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Detailed Guide to Red Rose Planting Methods and Care Techniques

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views
Flowering Plants

Red rose, a shrub of the genus Rosa in the family Rosaceae, can reach up to 2 m in height; the branchlets are hairless and cylindrical, usually thornless or with sparse small prickles. The leaflets are ovate or ovate-lanceolate, with pointed tips, nearly rounded or broadly wedge-shaped bases, and sharply single-serrated edges, dark green above and grayish green beneath; the leaf rachis bears soft hairs and sparse small prickles; the stipules are broad, with the free portion ear-shaped and ovate; the flowers are solitary, rarely 2, with broad ovate-lanceolate bracts; the pedicels are hairless or have sparse glandular hairs; the flower diameter can reach cm; the sepals are ovate-lanceolate, and the petals are red and obovate; the styles are free, and the fruit is ovoid and bright red. It blooms in June and fruits from July to October.

Growth habits: It likes sunlight and is not shade-tolerant, has strong cold resistance, and is not demanding about soil. It is drought-tolerant, moisture-tolerant, and barren-tolerant, and grows even better in deep, fertile, moist, and well-drained soil.

Propagation methods

Cuttage

Cutting selection: For the cuttings, choose healthy, pest- and disease-free semi-lignified branches of the current year, cut them to 10-15 cm, with 2-3 nodes, keep 2-4 small leaves at the top of the cutting, and cut away 1/3 of large leaves. Cut the upper end 1 cm from the bud into a flat opening, and cut the lower end into a slanted opening. The substrate can use fine furnace ash slag or clean river sand. The bottom layer of the cutting bed should be paved with crushed stone to increase air permeability and water permeability. Before cutting, the cutting bed can be sprayed with 0.5% potassium permanganate solution for thorough disinfection, then rinsed with clean water.

Cuttage is generally carried out in early summer. The cutting depth is 5-7 cm, and the plant-row spacing is 5 cm x 8 cm. For slanting insertion, use a thin wooden stick to make a hole first, so as to prevent the cutting from being injured when inserted and affecting rooting. After cutting, spray water on the leaf surface of the cuttings in time to keep the substrate moist and prevent wilting. Generally, spray water 2-3 times a day; as the temperature rises, the number of water sprays should increase accordingly. The ground moisture is generally controlled at 20-25°C, and the humidity at 85-90%. Before the cuttings root, they need to be covered with a shade net during the day. After 25 days, most cuttings begin to root.

Sowing

Seed propagation can use spring sowing or autumn sowing, and spring sowing is often used. Seed collection and extraction: Fruit harvesting is generally carried out from October to November. After harvesting, store them under low-temperature refrigeration to prepare for spring sowing the following year. Seed extraction is generally carried out before sowing, and can be done by manual separation, then the seeds are rinsed with clean water and air-dried indoors. Once the seeds are dry, they can be sown.
Sowing: Sowing is generally carried out from March to April. After sowing, cover with plastic film or set up a small plastic tunnel on the sowing bed. After 8-10 days, the seedlings can emerge. If covered with plastic film, remove the film promptly after most seedlings emerge to prevent seedling scorching, and at the same time irrigate for the first time, with a slow, fine stream. Prevent silt from burying and pressing the seedlings. After that, irrigate once every 10 days. When the seedlings grow their first pair of true leaves, irrigate once every 15 days. At the same time, pay attention to loosening the soil and weeding. When the seedlings grow to 5-6 cm high, thinning and final spacing can be carried out once.


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