How to graft potted camellias? Grafting method step-by-step illustrated guide

Camellias are a tree species that is relatively difficult to graft successfully. To improve the grafting survival rate, on one hand you need to master grafting techniques, and on the other hand you must use some special grafting methods. Select scions according to the variety resources available, and then make a reasonable combination based on the operator's personal preferences, so that the grafted camellia can achieve the expected results.

Scions should be selected from superior clones and from branches on the middle and upper outer part of the canopy. For camellias, choose branches from the desired variety that are robust, have plump axillary buds, normal leaf color, and no pests or diseases. In summer, use the current year's spring shoots; in autumn, use the current year's spring shoots or summer shoots as scions. Collect them in the early morning and place them in a basin or cup filled with water to prevent dehydration and drying out. It is best to graft immediately after collecting the scions; avoid taking shaded branches, old branches, and pest- or disease-infested branches.

I only started working with camellias last year, which is also when I began grafting camellias myself. The grafting method I use was copied directly from masters in Jinhua, Zhejiang, and even my grafting knife was bought from them or given by friends. The purpose of today's post is to throw out a brick to attract jade, to discuss everyone's grafting methods and techniques together, so we can learn from each other and improve together.

This is the grafting knife. It is ground from a hacksaw blade. Friends who have not seen one before may find its shape a bit strange, but in fact every curve and every blade angle is designed with mechanics in mind, making it convenient and practical. Hehe, I won't say much more on this topic, or you will say I am selling knives! I believe friends will understand its rationality when they have the chance to use it in practice.

1. Sawing the rootstock

No matter what is used as a rootstock for camellia grafting, it must retain strong vitality. This can be judged from the rootstock's fresh cut surface: the cut surface should be moist and fresh, with no black heart and no rust spots. Experienced masters can judge from the color, dryness/wetness, and feel of the sawdust when sawing, without making a test cut.

This is the cut surface after sawing. You can see it has a kind of glistening, watery look. Figures 2 and 3: there were some problems with the cut surface, so it was sawed again. In addition, when initially cutting the stump, if the saw cut healed very well during maintenance, it can be grafted directly.

2. Cutting the leaves

Although camellia leaves are relatively stiff, without a sharp knife and the right method they always tear. What you actually need to master here is to make the blade edge nearly parallel to the leaf, then pull-cut with the blade edge. Do not cut directly with the blade edge crossing the leaf surface at a right angle. After each leaf is trimmed, you can cut the scion.

3. Cutting the scion

First cut: start the blade from one side of the scion leaf, making the lower part of the leaf thick and the opposite side without a leaf thin. Pull horizontally downward like trimming a leaf to cut a slope. It should be smooth and done in one continuous motion.

For the second cut, turn the scion over and start the blade on the back side of the first cut, cutting it into a wedge shape.

The third cut removes the phloem from the branch on the side opposite the leaf, exposing the cambium so that later healing will be stronger.

The fourth cut removes rough edges to make it easier to insert the scion into the rootstock incision, and also to promote faster healing later.

After the scion is cut, hold the branch and the scion leaf with your left hand, hold the knife in your right hand, and cut off the scion with a horizontal pull at 5 mm above the scion's bud point. This requires good control of force and insertion depth, otherwise it may be too light and too short to cut through, or it may cut off the bud and petiole.

4. Rootstock incision:

Cut vertically down along the rootstock trunk. The height of the blade opening depends on the length of the scion. The upper blade opening (near the cut surface) cuts inward, taking a little xylem. The incision forms an inverted right triangle. It should be smooth.

As for how much xylem to cut into the incision, generally it is best that after inserting the blade and letting go, the grafting knife does not fall out. Of course, you must not cut too far into the xylem, as that will crush the semi-lignified scion. Not only does it waste effort and increase the risk of the blade slipping, it also makes inserting the scion more difficult.

For bonsai, or other situations where a branch needs to be added on the middle trunk of the rootstock, use the side graft method:

Then wrap the incision with tape to secure the scion, cover with a bag to retain moisture, and so on.

In fact, whether grafting succeeds or not, the grafting method accounts for only a very small proportion. The key is the vitality of the rootstock, the vigor of the scion, and the grafting environment and maintenance level.