Home › Growing Techniques › Article

Schisandra Planting Methods and Key Technical Points

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views

Schisandra is the dried ripe fruit of the Magnoliaceae plant Schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baill. or Schisandra sphenanthera Rehd. et Wils. The former is commonly called "North Schisandra", and the latter is commonly called "South Schisandra".

Propagation Methods

Wild Schisandra reproduces not only by seed but mainly by underground creeping stems. In artificial cultivation, many people have carried out research on cuttings, layering and seed propagation. The results show that although cuttings and layering can also take root and develop into plants, rooting is difficult, and the conditions required during treatment are not easy to control, so neither is as good as seed propagation. The seed propagation method is simple and easy to carry out, and a large number of seedlings can be obtained in a short time.
Seed Selection Methods
Seed selection: Schisandra seeds are best selected from the fruit clusters during the autumn harvest, keeping fruit clusters with large, uniform berries for seed use, and drying and storing them separately. When drying, never roast over fire, bake on a heated brick bed, or fry in a pan. They can be sun-dried or shade-dried and stored in a ventilated, dry place.
Seed Treatment
(1) Outdoor treatment: Before freezing, soak the fruits selected for seed use in clean water until the flesh swells, then rub off the flesh. Schisandra has many shriveled seeds. The seed yield is about 60%. While rubbing off the flesh, the shriveled seeds floating on the water surface can be removed. After rubbing off the flesh, soak the seeds again in clean water for 5-7 days so that the seeds fully absorb water, changing the water every two days; when changing the water, some shriveled seeds can also be removed. After soaking, scoop them out, drain them, and mix them evenly with wet sand 2-3 times the volume of the seeds. Put them into a pit about 0.5 m deep prepared outdoors, cover with 10-15 cm of fine soil, then cover with firewood, grass or a straw curtain for low-temperature treatment. In May-June of the following year, they can be sown once they have cracked open.
(2) Indoor treatment: In late February, move the seeds indoors, remove the flesh, mix with wet sand, and place them in a wooden box for sand storage treatment. The temperature can be kept between 5°C-15°C, and in the following spring they can be sown once they have cracked open.

Sowing and Raising Seedlings

1. Selection of the seedling field. For the seedling field, fertile humus soil or sandy loam can be chosen, and old ginseng land can also be used. For raising seedlings, raised beds are better. Beds can be made according to different soil conditions. For low-lying, easily waterlogged plots with abundant rain, high beds can be made, with a bed height of about 15 cm. For high, dry plots with less rain, flat beds can be made. No matter which kind of bed is used, there must be more than 15 cm of loose soil layer. The bed width is 1.2 m, and the length depends on the terrain. The bed soil should be raked fine and impurities removed. Apply 5-10 kg of decomposed barnyard manure per square meter, mix thoroughly and evenly with the bed soil, rake the bed surface smooth, and then sow.
2. Sowing period and method. Generally, sow the treated seeds from early May to mid-June, in drills or broadcast. For drilling, the row spacing is 10 cm, and the soil cover is 1.5-3 cm. The sowing rate is about 30 g per square meter. It can also be sown from early August to early September with fresh seeds of the same year, that is, select berries of uniform ripeness, large and plump, rub off the flesh, rinse briefly with clean water, drain, and then sow.
3. Seedling field management. After sowing, set up a shed frame 1-1.5 m high, cover it with straw curtains or reed curtains for shade, and water when the soil is dry so that the soil moisture remains at 30%-40%. When the seedlings grow 2-3 true leaves, the shade curtains can be removed. Also, frequently [weed and] keep [the field] clean, and in the following spring they can be transplanted and planted out.

Field Management

1. Irrigation and fertilization
Schisandra likes fertilizer, and during the growing period it needs sufficient water and nutrients. After planting and survival, water frequently to keep the soil moist, and irrigate once before freezing to facilitate overwintering. During the bud, flowering and fruiting stages, in addition to sufficient water, a large amount of nutrients is also needed. Apply topdressing 1-2 times each year, the first during the leaf expansion stage and the second after flowering. Generally, 5-10 kg of decomposed farmyard manure can be applied per plant. For the topdressing method, open a ring-shaped ditch 15-20 cm deep around a distance of 30-50 cm from the root, apply the fertilizer, and then cover with soil. Do not damage the root system when opening the ditch.
2. Pruning
Schisandra branches can be pruned in all three seasons: spring, summer and autumn.
(1) Spring pruning is generally carried out before the branches sprout. Cut off overly dense fruiting branches and dead branches; after pruning, the branches should be moderately sparse and not interfere with one another.
(2) Summer pruning is generally carried out from early to mid-May to early to mid-August. Mainly cut off basal branches, inner branches, overlapping branches, diseased and insect-damaged branches, etc. At the same time, newly grown branches that are too dense also need to be thinned or short-cut. If summer pruning is done well, autumn pruning can be light or omitted.
(3) Autumn pruning is carried out after leaf fall. Mainly cut off the basal branches that grew after summer pruning. Also promptly apply a wound-healing antiseptic film to the pruning wounds to promote wound healing and prevent invasion and infection by pathogens.
Whenever pruning is done, 2-3 nutrient branches should be selected and retained as main branches, and the vines should be trained onto the trellis. Spray with Culflower King No. 3 to greatly promote flower bud differentiation, improve flowering and fruit set rates, inhibit excessive shoot growth, and thoroughly balance alternate bearing. Trellising: After transplanting, a trellis should be set up in the second year. Cement posts or angle steel can be used as uprights, and wooden poles or No. 8 iron wire can be used to stretch a horizontal line at the upper part of the uprights. At each main vine, set up a bamboo pole or wooden pole 2.5-3 m high and 1.5-5 cm in diameter, fix it to the horizontal line with tying wire, and then train the vines onto the trellis. At first, strong tying can be used, and afterward they will naturally twine onto the trellis. 
3. Thickening
Fruit stalk: For Schisandra, during the flower bud stage, young fruit stage and fruit expansion stage, spray Zhuangguodiling to thicken the fruit stalk, increase the amount of nutrient transport, prevent flower drop, improve pollination capacity, increase the fruit set rate, speed up the expansion rate, and ensure high quality and high yield.
4. Loosening soil and weeding
During the growth period of Schisandra, loosen the soil and weed in time, and keep the soil loose and free of weeds. When loosening the soil, avoid injuring the root system. Make a tree basin at the base of the Schisandra to facilitate irrigation.
5. Hilling
Before winter, hill up soil at the base of the Schisandra, which can protect the Schisandra for safe overwintering.


Related Articles