What are the pruning methods for ginkgo bonsai?

Pruning is one of the main techniques in creating ginkgo bonsai. Its purpose is to highlight the trunk, fill out the ornamental branches, express various different artistic conceptions, and enhance artistic value, making it naturally quaint, elegant and understated. The principle of pruning is to cut away surplus side branches, parallel branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches, leggy branches and diseased or dead branches.

There are three basic pruning methods, namely short pruning, thinning pruning and reduction pruning. Short pruning means cutting a branch shorter, stimulating the lateral buds below the cut to sprout and form stronger side branches, while also tending to cluster, which is convenient for styling; after cutting, secondary buds often sprout, increasing the number of branching orders. Pruning the trunk is done to control the height of the tree and encourage the development of side branches. Short pruning of side branches is done to encourage latent buds to sprout. Thinning pruning means cutting a branch away from its base.

The main targets are dead branches, pest- and disease-damaged branches, and surplus and overly dense branches unsuitable for styling, so that the remaining branches receive sufficient nutrients and grow vigorously. Reduction pruning means cutting away part of a branch. It can reduce the size of root-sucker seedlings or seedling-grown plants, which helps them survive; it can also encourage new branches to sprout, restoring the vigour of an aged stump.

The purpose of pruning is to highlight the trunk, fill out the ornamental branches and enhance artistic value. The principle of pruning is to cut away surplus side branches, parallel branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches, leggy branches and diseased or dead branches.

The first year is the foundation for developing the stump. In summer, vigorous branches grow quickly, so reduction pruning can be done on two branches. Secondary branches produced after the stimulus of pruning should be cut away promptly. New branches produced in late summer and early autumn can be retained. After leaf fall in winter and before bud break the following year, surplus branches such as whorled branches, crossing branches and overly long branches should all be cut away. Sucker shoots growing from the base of the stump must be cut away promptly.

The second year is for wrapping wire and splitting the trunk to create scars. When wrapping, prevent branches and trunk from breaking or tearing apart; if the base of the trunk is relatively hard, when bending it for styling, hemp rope or plastic tape should be wrapped spirally from the base of the trunk to prevent tearing during bending. An axe can also be used to split the middle and lower part of the trunk, deep to the pith, which further enhances the steep and majestic feel of the bonsai.

In the third year, when the trunk is thick, the plant is tall, the crown is large and the roots are deep, a larger pot must be used, filled with plenty of fertile soil, and at the same time the crown-building technique should be done well. The method is: cut a rounded ring along the trunk, then spread the side branches out in all directions.

In the fourth year the branches gradually increase and the plant's shape tends to stabilise, so it can be planted in its display pot, then further shaped and refined; according to the original design plan, create a bonsai of a thousand postures and varied expressions