The diamond rose is actually a miniature series variety of the Chinese rose (Rosa chinensis). Because its flowering branches are short and small and its flowers are the size of bean buttons, it is prettily named "diamond rose" or "miniature rose". It belongs to the Rosaceae family as a perennial herbaceous plant, and each plant can bloom 30 to 50 flowers at the same time, in all shapes and forms, with bright colors. It is suitable for garden flower beds, roadside flower borders, lawn accents, and also for potted plant shaping, beautifying family homes, and decorating halls and rooms, and is deeply loved by the general public.
Growing Environment
Regarding light, studies have found that under the same temperature difference conditions (30°C day/21°C night, 21°C day/10°C night), a longer light duration can make miniature roses bloom earlier and significantly increase the number of flowers, while also making the plant shape more compact and beautiful. Regarding temperature, the optimum temperature conditions for miniature roses are: daytime temperature 20 to 21°C, nighttime temperature 16 to 18°C. In addition, high temperatures can promote earlier flowering in miniature roses, while low temperatures will delay flowering, and when the temperature is below 13°C the delaying effect is more pronounced; when the temperature is above 24°C, the net photosynthetic rate of the plant will decrease. Regarding water, excessive water easily leads to phenomena such as leaf yellowing, leaf drop, and reduced roots, while water-deficient plants are relatively difficult to recover on their own; in addition, when more fertilizer is applied, water deficiency can very easily cause soluble salt damage.
Cultivation Techniques
1. Preparing the growing soil: Because the diamond rose has many flowering branches, a large number of flowers, a long flowering period, and a high fertilizer requirement, it has relatively high requirements for the potting soil. First, the soil is required to be fertile with a high organic matter content; second, the potting soil is required to be loose and well-drained. A growing soil can be used with a formula such as garden soil: pond sludge: humus soil: fine coal cinder at 3:3:3:1, or peat soil: perlite: river water at 1:1:1. The growing soil should be composted, and before potting, it should be sprayed wet with 80% dichlorvos emulsifiable concentrate and 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 500 times dilution and piled and sealed to kill diseases and pests. When potting, it is even better to add a small amount of fine cake fertilizer at the bottom of the pot.
2. Potting, planting, and water and fertilizer management: Select seedlings with well-developed root systems, robust plant growth, and no diseases or pests for potting and planting. After planting, water thoroughly once, and place in a cool place or cover with plastic film or a shade net for 2 to 3 d. Within 2 to 3 d after planting, it is not suitable to water or fertilize. When the temperature is high, lift the film at noon to ventilate and cool down. After 2 to 3 d, remove the film or shade net, and gradually move to a sunny place. After the diamond rose is planted, fertilizer and water should not be too much; grasp the principle of "small amounts and many times, thin fertilizer and frequent application". Fertilizer water can be applied once every 7 to 10 d, and in the rainy season it can be appropriately extended, mainly determined by the moisture condition of the potting soil; it is appropriate for the potting soil to be moist but not soggy, and remember that water must not accumulate. At the same time, pay attention to high temperature and high humidity to prevent leggy branches and leaves, root rot, yellowing and withering of lower leaves, or the occurrence of diseases and pests.
After the diamond rose shows flower buds, a mixed liquid of 2% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate or rotted bean cake water can be used weekly as a foliar topdressing. Do not drench with manure water, so as to avoid causing yellow leaves and leaf drop.
Autumn fertilization must not be too late, to prevent autumn shoots from growing too vigorously, which would both affect flowering and prevent timely lignification, and is unfavorable for overwintering.
3. Repotting and pruning: After a period of growth, the potted plant will not only have roots filling the pot, but the soil nutrients in the pot will also be almost exhausted, and the soil will become compacted, which is unfavorable for the continued good growth of the diamond rose. Therefore, every 1 to 2 a, it is best to repot once before sprouting in early spring. When repotting, pay attention to cutting off part of the old roots. If not repotting, the surface soil can be scraped open 3 to 4 cm, and in January to February each year put in some bean cake fertilizer or chicken and duck manure as base fertilizer.
Because only the current year's branches of the diamond rose can bloom, winter heavy pruning is one of the keys to ensuring strong sprouting branches. Pruning is usually carried out in late December. When pruning, cut off diseased and pest-infested branches, weak branches, crossing branches, parallel branches, and leggy branches. Keep 6 to 8 robust current-year branches and basal buds, and reasonably distribute the crown shape.
4. Strengthening the prevention and control of diseases and pests:
The diseases and pests commonly occurring on the diamond rose include: powdery mildew, black spot, rust, and aphids. Disease control should adopt comprehensive measures, strengthen cultivation management, promote plant growth, and enhance disease resistance. In winter, sweep up fallen leaves, cut off diseased branches and diseased leaves, and burn them in a centralized manner to reduce the sources of initial infection, and before sprouting spray once with 3 to 4 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture. During the period of powdery mildew incidence, alternately spray 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder or 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 50% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 800 times dilution or 20% triadimefon wettable powder at 3000 to 4000 times dilution or 0.3 to 0.5 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture. Spray once every 7 to 10 d, for 3 to 4 consecutive sprays.
In the early stage of rust incidence, 0.3 to 0.5 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed; during the incidence period, 25% triadimefon wettable powder at 1500 to 2000 times dilution or sodium p-aminobenzenesulfonate wettable powder at 250 to 300 times dilution plus 0.1% laundry detergent or 0.2 to 0.4 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture can be alternately sprayed, once every 10 to 15 d, for 3 to 4 consecutive sprays. In the early stage of rust incidence, 0.3 to 0.5 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture can be sprayed; during the incidence period, 25% triadimefon wettable powder at 1500 to 2000 times dilution or sodium p-aminobenzenesulfonate wettable powder at 250 to 300 times dilution plus 0.1% laundry detergent or 0.2 to 0.4 degrees Baumé lime sulfur mixture can be alternately sprayed, once every 10 to 15 d, for 3 to 4 consecutive sprays.
For black spot, begin spraying for protection when new leaves have just unfolded, generally once every 7 to 10 d, twice a week in rainy periods, continuing until winter. The agents available include 50% carbendazim wettable powder at 800 times dilution or 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder or 80% zineb wettable powder at 500 times dilution.
Aphids mainly damage tender leaves, tender shoot tips, and flower buds, causing death, leaf curling, and leaf drop. Comprehensive measures should also be adopted for their control. First, strengthen field and courtyard management, remove weeds, and eliminate overwintering eggs and nymphs; during the aphid occurrence period, spray 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate or 40% acephate emulsifiable concentrate at 1000 to 1500 times dilution or 2.5% deltamethrin emulsifiable concentrate at 3000 to 4000 times dilution (be careful to spray onto the underside of the leaves) to kill them.