What are the methods and precautions for collecting bonsai trees in the wild?

  The classification of tree-stump bonsai should include wild-collected stumps and nursery-grown seedlings. The former refers to bonsai made from wild-collected stumps, whose main characteristic is aged and antique simplicity; the latter refers to bonsai made from artificially cultivated seedlings, whose main characteristic is a rigorous layout. The two should not be confused.

  When collecting tree stumps in the wild, first do the preparatory work before digging: prepare branch shears, a hand saw, a knife, a small iron shovel, large and small plastic bags or other packaging bags. You may also need to bring dry rations, a water bottle, and check and service your transportation, etc. Next, pay attention to the choice of tree species. For materials to make stump bonsai, choose species with beautiful tree form, fine branches and leaves, strong sprouting ability and tolerance of pruning, easy potting, and a relatively long lifespan. Commonly chosen are pine and cypress species, boxwood (Buxus), Sageretia (Sageretia thea), winter jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum), trident maple (Acer buergerianum), Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta), elm (Ulmus), zelkova (Zelkova), Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia), and so on. As for the collection time, generally deciduous trees and pine and cypress species can be dug from when the trees enter dormancy to before they sprout the following year.

  Although digging wild stumps cannot serve as the main source of material for mass production because the material is hard to obtain, it can be used as an auxiliary means to make distinctive bonsai. Its characteristics are rapid shaping and an easy ability to express the antique charm of bonsai, but it damages wild plant resources. Therefore, before digging, you must first investigate to avoid blind digging and waste.

  1. Methods for digging wild tree stumps

  Old tree stumps suitable for making bonsai generally grow in the crevices of barren mountain cliffs under poor conditions. In late autumn and early winter or early spring, first saw off the thick branches of the selected stump above ground, leaving only a section at the base, and cut off useless branches, then clear the area around the stump to make digging easier. When digging, first dig deep on one side. If there is a main root, cut the main root first, then cut the lateral roots. Otherwise, the main root is not easy to cut and the lateral roots and fibrous roots will be damaged. At the same time, take care to make the wounds as small and smooth as possible. When digging, keep as much of the soil ball as possible; the survival rate after planting will be high. For species with a taproot system or rare species, in order to ensure the survival rate, they often cannot be dug out all at once. In the first year, you can first cut the lateral roots on two opposite sides, dig a hole underneath, fill it with fertile loam, and water thoroughly to nourish the roots. In the second year, dig in the same way on another opposite side. In the third year, after the lateral roots of the stump have all produced new roots, dig it out with the soil ball.

  For a dug stump, first wrap it well with straw rope, then transport it. If the stump has no soil ball, first dip the roots in mud slurry, then wrap them with water-soaked straw and plastic film, tie them well, and then transport them. After the wild stump arrives at its destination, first open the packaging in a cool, wind-sheltered place, further trim the branches, and then pot it.

  2. Strive to improve the survival rate of wild tree stumps

  Because wild tree stumps grow in harsh environments in nature, especially stumps growing in cliffs and rock crevices, their root systems are generally long and have few fibrous roots, and they are not easy to keep alive after digging. To improve the survival rate of wild stumps, you can start from the following aspects:

  (1) Dig at the right time. In late winter and early spring, dig the stump when the sap begins to flow but before it sprouts. At this time, the survival rate of the dug stump after transplanting is high. Some stumps can also be dug and potted during the plum rain season, in light rain, or on cloudy days.

  (2) Protect the root system. When digging, cut the main root first, then the lateral roots. Make the cuts as small and smooth as possible. If there is a soil ball, after digging, properly prune the root system and immediately apply thin mud to the roots, especially coating the fibrous roots well. To keep the thin mud from falling off, you can wrap the roots with green grass. Before potting, remove the green grass, wrap another layer of moss around the roots to retain water, plant it in the pot, water it thoroughly once, and place it in a semi-shaded place for care.

  (3) Reduce transpiration. Before digging, according to the species and size of different plants, carefully observe the tree shape, cut off excess branches and leaves, and apply or wrap plastic film on the cuts. After collecting and bringing it back, before potting, prune the root system and branches and leaves once more, and use a sharp knife to smooth the cuts so that there are no cracks between the bark and the xylem. Then apply melted paraffin to the cuts, or rub the wounds back and forth with paraffin so that the cuts are evenly waxed; note that when rubbing, you must not crack the bark away from the xylem. Then pot it and proceed to normal care. Applying wax to the cuts can both reduce the plant's water transpiration and protect the wounds, preventing rot and infection caused by sap flowing from the wounds.

  (4) Film-covering method. After the new stump is potted, cover the stump with plastic film to reduce water evaporation. But note: do not water too much, otherwise it easily causes root rot; do not fertilize too early, and be sure to wait until the stump has survived before applying fertilizer. When the new shoots of the stump have grown to more than 5 cm long, you can choose a cloudy day to remove the plastic bag, letting the stump adapt to the external environment under weak light and strengthen its resistance.

  By digging natural wild stumps, you can conceive a design according to their natural forms and make stump bonsai with more wild flavor and natural charm.

  Precautions for collecting stumps in the wild:

  1. Pay attention to collecting stumps during the growing season and avoid times of severe cold and intense heat. Because during the growing season the sap flows quickly, wounds from cutting roots and pruning branches heal quickly, growth regulation is fast, and rapid rooting and rapid sprouting are promoted. In times of severe cold and intense heat, however, most tree stumps are in dormancy, the sap flow slows or even stops, wounds from cutting roots and pruning branches heal slowly, supply and demand are difficult to balance, and rooting and sprouting are difficult. In addition, in severe cold, stumps are prone to frost damage; in intense heat, stumps are prone to water loss and scorching.

  2. Pay attention to conserving soil and water. Good stumps all grow beside roads, along ditches, on slopes, and at cliffs, and with a little carelessness they can easily cause soil erosion.

  3. Pay attention to ecological balance and do not dig up every one you see. Observe carefully and weigh repeatedly; only collect stumps that truly have ornamental value. Otherwise, you waste time and effort and may even cause some tree species to become extinct.

  4. Pay attention to understanding the habits of the stump. Before setting out, first understand clearly the growing environment of the stump; only then can you avoid detours and gain something.

  5. Pay attention to safety. Good stumps grow beside roads, along ditches, on slopes, and at cliffs; these places have dangerous terrain and are relatively risky. At the same time, there are also wild animals, illness, and other unforeseeable events, so go out in groups and bring some essential medicines and medical supplies.