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Rosa roxburghii Cultivation Methods and Key Technical Points

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views
Flowering Plants

Rosa roxburghii (scientific name: Rosa roxburghii Tratt.) is a spreading shrub, 1-2.5 m tall; the bark is grayish brown, the branchlets are cylindrical, with paired prickles. The leaflets number 9-15, the leaf blades are elliptical or oblong; the flowers are solitary or in twos or threes, borne at the tips of short branches; the bracteoles number 2-3, ovate; the sepals are usually broadly ovate; the petals are double to semi-double, pale red or pink, slightly fragrant, obovate; the fruit is oblate, green-red; the flowering period is May-July, and the fruiting period is August-October.

Propagation Methods


Sowing

Collect seeds in September; they can be sown in autumn or stored in sand until spring sowing the following year; generally they germinate 20-25 days after sowing. Seeds can be used for raising seedlings, but because growing plants from seed is relatively difficult and survival is poor, it is generally not recommended to use seeds for propagation. In production, softwood cuttings from the current year's growth are mostly used for raising seedlings, as they root easily. Rare and valuable varieties are more difficult to root from cuttings.

Cuttings

This can be done in early spring or during the plum rain season. Cutting, also called striking cuttings, is a common propagation method for cultivating plants. Using softwood cuttings from the current year's growth to raise seedlings makes rooting easy. Choose branches that are vigorous and free of pests and diseases as cuttings. After selecting the cuttings, handle them carefully. Softwood cuttings should be inserted immediately after collection to prevent wilting from affecting survival. Generally, dipping the lower cut end of a cutting in some freshly burned plant ash helps prevent rot. For most plants, cuttings root fastest when kept at 20-25°C. If the temperature is too low, rooting is slow; if too high, the cut end of the cutting is prone to rot. Therefore, if temperature can be controlled artificially, cuttings can be taken in all four seasons. Under natural conditions, the temperatures of spring and autumn are suitable. After cutting, be sure to keep the cutting medium moist, but do not let it become too wet, otherwise rot will occur. At the same time, pay attention to air humidity; plastic film can be used to cover and maintain humidity, but be sure to ventilate within a certain period.


Cultivation Techniques


In cultivation, ensure sufficient fertilizer and water, and apply fertilizer once a month from early spring to early summer. Pay attention to proper thinning and removal of branches that bend and touch the ground, to facilitate ventilation and light penetration. During growth, the base and main trunk are prone to producing vigorous water sprouts, which in the second year can sprout short flowering branches and bloom and bear fruit.

Watering: For garden-planted roses, the main thing to note is to water thoroughly during summer drought, especially during the bud stage and flowering stage, when sufficient water must be guaranteed; at the same time, also note that water should not accumulate during the rainy season.

Fertilizing: In winter plowing, human manure or urine can be applied, or decomposed organic fertilizer can be spread on and then turned into the soil. Roses should be fertilized frequently during the growing season; after the flowers fade, apply 1-2 topdressings of quick-acting fertilizer. In high temperature and drought, apply light fertilizer; apply the last fertilization before the beginning of winter, and before fertilizing, also note to remove weeds in time. 

Pruning: Summer pruning of roses mainly involves cutting out the sprouting branches and flowers from the grafted rootstock; after flowering, cut off the spent flowers together with leaves and thin out excess flower buds, reducing nutrient consumption and creating good conditions for the next flowering period. To make the plant shape attractive, long branches can be cut back by 1/3 or half, and medium branches by 1/3, making a slanted cut 1 cm above a leaf; if pruning is too light, the rose plant will grow taller and taller, the branches longer and thinner, and the flowers smaller and smaller. Winter pruning depends on the variety and cultivation purpose; when pruning, keep branches and pay attention to the overall form of the rose plant. For large-flowered varieties, it is advisable to keep 4-6 branches, 30-45 cm long, select a strong side bud, and cut off the branch above it. For trailing or climbing varieties, the main approach is to thin out old branches, cut out weak and diseased branches, and train the main trunk.


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