How to use pesticides to prevent fungus gnats in edible fungi?

How pesticides prevent fungus gnats from appearing in edible fungi.

How pesticides prevent fungus gnats from appearing in edible fungi.

In the fruiting bodies and mycelium of many edible fungi, such as oyster mushrooms, button mushrooms and enoki mushrooms, there are many maggot-shaped larvae that harm their growth; these maggot-shaped larvae are collectively called "fungus gnats". Four species are relatively common, namely mushroom gnats, gall midges, mushroom flies and dung flies. Their larvae - maggots - look much the same in morphology to the naked eye, and among the adults only the gnats and flies show obvious differences. The morphology and even the living habits of gall midges, mushroom flies and dung flies are very similar, so they are often mistaken for a single species and are all called "fungus flies". Fungus gnats mainly come from cow dung or pig dung; when cow dung and pig dung are collected and spread out to dry in summer and autumn, flies crawl on them and lay eggs. When these materials are piled for fermentation, the eggs in them are not all killed, and so they are carried into the mushroom house along with the compost.

1. When there are no fruiting bodies growing on the mushroom bed, spray with a 1000-fold dilution of trichlorfon, which can kill adults and larvae exposed on the surface of the soil layer. Spray once every 2 days, for 3-4 consecutive sprayings.

2. Adults are phototactic, so black light lamps can be used to trap and kill them.

3. When piling the compost, raise the pile temperature as much as possible, and when turning the pile, spray while turning the material. After rebuilding the pile, cover it tightly with plastic film, leave it sealed for 2 days and then uncover it; this can kill most of the insects and eggs in the pile.

4. Use some homemade pesticides, such as tobacco stalks, tomato stems and leaves, eucalyptus leaves, neem leaves, sweet wormwood and castor leaves, mixed into the composting material for piling; this can kill the larvae or reduce larval breeding.

5. Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus moritalis and Beauveria bassiana all have very good effects on controlling fly larvae. Bacillus has a strong pathogenicity to flies and insects, can kill larvae and pupae, and is harmless to humans and livestock. When livestock eat feed containing Bacillus, the dung they excrete also carries the bacteria, so fly larvae cannot breed.

6. The compost must undergo "secondary fermentation".

1. When there are no fruiting bodies growing on the mushroom bed, spray with a 1000-fold dilution of trichlorfon, which can kill adults and larvae exposed on the surface of the soil layer. Spray once every 2 days, for 3-4 consecutive sprayings.

2. Adults are phototactic, so black light lamps can be used to trap and kill them.

3. When piling the compost, raise the pile temperature as much as possible, and when turning the pile, spray while turning the material. After rebuilding the pile, cover it tightly with plastic film, leave it sealed for 2 days and then uncover it; this can kill most of the insects and eggs in the pile.

4. Use some homemade pesticides, such as tobacco stalks, tomato stems and leaves, eucalyptus leaves, neem leaves, sweet wormwood and castor leaves, mixed into the composting material for piling; this can kill the larvae or reduce larval breeding.

5. Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus moritalis and Beauveria bassiana all have very good effects on controlling fly larvae. Bacillus has a strong pathogenicity to flies and insects, can kill larvae and pupae, and is harmless to humans and livestock. When livestock eat feed containing Bacillus, the dung they excrete also carries the bacteria, so fly larvae cannot breed.

6. The compost must undergo "secondary fermentation".