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How to prevent and control jujube witches' broom disease when growing jujube trees?
Recently, many readers have consulted us: their jujube trees are harmed by jujube witches' broom disease every year. What is going on? How should it be prevented and controlled? To address these questions, the reporter interviewed Feng Yibin, a researcher at the Zhengzhou Fruit Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences.
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Experience Sharing on Raising Jujube Sucker Seedlings by Returning Them to the Nursery
Using jujube sucker seedlings from jujube orchards and returning them to the nursery is a widely applied method for cultivating strong jujube seedlings. (1) Land preparation: choose flat loam soil with a water source as the nursery. Plow deeply 20 cm and apply sufficient farmyard manure as base fertilizer. Make beds 90 cm wide and 10 m long, oriented north-south, with 2 rows of seedlings per bed.
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When to Apply Top Dressing to Jujube Trees? A Detailed Guide to Growing Experience
Top dressing must be applied during the growing season when the jujube tree most needs nutrients. If the timing of top dressing is incorrect, the purpose of top dressing cannot be achieved, and sometimes it even has the opposite effect, reducing jujube yield and quality and wasting labor and fertilizer. According to the characteristics of the phenological phases of jujube trees, top dressing of jujube trees
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How to prevent and treat jujube witches' broom disease? Essential methods for anyone growing jujube trees
Jujube witches' broom disease is a viral disease caused by mycoplasma-like organisms, transmitted by leafhopper insects such as the round-spotted leafhopper, or through infected root, stem and leaf seedlings or the graft buds and rootstock of grafted seedlings. It is fairly common in affected regions and often becomes the "cancer" of jujube cultivation. At present there are several treatments
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Comprehensive Control Methods for the Peach Borer Moth in Peach Cultivation
The peach borer moth larvae bore into and feed on peach fruit, causing gumming; the fruit discolors and drops, or the interior becomes filled with insect frass, making it unfit to eat, and this has a great impact on both yield and quality. I. Occurrence pattern. In Shandong, this pest occurs in 2-3 generations per year, mainly overwintering as mature larvae in cocoons inside damaged mummified peaches, bark crevices, gaps among loose stones in embankments, chestnut burs, sunflower heads, castor seeds, and corn and sorghum stalks, with a small portion overwintering as pupae. In Shandong, the first moth emergence of the overwintering generation occurs in mid-May, with the peak in early to mid-June; most eggs of the 1st generation are laid on early-maturing peach varieties, with the most eggs laid on the ventral (belly) side; the newly hatched larvae appear in mid-to-late June and mainly damage early-maturing peach fruit, boring into the fruit to feed; mature larvae spin cocoons and pupate at the stem cavity of damaged fruit and in bark crevices. The 1st-generation adults begin emerging in early July, with the peak from late July to early August; adults are highly selective in egg-laying, basically laying eggs on late-maturing peach varieties and pomegranates; newly hatched 2nd-generation larvae are found in mid-to-late July, with the peak in early to mid-August; by late July, larvae are already found maturing and pupating. The pupation peak is in mid-to-late August. As late-maturing peaches begin to be harvested, adults then move to other crops to lay eggs and continue causing damage.
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Pollination, Fruit Thinning and Harvesting Techniques for Peach Tree Cultivation
Practice has shown that to achieve high yields in peaches, pollination, fruit thinning and harvesting must be carried out at the right time. Pollination: During the flowering period of peaches, rainy and low-temperature weather often occurs, creating obstacles to normal pollination. This contradiction is even more pronounced for pollenless varieties. To achieve high and stable yields in peaches,
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Practical experience shared on greenhouse cultivation of cherries
Editor's note: Recently, quite a few readers have consulted our newspaper's Science and Technology 110 hotline about greenhouse cherry cultivation. For this reason, the editorial department of this page has specially put together this page on greenhouse construction, temperature, humidity and water-fertilizer management, shaping and pruning, and pest and disease control in greenhouse cherry cultivation
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Key Techniques and Precautions for Summer Pruning of Cherry Trees
One, pinching. Its purpose is to control vigorous shoot growth, increase the number of branches and branching orders, promote the transformation of branch types, and expand the canopy. This measure is mainly used on young trees and vigorous trees. The best time for pinching is during the rapid growth period of new shoots. When the new shoots reach about 20-25 cm in length,
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How to make cherry field management more effective
The annual management technical points for cherry trees are as follows: 1. From November to early March of the following year, winter pruning and orchard cleanup. Currently, 3 main tree forms are used in production: ① Natural open-center form; generally the trunk heading height is 45-60 cm, trunk height 30-50 cm, 3-5 main branches, main branch angle about 30°. Each main branch cultivates 5-7 side branches, arranged in layers, generally 4-5 layers, 1-2 per layer, with a layer spacing of 60 cm, side branch spacing of 30 cm, and side branch angle of 50°, mainly cultivating side or dorsal-slanting side branches; ② Clustered natural form; generally 5-6 main branches, with the trunk and main branches clustered near the ground. The main branches bear 3-4 side branches or large fruiting branch groups; ③ Central-leader layered form; trunk height 50 cm, tree height 2.5-3 m. 6-8 main branches, arranged in 3-4 layers. The first layer has 3-4 main branches, each bearing 4-6 side branches respectively, with a main branch angle of 60°. The second and third layers have 2 main branches each, with an angle of 45°. The fourth layer main branch angle should be less than 45°. The side branches borne on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th layer main branches are all 2-4. The layer spacing between the 1st and 2nd main branches