A collection of tree-stump and rock-clinging bonsai: admire the sculptural art of mountain stones and tree stumps

  Generally, stump bonsai are made by planting the tree stump directly into the potting soil, which makes them relatively easy to create and maintain.

  But if the tree stump looks as though it were born and grown on rock, that is the uniquely charming rock-clinging style of stump bonsai.

  There are many kinds of ornamental stones, but mountain stones that are hard in texture and do not absorb water are generally not used, otherwise they are not only difficult to work with, but even if made, they are hard to maintain.

  Therefore, to make rock-clinging stump bonsai, you must choose soft mountain stones that readily absorb water, such as sand-accumulated stone, reed-pipe stone, pumice, and so on. There are two specific methods.

  One is to carve a cavity from the waist or top of the mountain stone toward its inner core; when carving, try to make the opening small and the belly large, like a bottle, then slowly put in the cultivation soil.

  At the same time, put in the tree stump's fibrous roots and keep stirring them so the stump roots do not curl up, and make the roots and soil fit closely together.

  It is best to slightly modify the outer shape of the mountain stone and level off its bottom.

  At this point it can be placed in a shallow basin filled with water, and a water rock-clinging bonsai with mountain, water, and a tree stump extending from the rock is complete.

  If making a dry rock-clinging bonsai, then the basin is filled with soil rather than water, and the mountain stone can be pierced through from top to bottom so the tree stump passes through the stone hole, with part of the tree roots growing in the soil within the stone hole.

  Most of the roots still develop and grow in the potting soil, and from the outside it looks as though the tree stump grew right out of the stone.

  The other method is to carve several to a dozen or more grooves on each side of the mountain stone; the grooves may run straight or slanted, with fairly even spacing, and the depth and width of the grooves should be determined by the thickness of the tree roots.

  After the grooves are carved in the mountain stone, soak it in water for several days.

  Then embed the tree stump's lateral roots one by one into the grooves of the mountain stone, temporarily securing them with adhesive tape as you go.

  After the tree roots are fully embedded in the grooves, wrap several turns of thin galvanized wire around the outside for final fixation, and remove the adhesive tape.

  Next, seal and coat the tree roots together with the mountain stone using river mud or a thick slurry, then wrap the outside with green moss.

  The fine root portions at the ends of the roots must still be straightened out and planted in the potting soil; afterward they need frequent misting and appropriate shading, and after about 1 year of careful maintenance the outer wrapping of green moss can be removed.

  After another 1 year of maintenance, the river mud on the surface of the stone roots is gradually washed clean by watering and rain. By this time the tree roots have already clung tightly to the mountain stone, and the original fixing copper wire can also be removed. As the tree stump grows and adapts, the tree roots gradually thicken as well.

  Although the main absorbing portion of the root system grows in the potting soil, the tree roots grip and embrace the mountain stone tightly like dragon claws and grow tenaciously, full of power, with beautiful form and deep meaning.