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Detailed Explanation of Sapodilla Planting Methods and Technical Points

Growing Techniques By Emily Carter 0 views

Sapodilla (scientific name: Manilkara zapota  (Linn.) van Royen), a tree, 15-20 m tall, branchlets tea-brown, with obvious leaf scars. Leaves alternate, densely clustered at the branch tips, leathery, oblong or ovate-elliptic; petiole 1.5-3 cm long. Flowers 1-2, borne at the leaf axils at the branch tips; pedicel 2-2.5 cm long, densely covered with yellow-brown or rust-colored tomentum; outer whorl of 3 sepals oblong-ovate; corolla white, apex with irregular fine teeth; fertile stamens inserted at the throat of the corolla tube, filaments thread-like, anthers oblong-ovate; staminodes petal-like; ovary conical; style cylindrical, slightly thickened at the base.

Cultivation techniques for sapodilla

1. First is propagation. In the past, the seed sowing method was used, and the results were not very good. Now it has been changed to air layering propagation, which can increase yield. Recently, grafting has also appeared, with even better economic returns.

2. For planting, a hole needs to be dug next to the sapodilla seedling, a post set up, and a planting pit dug nearby. Fertilizer should be added into the planting pit to benefit its growth.

3. Pruning: during its growth process it will grow many spreading branches. At the appropriate time we should cut off its small branches and keep the large-diameter ones.

4. Fertilization: fertilizer should be applied about twice each year. The first time is around March, and the second time can be arranged around September.

5. At harvest time, the crop can be harvested in 2 to 3 batches. The fully grown fruit can be ripened by artificial means and sold for a good price.

In suitable areas, sapodilla should be planted in orchards on hills, slopes or flat land that faces the sun and backs to the north, with deep soil, no water accumulation, little cold air, and shelter from wind. If used as a street tree in towns and a greening tree in urban and rural areas, it should be planted in places with relatively light cold damage, and it can also be planted in front of and behind houses in villages. The most suitable planting time is April-May. Dig planting holes 60 cm long, wide and deep, apply sufficient organic fertilizer, together with phosphate fertilizer, with a plant-row spacing of 5 cm-6 cm. After planting, water thoroughly to settle the roots, cover appropriately with rice straw, keep the soil moist, and avoid soil compaction. Young trees can be intercropped with short-term crops to improve the soil. Carry out timely cultivating and weeding; where conditions permit, expand the holes and press in green material to promote root growth. Young trees are mainly in vegetative growth, so quick-acting fertilizer should be applied before each flush to expand the canopy. Bearing trees should be given mainly organic fertilizer, with one additional application of phosphate and potassium fertilizer after fruit harvest, and one topdressing each in spring and autumn, to improve fruit quality. Young trees should have their tops cut to encourage side branch growth. In winter, together with orchard cleaning, prune diseased, insect-damaged and dead branches. Under normal circumstances, sapodilla fruit should be thinned; if there is indeed too much, it can be appropriately thinned to ensure high and stable yields.

When the fruit ripens in September-October, peel off the flesh, take out the seeds and dry them in the shade, keeping them for spring sowing the following year. Layering should be carried out in spring when the temperature rises above 20°C. On 1-2 year old branches, make a girdle 3-4 cm wide, then wrap with fertile soil composted with rice straw, and keep the soil ball moist at all times; new roots can form in about 2 months. Sufficient base fertilizer should be applied at planting. Attention should be paid to preventing scale insects. Fruit can be produced 4-5 years after planting.

Sapodilla planting methods and techniques

1. When fertilizing, the choice of fertilizer is very important, and the amount applied is also very important. This you must grasp yourself.

2. Be sure to prune the branches; this is to prepare for the sapodilla to bear fruit.

3. At harvest time, chemicals can be used for ripening treatment, so the color will be a bit better and the price higher.

Ecological habits of sapodilla

It likes high temperatures and fertile sandy loam, and has strong adaptability. Large trees can still overwinter safely at -2--3°C, and can also grow and develop normally in lower-fertility clay soil.

Sapodilla can flower and bear fruit normally at -31°C, young fruit suffers freeze damage at 1°C, large trees are prone to freeze damage at 4.5°C, and suffer cold damage at 2.2°C. If grown as an economic crop, it should be developed in areas with relatively high temperatures. Sapodilla requires sufficient moisture; with annual rainfall above 1300 mm, it grows better. Its root system is deep, and it is very drought-tolerant, relatively tolerant of poor soil and salinity. The tree is tall, the leaves are relatively large, and the branches are brittle and break easily. Therefore, orchards should not be established in wind gaps or places with severe wind damage.


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