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  • Lessons to Remember After Losing Out by Not Applying Organic Fertilizer to Jujube Trees

    This year, the selling prices of jujubes varied greatly. The price differences were mainly due to differences in sweetness and crispness, and apart from varietal characteristics, the main reason for the differences in sweetness and crispness was the different types of fertilizer applied. Currently, it is the second root development period for jujube trees. The first root growth peak occurs from late May to early June after new shoots stop growing, and the second root growth peak occurs from after fruit harvest to early November. From surveys of jujube growers, many farmers are only accustomed to fertilizing fruit trees in spring,

  • Detailed explanation of the specific operation techniques for flower and fruit thinning in pear trees

    1. Master the timing of flower and fruit thinning. Flowering, fruit set, and the number of cells in young fruit are mostly determined by stored nutrients. Remove as many excess flowers and fruits as possible to reduce wasteful consumption and concentrate all nutrients on the flowers and fruits that should be retained, so they can grow into large fruits. Therefore, from this reasoning, earlier thinning is better: thinning flower buds is better than thinning flowers, and thinning flowers is better than thinning fruits. However, decide whether to thin buds, thin flowers, thin fruits, or combine all three according to the year's flower quantity, weather during the flowering period, tree vigor, fruit-setting ability, and other conditions. For pear orchards with a large flower quantity (an "on" year), good weather, and a heavy workload, you can

  • Detailed Explanation of the Causes of Fruit Cracking in Jujube Trees and Prevention Measures

    In recent years, the problem of cracked jujubes has been troubling jujube growers, causing varying degrees of loss to jujube production, with losses exceeding 50% in severe cases. The problem of cracked jujubes is the most difficult problem to solve in jujube production, and deserves great attention from fruit tree researchers and jujube growers. Through years of practice, the author has taken targeted measures based on the causes of cracked jujubes, which can effectively solve the problem of cracked jujubes. The summary is as follows for the reference of fruit tree researchers and jujube growers. 1. Causes of cracked jujubes. Cause one: Years of applying chemical

  • What are the control methods for bacterial shot hole disease in peach trees?

    (1) Damage symptoms. Peach bacterial shot hole disease mainly damages peach leaves, and also infects twigs and fruit. After leaves are affected, nearly round or irregular brown lesions appear, and the lesions gradually dry up and fall off to form shot holes, hence the name shot hole disease. In severe cases, several lesions often join together to form large scorched patches, causing most of the leaf to dry up and resulting in early defoliation, so the disease is also called peach early defoliation disease. (2) Control methods. 1. Strengthen comprehensive management of the peach orchard. Apply more organic fertilizer, avoid

  • Technical measures for snow and freeze protection of mulberry trees, tea trees and fruit trees

    I. Fruit: (1) Citrus: Before freezing, spray an anti-transpirant insulation agent on the tree canopy, and light smoke in the orchard to improve the freeze protection effect. For citrus affected by freezing injury, promptly remove curled, frost-killed leaves and withered shoot tips, bandage branches damaged by snow pressure, prune and shape branches broken by pressure, treat wounds with a wound protectant, promptly spray foliar fertilizer, and strengthen fertilizer and water management. For lightly frozen trees, apply 0.5% urea as a foliar topdressing 2-3 times; for severely frozen trees, it is advisable to apply light fertilizer multiple times in split applications. (2) Loquat: Insulate the tree disk by hilling soil or covering it with rice straw;

  • Detailed Explanation of the Key Points of Shaping and Pruning Techniques for Young Goji Berry Trees

    Goji berry trees generally enter the young tree stage 4-5 years after planting. At this time, the tree body grows vigorously and has a strong branching ability. If the branches are pinched back, they can sprout branches three or four times within a year. The shaping and pruning of young trees is mainly focused on shaping, selecting and retaining strong branches to cultivate the tree crown framework, gradually expanding the tree crown, cultivating branch groups, and increasing fruiting branches. In the selection and cultivation of tree shape, flexible adoption should be made according to cultivation conditions, with the principle of favoring high yield, laying the foundation for future high yields. Although there are many tree shapes for goji berry trees, the principles of shaping and pruning are basically the same; only the

  • Pruning Methods for Goji Trees in the Late Full-Bearing Stage

    In the late full-bearing stage, the tree grows weakly, produces fewer shoots, and has short branches, with a marked decline in yield. At this time, the main task of pruning is to strengthen the tree's vigor. In addition to the general pruning carried out for trees in the full-bearing stage, the weakened scaffold branches or branch groups should also be renewed and rejuvenated. The specific method is to pinch off the growing tips of water sprouts in summer, and after side branches emerge, train them into new branch groups, while cutting back the scaffold branches above the water sprouts. If there are no water sprouts, cut back in spring pruning to the middle of 3-5 year old scaffold branches, or even a bit more severely, to stimulate the latent buds below the cut to sprout water sprouts,

  • Detailed Explanation of Key Techniques for Transplanting Large Red Spruce (Picea koraiensis) Trees

    Red spruce, also known as Tiger-tail Pine, Korean Spruce, etc., is an evergreen tree of the genus Picea in the family Pinaceae. It is native to Northeast China and Korea, and is now widely planted in the Beijing and Qingdao areas, with some distribution in the Northwest as well. This tree species has a graceful form, with a spire-shaped crown and large branches that spread horizontally or extend slightly at an angle; it is highly adaptable, with a shallow root system and well-developed lateral roots, making it relatively easy to survive after transplanting. I. Transplanting Time: Spring is the best time for transplanting large trees. Under complete technical measures, transplanting in late November and late May can both achieve a survival rate of over 98%. II. Transplanting Preparation

  • Detailed Guide to Identifying and Controlling Peach Aphids on Peach Trees

    The peach aphid, also known as the peach red aphid, cabbage aphid, or greasy bug, among other names. Its main hosts include broccoli, purple cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, radish and other cruciferous vegetables as well as other vegetables. Adults and nymphs pierce and suck sap on the leaves, causing the leaves to curl and deform, affecting head formation. They damage the tender stems, tender leaves, flower stalks and tender pods of seed-producing plants, causing the flower stalks to twist and become deformed, so they cannot bolt, flower and set seed normally. In addition, aphids also transmit a variety of viral diseases. Occurrence characteristics: generation overlap is extremely severe. In heated greenhouses, they reproduce parthenogenetically on vegetables throughout the year. In the open field: in late April of the following spring

  • Detailed Explanation of Key Pruning Techniques for Goji Berry Trees

    I. Pruning in the Young Stage 1. Trunk-establishing pruning: During the bud-break period of the nursery stock, remove the buds below 40 cm (the branching zone) on the main trunk base stem, and cut the top at a plant height of 60 cm~70 cm. 2. Summer pruning: From late April to late July, at 15-day intervals, remove the shoots within the branching zone of the main trunk, and cut back the lateral branches retained on the branching zone at 20 cm~25 cm to promote the sprouting of secondary fruiting branches; from the strong upward-growing branches on the lateral branches, select and retain 2~3 branches growing in different directions close to the main branch, and cut and join them at 30 cm