Detailed Explanation of Plum Blossom Propagation Methods and Technical Key Points

Artistic Conception Beauty: The ancients said that “plum blossoms win by charm and rank high by character,” which means that plum blossom bonsai must have an artistic conception. Mr. Zhou Shoujuan loved plum blossoms all his life, and when making plum blossom bonsai, he paid great attention to creating an artistic conception. A bonsai he created during his lifetime, "Lonely Mountain Releasing Crane Picture," made viewers involuntarily feel deep respect for the Song Dynasty poet Lin Bu, who kept himself pure and self-disciplined. Another of his bonsai works, "Plum and Moon Picture," naturally made people think of the poetic line “Sparse shadows slant across the clear shallow water, and hidden fragrance floats in the yellow dusk of the moon.”

The beautiful and subtle artistic conception of plum blossom bonsai can also be brought out with a finishing touch through titles, increasing the charm of the work. Because the cultural connotations of plum blossoms are very rich, the themes available for conceiving titles for plum blossom bonsai are also quite broad. Plum blossom bonsai is an artistic concentration of the spiritual charm and noble character of plum blossoms in nature. It follows nature and surpasses nature's workmanship, making it a rare fine artistic product. So, how are plum blossoms propagated? Below are several common plum blossom propagation methods or techniques for everyone.

There are many methods for propagating plum blossoms. The commonly used methods are introduced below:

1. Grafting propagation

Grafting is the most commonly used method for propagating plum blossoms, with an extremely high survival rate. The rootstock can be seedlings of peach (wild peach, mountain peach), apricot, and plum, or the roots of peach and apricot. 1. Spring grafting. Before germination in early spring, cut grafting and bark grafting can be used (for larger rootstocks), and bud grafting (including long-chip small-bud side grafting) and cleft grafting can also be used.

1) Summer grafting

After the first new shoots mature and before the second new shoots sprout, carry out cleft grafting with leafy scions. Cleft grafting is suitable for grafting multiple varieties or changing the crown on high branches, but bags must be applied to keep moisture and provide shade.

2) Autumn grafting

In winter, side grafting should be used, preferably fully enclosed side grafting with long-chip small buds. This method is simple to operate, heals well, has a high survival rate, and is not easily broken by wind. If it does not sprout that year, then when the sap begins to flow in the following spring, lightly prick a small hole at the bud eye, and the bud can sprout.

3) Winter grafting

Using the root grafting method in winter has very good results. The method is: during the winter dormant period, carefully dig out healthy new roots of peach, apricot, or wild peach without pests or diseases (1 cm in diameter or larger), retain as many fibrous roots as possible, then cut them into 10-15 cm long sections for later use. For thick ones, use cut grafting and bark grafting; for thin ones (about 1 cm in diameter), use cleft grafting. After grafting, plant them in sandy loam that is sheltered from the wind, faces the sun, and does not accumulate water. Cover the binding area with soil and water thoroughly. Winter management is extensive, and they can sprout in the following spring. Grafted plants sprout early and grow quickly with this method. New grafted plants bloom after 1-2 years.

2. Cutting propagation

Propagating plum blossoms by cuttings is simple to operate. For plum blossom cuttings, November is the best time. After the cuttings are treated by soaking, the survival rate increases somewhat, and it can also promote rooting in varieties that are difficult to root. Select vigorous one-year-old branches 10 cm to 12 cm long as cuttings. When cutting, bury most of the branch in the soil, leaving only two or three cm above the soil surface, and leave one bud exposed. The cutting site should have loose soil and good drainage. After cutting, water thoroughly once and cover with plastic film. This can maintain temperature and humidity in a small area and improve the cutting survival rate. After surviving in the following year, gradually provide ventilation so they adapt to the environment, and finally remove the film. In the third spring, they can be planted out at fixed spacing.

3. Layering propagation

In February to March, select vigorous 1-3 year old growing branches, dig a deep trench beside the mother plant, make 3 shallow cuts below the bend of the branch, then cover with soil and press a brick on top. After rooting, cut them away from the mother plant. For air layering, in the plum rain season, select suitable branches on the mother tree, slightly notch them, wrap some mixed soil with plastic film, tie both ends tightly, and maintain temperature. Check after 1 month. Those that have rooted can be cut at a notch below the layer, reaching as deep as the middle. After another 20-40 days, cut them completely away from the mother plant and move them to the field for cultivation.

3. Seed propagation

Use fruit stones for direct sowing. It must be noted that fully mature fruits should be collected from superior mother plants with large fruit and small stones. Generally, autumn sowing is better, and the specific time can be in late September. Water sufficiently and cover with fine soil or sand. In the following spring, when the seedlings grow to 10 cm to 15 cm, they can be transplanted from the seedbed. If propagating by sowing in spring, then after the seeds are washed clean and dried, they should be stratified and stored in moist sand, taken out in early spring, and sown in rows. Plum trees propagated from seed are drought tolerant. They have vigorous growth and are suitable for planting on hillsides. However, plum trees grown by this method have unstable heredity and great variation.