Detailed Explanation of Sweet Peach Planting Methods and Technical Points
How are sweet peaches grown? Please provide a detailed introduction to sweet peach planting methods. Sweet peach, also known as red peach, is a deciduous fruit tree belonging to the small-to-medium fruit category. Without fruit thinning, the single fruit weight is about 100 grams; with artificial fruit thinning, the single fruit weight can increase to 150 grams, and the maximum fruit weight can reach 250 grams. After trial planting in Guangdong...
How are sweet peaches grown? Please provide a detailed introduction to sweet peach planting methodsSweet peach, also known as red peach, is a deciduous fruit tree belonging to the small-to-medium fruit category. Without fruit thinning, the single fruit weight is about 100 grams; with artificial fruit thinning, the single fruit weight can increase to 150 grams, and the maximum fruit weight can reach 250 grams. After trial planting in Guangdong, the fruit ripening period is in mid-to-late May. When ripe, the fruit is bright red, crisp, refreshingly sweet, and good in flavor, firm and storage-resistant, with the flesh not fully separating from the pit. Planted in the same year, the per-plant yield can reach more than 3 kg the following year. It is a new fruit tree variety with very promising development prospects. The following introduces sweet peach planting techniques for reference:
1. Soil:Peach trees are not picky about soil type. Peach trees cultivated in fertile areas tend to produce excessive vegetative growth on branches and shoots, making it difficult to adjust tree vigor through fertilization and other cultivation techniques. In contrast, on sandy soil they grow slowly and are prone to forming flower buds, and even with minimal management can still produce a considerable harvest. However, regardless of the soil type, drainage must be good; otherwise, after three or four years of planting, the roots will gradually rot. Peach trees have extremely weak resistance to waterlogging, and may die after being submerged for more than 8 hours. Peach trees dislike shade and prefer sunlight; in areas with insufficient sunlight, photosynthesis is weak and fruit sweetness decreases.
2. Fertilization:The amount of fertilizer applied should be adjusted according to the actual soil fertility and fertility level of the orchard. Generally, a four-year-old peach tree requires 150-300 grams of nitrogen, 45-70 grams of phosphorus, and 100-250 grams of potassium per tree. According to this standard, and with further reference to soil, climatic conditions, and fertilizer types, a reasonable arrangement can be made. It can be divided into one basal fertilizer application, that is, after the fruit trees shed their leaves, mainly applying organic manure, commonly with compost, irrigation, soybean cake, and chicken manure as the main materials, combined with phosphorus, potassium, and other chemical fertilizers applied at one time. The earlier organic fertilizer is applied, the better, so that the fertilizer can be fully absorbed when sprouting begins. For additional fertilizer, compound fertilizer should be used, and it is advisable to apply small amounts more frequently, usually once each at the early fruiting stage, the fruit enlargement stage, and at harvest. However, the topdressing after harvest must not be too late; otherwise, branches and shoots will grow excessively and the tree will not easily enter dormancy, which will inevitably affect flowering and fruiting the following year.
3. Fruit thinning:Doing a good job of fruit thinning is the key to determining whether cultivation succeeds. When thinning fruit, leave those that are well developed and normal in shape on a bearing branch. In terms of the fruiting portion, fruits borne in the middle and at the base are better than those at the tip, so the terminal fruits are mostly removed. Fruits set above the bearing area color earlier, but fruit set is unstable, so it is better to keep fruits on the side and below the epidermis. The number of fruits left after thinning must not be too large. Generally, the baseline is 15-20 leaves per fruit and about 200,000-250,000 fruits per hectare, and appropriate consideration can be made according to the actual tree age and tree vigor. When thinning fruit, some adjustment should also be made according to the type of bearing branch. In principle, short and medium fruit-bearing branches retain 1 fruit, while long fruit-bearing branches retain 2-3 fruits. When there are many long fruit-bearing branches, retain 1-2 fruits on each long fruit-bearing branch, while medium and short fruit-bearing branches retain no fruit.
4. Pest and disease control: To control peach root rot and gummosis, combine soil fertility improvement with chemical control. Improving soil fertility mainly means applying organic fertilizer to increase the soil organic matter content. For chemical control, before bud break, spray the whole orchard with 5-degree lime sulfur mixture, or use fungicides such as quintozene to drench the roots and apply to the diseased spots.
To control peach aphids, peach fruit borers, and brown scale insects, seize the opportunity for orchard cleanup in late March, and use chlorpyrifos, imidacloprid, and others as appropriate.
5. Harvest:Sweet peach belongs to the honey peach category, and its flavor is best when fully ripe. However, for transportation and sales considerations, it is mostly harvested at 70-80% ripeness. When harvesting, first pick the fruits at the top of the canopy. Observe the background color of the peel; when the original green has completely disappeared and turned pale white, and the colored portion has become bright red, it can be harvested.
6. Training and pruning:Peach tree branches mostly spread outward, so open-center training is suitable. This helps obtain ideal sunlight. The method is to have 2-3 main branches. At 30-40 cm above the ground, train the first main branch, and afterward leave the second and third main branches on the trunk every 20-25 cm. The angle formed between the main branches and the trunk is about 30 degrees. On the main branches, the distance between secondary main branches is 120-150 cm. The number of secondary main branches on each main branch is 3-5, and they should balance each other, avoiding overlap and crossing from top to bottom. The angle between secondary main branches and main branches is about 25-30 degrees.
Pruning is divided into two types:
1. Winter thinning: From the base where branches diverge, cut out excessive fruit-bearing branches and other useless branches. Shorten the main branches so that strong new branches emerge from the main branches or secondary main branches. Cut out old and declining branches and renew them into new growth to achieve metabolism.
2. Summer pruning: (1) Pinching: New shoots emerging from the trunk and the bases of main branches and secondary main branches may become water sprouts and affect tree vigor, so the growing points should be pinched off early before the shoot tips become woody. (2) Tip removal: Before new shoots have fully lignified, remove their terminal tips to inhibit continued elongation or promote the growth of side branches, or to make the branch thicker and stronger. (3) Twisting: If new branches have already formed and are fully lignified, twisting can be carried out. For branches where pinching did not achieve the goal and a second flush of shoots has emerged, twisting can also be carried out to moderate growth.
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