Home › Growing Techniques › Article

Detailed Explanation of the Planting Methods and Technical Key Points for Round-Leaf Fountain Palm

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views
Trees

Round-leaf fountain palm, also known as kui tree, fan-leaf palm, kui bamboo and ironwood, is a plant of the genus Livistona in the palm family. It can reach 18-27 m in height, with a stem bearing prominent leaf-ring scars, a green palmate leaf blade, an inflorescence 1.5 m long, and spherical fruit 2-2.5 cm in diameter, red when ripe, later turning blackish brown. Round-leaf fountain palm likes a high-temperature, high-humidity tropical climate, prefers light and is slightly shade-tolerant. It likes moist, fertile clay loam rich in organic matter. Round-leaf fountain palm is native to Southeast Asia and is now widely planted in gardens in tropical and southern subtropical regions. Its inflorescence is red and beautiful, suitable for courtyard cultivation in frost-free areas, and it can also be grown in pots for ornamental purposes.

Planting Methods



(1) Repotting: It likes moist, fertile clay loam rich in organic matter.

(2) Light: It likes light and is also shade-tolerant. It dislikes intense direct sunlight, so from May to September shading should be provided, or it should be placed in a spot with ample diffused light, which can keep the leaves emerald green and glossy. If sunlight is too intense, the leaves become scorched and turn yellow. Young plants especially prefer a slightly shaded environment and should be protected from strong direct sunlight, otherwise the seedling survival rate will be affected. At other times, full light should be given.

(3) Temperature: It likes a warm climate, and the most suitable temperature for growth is 22-30°C. It is not cold-tolerant and stops growing below 15°C. It can endure low temperatures of about 4°C, and the overwintering temperature should be kept above 5°C. If exposed to cold wind, the leaf tips will turn brown.

Fountain palm has slightly stronger cold resistance; it can endure short-term low temperatures of about 0°C, but the overwintering temperature should be kept above 5°C as much as possible.

(4) Environmental humidity: It likes a moist environment, and during the growing season water should often be sprayed on the plant and around it to increase the relative air humidity, which helps the plant grow well. If the air is too dry, the leaf tips will turn brown.

(5) Watering: It likes a moist soil environment, and during the growing period water should be supplied fully to keep the potting soil moist. Avoid both excessive dryness and excessive moisture. If the potting soil is too dry, the leaf tips will turn brown and the plant may even wilt and yellow; if there is too much water, brown spots will appear on the leaves, and the roots may even rot. Watering should follow the principle of "do not water until dry, and water thoroughly when watering." During the plum rain season, accumulated water in the pot should be poured out promptly after rain; during high summer temperatures, water should be replenished promptly after the potting soil dries. In winter, watering should be controlled to keep the potting soil relatively dry, otherwise root rot is likely.

(6) Fertilizing: During the growing season, apply a nitrogen-based fertilizer once a month to keep the leaf color bright green. After autumn begins, stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and apply phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, which can improve the plant's cold resistance. Stop fertilizing in winter.

(7) Pest and disease control: It is harmed by black spot, leaf spot, smut, red spider mites, scale insects and other pests and diseases.


Transplanting and field planting: In the spring of the second year after sowing, thin the seedlings and transplant, keeping 1 plant per square chi (at most 2). In the spring of the fourth year, keep 1 plant per 2 square chi, and transplant all the rest elsewhere. At transplanting time there are very few fibrous roots, so when lifting the seedlings, try to protect the main root to avoid breaking it. In the spring of the fifth year, the trunk has already formed, and the main root has also formed many fibrous roots. When lifting the seedlings for field planting, they must be moved with soil, and the fibrous roots should be retained as much as possible to ensure survival. The planting hole is 1 cubic m deep, filled with household garbage or other base fertilizer, accounting for about 2/3 of the hole, then covered with soil before planting the tree. After field planting, water thoroughly (one bucket per hole, reduced as appropriate afterward). When transplanting or field planting, do not cut the leaves, so as not to affect the tree shape, and after survival it grows quickly. If the weather is sunny, use artificial spraying to prevent the leaves from wilting. If the leaves are normal on sunny days, there is no need to water or spray again.
Peeling the brown fiber and removing leaves: The time for peeling brown fiber and removing leaves is in the months of transplanting and field planting. This is because during this period the plants have been trained from a young age by sowing, transplanting and field planting, which can prevent death from injury caused by peeling the brown fiber (bracts). The first peeling of brown fiber should be carried out 5 years after field planting, so that the formed trunk is thick and strong; peeling too early easily causes the trunk to be large at the top and small at the bottom. Each time brown fiber is peeled, the leaves of the third year must be left unpeeled. If too few are left, the heart is damaged and the plant will certainly die. If the brown fiber is not peeled, promptly cut off the withered and yellow leaves close to the bracts, so that the plant shows a verdant tropical scene and southern scenery all year round.


Related Articles