with weeding to increase ground temperature and soil permeability. The area of loosened soil gradually expands as the canopy spreads. When weeding and loosening the soil, take care to avoid damage, and keep the soil near the root zone loose and free of weeds.
6. Water and fertilizer management: Hardy kiwi likes warmth and moisture. If drought occurs, water promptly; if rainwater accumulates, drain it promptly; and before winter begins, irrigate with anti-freezing water. Fertilization should be frequent, in small amounts, and shallow. Carry out the first supplementary fertilization during the period from spring bud break to the start of new shoot growth, and carry out another supplementary fertilization in late July.