is 70-80 cm, and the layer spacing between the 2nd and 3rd layer main branches is 60-70 cm. The trunk heading height of cherries is determined according to the requirements of different high-yield tree forms. After planting, in the first year, generally 3-5 branches can be produced. During pruning, select and retain good main branches according to the specific branching situation. For cultivating the layered form, first retain the upright strong branch below the pruning cut as the central leader, with a suitable cut length of 50 cm; then select 2-3 healthy branches with suitable angles as main branches. For cultivating the natural open-center form, first select and retain 2-4 healthy branches with suitable angles as main branches. After trunk heading, if the branching position is too low, it can be cultivated into a clustered natural form. In the second year after planting, for cultivating the natural open-center form, select and retain branches with suitable angles as side branches at 60 cm from the base of the main branch. For the central-leader layered tree form, select the side branches on the first layer main branches well, and select the second layer main branches on the central leader at 70-80 cm from the upper first-layer main branch. In the 3rd-4th year after planting, continue to cultivate the main and side branches. Cherries grow rapidly. During the young tree period, maintain the dominant-subordinate relationship of the tree body well, pay attention to balancing tree vigor, and open the branch angles. Make full use of summer pinching and other measures to increase the amount of branches and leaves, cultivate fruiting branch groups as much as possible, and lay the foundation for early fruiting and early high yield. After entering the initial fruiting stage, the focus is on cultivating skeletal branches and fruiting branch groups. For those cultivated as branch groups, leave 20 cm and shorten in the first year; in the second year, shorten the first bud branch again, thin the dense ones and leave the weak ones for the remaining branches, and shorten moderate branches to promote branching; in the third year, thin out the strong vigorous branches at the tip of the branch group, leave the lower moderate and weak branches unpruned, and gradually cultivate them into compact branch groups. For varieties with strong branching ability, when using moderate branches to cultivate fruiting branch groups, first heavily shorten; after branching in the second year, pinch the new shoots to promote branching; in the third year, thin out the strong branches at the tip. Leave moderate and weak branches unpruned, and gradually cultivate them into fruiting branch groups. After entering the full fruiting stage, in order to maintain and rejuvenate the growth vigor of skeletal branches, heavily cut the extension branches of skeletal branches. Retract large and medium fruiting branch groups, moderately thin flower-bud-like fruiting branches, promote branching, and enhance tree vigor. Thin out strong upright branches and overly dense branches. Other 1-year-old branches are generally not shortened, and can be capped at the blind node or have the terminal bud broken to promote leaf-cluster-like short branches. In full-fruiting-stage trees, the proportion of short fruiting branches is relatively large, and short fruiting branches that bear fruit continuously for 5-6 years become budless empty branches and die. Therefore, reserve branches need to be retained during pruning. To prevent the fruiting part from moving outward and the inner crown from becoming bare, strengthen retraction of branch groups in the crown and renew and rejuvenate them.</p><p>2. Mid-to-late March, fertilize and irrigate, prepare pesticides. If basal fertilizer was not applied in autumn, it should be supplemented in spring. Irrigate the whole orchard thoroughly once. Boil lime sulfur mixture.</p><p>3. Early-to-mid April, intertillage, spraying, flowering-stage foliar fertilizer, frost prevention. After irrigation, carry out intertillage in time, with a suitable loosening depth of about 6 cm. When the tree buds swell, generally spray once with 3-5 Baume lime sulfur mixture to eliminate overwintering pests and diseases. Spray 0.1%-0.2% borax or 0.3%-0.4% monopotassium phosphate. Cherry flowering is easily damaged by late frost. In places with more late frost, irrigate once before cherry flowering to delay the flowering period and avoid frost damage.</p><p>4. Late April to early May, topdressing after flowering, summer pruning, irrigation, prevention and control of pests and diseases. Begin topdressing after cherry petals fall, with an average of 1 kg nitrogen fertilizer per fruiting tree, and 0.25 kg for small trees. Remove double buds and overly dense buds. From petal fall to harvest, irrigate once per week on average. After harvest, determine the number of irrigations according to soil moisture conditions. During this period, spider mites, aphids, scale insects and other pests are likely to occur. Apply corresponding insecticides for control, and clear weeds in the orchard.</p><p>5. Mid-May to late June, harvest. Early-maturing varieties such as Zaozi are generally harvested in mid-May. After that, mid-to-late maturing varieties such as Napoleon and Yellow Jade also mature one after another. Harvested cherry fruits should retain the fruit stalk, and care should be taken to pick and place them gently, and pack and transport them carefully to avoid damage.</p><p>6. July-August, intertillage and weeding, summer pruning, prevention and control of pests and diseases. Remove all weeds in the orchard and transport them outside the orchard for green manure. During the rainy season, when new shoots grow vigorously, pinch in time to ensure ventilation and light transmission of the tree body. In autumn, tent caterpillars are likely to occur and eat leaves, so corresponding insecticides should be sprayed.</p><p>7. September-October, fertilize, irrigate, loosen soil, and plow the ground. Apply basal fertilizer by the ring-shaped trench method, with 100-250 kg organic fertilizer per large tree and about 50 kg per small tree. After fertilization, irrigate thoroughly once. After irrigation, when the soil is no longer sticky, plow the whole orchard once.</p>
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What should be done in pear orchard management from June to July?
1. Continue to do a good job of shaping young pear trees. A good tree shape is the foundation for high-quality and high-yield pear trees. The "low-crown open-center" type is recommended, that is, one main trunk and 2-3 large main branches. This tree shape is especially suitable for coastal areas and is also one of the effective measures to prevent typhoon damage.
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