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A Detailed Guide to Glass Balsam Planting Methods and Care Techniques

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views

Glass Balsam, of the Balsaminaceae family and the genus Impatiens, is a perennial succulent herbaceous plant that can reach a height of 70 cm. Its stems are upright, green or pale red, and its leaves are alternate. The peduncles arise from the leaf axils on the upper parts of the stems and branches, bearing 2 flowers. The flowers vary greatly in size and color, including bright red, deep red, pink, purplish red, light purple, blue-purple, or white. The capsule is spindle-shaped, and it flowers from June to October.


Glass Balsam Planting Techniques

Potting Glass Balsam: When potting seedlings, first place a 2-2 cm thick layer of coarse-grained substrate or ceramic granules at the bottom of the pot as a drainage layer. Sprinkle a layer of fully decomposed organic fertilizer on top as a base fertilizer, then place the plant in, keeping the fertilizer separate from the roots to avoid burning them.

Humidity management: Glass Balsam prefers a relatively dry air environment. If rainy and overcast days last too long, it is susceptible to infection by pathogens. It is afraid of rain, so keep the leaves dry at night. The optimal relative air humidity is 40-60%.

Temperature management: The optimal growing temperature for Glass Balsam is 15°C-32°C. It fears high temperatures and stuffiness, and enters a dormant state when the summer heat exceeds 33°C. It is averse to cold and frost, and the overwintering temperature needs to be kept above 10°C. It also enters a dormant state when the winter temperature drops below 7°C. If the ambient temperature approaches 4°C, it will die from frost damage.

Light management: In summer, keep it in a semi-shaded spot, or provide 50% shade for Glass Balsam, and the leaf color will become more beautiful. In spring and autumn, since the temperature is not very high, give it direct sunlight to help it carry out photosynthesis and accumulate nutrients.

Field management: Thinning and loosening soil and weeding: When the seedlings are about 10 cm tall, thin them out, and combine this with loosening the soil and weeding, hilling up soil around the roots to prevent lodging. When the seedlings are about 15 cm tall, loosen the soil once to keep it dry and loose, encouraging the plants to root and the stems to become thick and strong.
Topdressing: When the seedlings are about 40 cm tall, the lower old leaves can be removed and the growing tips pinched off to encourage more branching. At this point, a thin manure water can be applied appropriately; the fertilizer should not be too concentrated, otherwise it can easily cause root and stem rot. Before flowering, apply one topdressing of decomposed stable manure, about 1 kg per plant, by digging a furrow beside the plant, applying it, then covering with soil, and watering after fertilizing.

Watering: During the seedling stage, keep the soil moist. Water must not be lacking during the flowering period. In drought, water promptly, but in hot, rainy seasons, pay attention to timely drainage to prevent waterlogging.


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