Detailed Guide to Propagating Yew by Cuttings, Beginners Can Learn It Too

  In the process of propagating yew seedlings, besides using the sowing method, cutting propagation can also be used. Compared with propagation by sowing, the cutting method usually takes less time to produce seedlings, so this method is also very suitable for home potted plant growers. And apart from the advantage of fast seedling emergence, cutting propagation also flowers and fruits earlier and produces more diverse plant shapes, which offers more choices for bonsai styling. Today, the editor will share with you the cutting propagation method for yew.

  Yew cutting propagation can be done in a seedbed, a propagation box, or even a flower pot. For potted plant growers, cuttings can generally be taken directly in a flower pot. But the chosen flower pot should be of a suitable size, generally with a diameter of about 16 cm, and the preparation of the growing medium should not be careless either; river sand and leaf mold can be mixed in equal halves. After the preparation work is completed, we can proceed with yew cutting propagation.

  1. Cutting time

  Yew cutting propagation is mostly carried out in spring, but late May is often best, especially in northern regions, because the temperature warms up relatively slowly, and yew cutting propagation needs to be carried out in a warm environment. Therefore, it is generally carried out in late spring and early summer, and the survival results are often better. But for the vast southern regions of our country, it can also be appropriately advanced according to local temperature conditions; after all, in the south, late May is often already very hot, and cuttings in a hot, humid, and poorly ventilated environment are prone to basal rot.

  1. Selecting branches

  For yew cuttings, generally 1-3 year old branches that have already become lignified are selected as cuttings, but usually 1-2 year old cuttings root more easily. You can cut either the main branch or side branches, or even the middle branch removed during pinching. But note that perennial branches that have lignified to a reddish-brown color are not suitable for cuttings, because even if they can survive as cuttings, the rooting effect is very poor, and poor development will also appear later.

  2. Making cuttings

  After selecting branches suitable for cuttings, we can cut them off to make cuttings. Original cuttings are best taken from one-year-old branches, with a length of about 8-10 cm; if two-year-old branches are used as cuttings, the length should generally be kept at 10-15 cm, because if the cuttings are too short, it often affects the seedling emergence time. Next, remove the leaves within about 3 cm of the end of the cutting used for insertion, and soak the base in a Huanongchunlu solution.

  3. Cutting method

  In spring and summer, insert the prepared cuttings directly into the substrate, taking care to control the insertion depth at about 1/3 of the cutting, which is more appropriate. If using a propagation box or a small flower pot, generally insert one cutting per box or pot. Be careful during operation; if the growing medium is relatively dry, do not force the cutting into the substrate, otherwise it may damage the cutting and thereby affect survival. However, moist soil is generally used for cuttings, but attention still needs to be paid to handling details. If you are not at ease, you can first use a tool to poke a hole in the substrate, then insert the cutting into it and firm the soil around the cutting.

  4. Watering to settle the roots

  After all cuttings have been inserted into the growing medium, it is usually necessary to water thoroughly once in time as settling water, and then place them in a shady spot for care. But after watering, observe whether the bottom of the propagation box or small flower pot is too wet or has standing water. Because cuttings cannot be soaked in high humidity or water, otherwise it easily causes basal rot, ultimately leading to cutting failure. And after cuttings are inserted and settling water is applied, generally do not rush to water again; if the leaves on the cuttings are found to become dry and wilted, you can spray water to maintain humidity, while also paying attention to shading.

  5. Care and management

  Generally after 3-5 days, we need to water appropriately to maintain humidity in the substrate, thereby promoting sprouting of the cuttings, but at the same time we must also do a good job of shading and ventilation. When watering, do not use flushing or pouring, otherwise it is very easy to wash the cuttings out of the substrate, or at least affect the tightness of contact between their bases and the soil. Generally after cuttings are inserted, keep spraying water 2 times a day until it is reduced to 1 time after 2 weeks, and during this period it is recommended to soak once with a small amount of water every 3-4 days.

  Of course, if plastic film is used to maintain humidity during the cutting period, when daytime temperatures rise for several consecutive days, regularly uncover the film and spray water to maintain humidity and lower temperature, and at the same time ventilation can also be achieved. And when most of the cuttings have rooted, promptly strengthen ventilation to harden the seedlings, which can be done for about 2 hours a day. Until late August, we can remove the film and continue cultivation.