Home › Growing Techniques › Article

How to Grow and Care for Bleeding Heart Vine in Pots

Growing Techniques 0 views
Bleeding heart vine, also known as pearl lotus, produces bright red corollas that emerge from white terminal calyces in summer and autumn. The interlocking red and white hues resemble a roaming dragon spitting out pearls, making it exceptionally beautiful. It is a common potted flower, mainly grown in greenhouses for ornamental display and can be used on flower stands. Generally, potted plants stay quite short due to pruning restrictions.

  Bleeding heart vine, also known as pearl lotus, produces bright red corollas that emerge from white terminal calyces in summer and autumn. The interlocking red and white hues resemble a roaming dragon spitting out pearls, making it exceptionally beautiful. It is a common potted flower, mainly grown in greenhouses for ornamental display and can be used on flower stands. Generally, potted plants stay quite short due to pruning restrictions. It is distributed in tropical West Africa and Mexico, and is cultivated in China.

  Before the flowers of bleeding heart vine open, you can admire its snow-white calyces that look like small lanterns. Five diamond-shaped calyces close together to form a mini white carambola. The red flower bud extends from the opening of this carambola, truly like a dragon spitting out a pearl. Then the flower blooms, with long stamens inside like dragon whiskers, trembling atop the crimson petals. Even in the dark of night, it is dazzlingly bright.

  When bleeding heart vine blooms, the deep red corolla extends from the white calyx, shaped like a spit-out pearl. The flower shape is unique and the blooming is profuse. Its flowers all have prismatic calyces composed of bracts, like little milk-white "carambola babies." From the slit at their tips, five crimson flowers emerge, evenly distributed across the leaves, like red pearls of life's fire being spat out one after another.

  Bleeding heart vine prefers a warm, humid, semi-shaded environment with ample sunlight, and is not cold-tolerant.

  [Soil]

  Use fertile, loose, well-draining sandy loam. For potting, use a mix of culture soil or peat soil and coarse sand.

  [Light]

  Bleeding heart vine needs sufficient light in winter. When the weather is too hot in summer, it should be shaded, otherwise the leaves turn yellow. Insufficient light causes vine-like growth without flowering. Flower bud differentiation is not affected by photoperiod, but stronger light promotes flower bud differentiation and development. It should not be placed in darkness for too long; at temperatures above 21°C for more than 24 hours, it will drop its flowers.

  [Watering]

  Bleeding heart vine is quite sensitive to moisture and needs plenty of water during the growing season. During stem and leaf growth, keep the soil moist, but do not overwater. Too much water causes only vines to grow without flowering, and can even cause leaves to turn yellow and drop, and roots to rot and die. If branches wither, stop watering and let it recover and sprout new leaves. In hot summer months, water thoroughly and shade appropriately. In winter, reduce watering to let it go dormant for a safe overwintering.

  [Fertilizing]

  Bleeding heart vine likes fertilizer. Apply diluted cake fertilizer water every 7-10 days. Before flowering, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to make the flowers more vivid. Regularly applying a little 0.2% ferrous sulfate can prevent leaves from turning yellow. Also pay attention to pinching to encourage branching and more flowers. Bleeding heart vine is a climbing plant; to maintain its beautiful shape, prune promptly to keep the plant short and full with abundant flowers and lush leaves. Before winter, move the plant indoors, with room temperature kept at around 12-15°C.

  [Pruning]

  When repotting each spring, prune and shorten the above-ground branches to make the plant round and neat with more branches and flowers.

  [Pest and Disease Control]

  The main diseases include mosaic disease and fungal diseases that cause leaf drop. Common threats are rust, gray mold, and mosaic virus disease. For rust, spray with 20% carboxin EC at 400 times dilution. For gray mold and mosaic virus disease, spray with 50% benomyl wettable powder at 2500 times dilution. Pests include leaf beetles, nettle caterpillars, and scale insects, which can be controlled by spraying with 2.5% deltamethrin at 3000 times dilution.

  Growing tips:

  1. Bleeding heart vine is a flowering ornamental with a very long blooming period. It prefers fertile, well-draining, slightly acidic sandy loam. For potted bleeding heart vine, repot every 1-2 years, either in early spring or after flowers fade. When repotting, first cover the drainage hole with broken tile pieces, add a small amount of bone meal as base fertilizer, then fill with new culture soil (4 parts leaf mold, 4 parts garden soil, 2 parts sand). Plant the vine, leaving 2-3 cm of rim space for fertilizing and watering. After repotting, water thoroughly and place in shade for the plant to recover, then move to a sunny spot for care.

  2. Do not over-fertilize bleeding heart vine. During the flowering season, apply decomposed diluted cake fertilizer water every 7-10 days, for 3-4 applications total. If yellowing is observed during cultivation, apply 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution along with topdressing to gradually turn the leaves from yellow back to green. Fertilize once every half month. During the flowering season, add 1-2 applications of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, or use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 all-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer. In winter, reduce watering and stop fertilizing.

  3. Potted bleeding heart vine is commonly grown in 12-15 cm pots, with 3 plants per pot. It needs plenty of water during the growing season. If the soil is too wet, leaves will turn yellow and drop. If the branches do not wither, stop watering and let it recover and sprout new leaves.

  4. To shape a beautiful plant form of bleeding heart vine, when cutting or seedling plants reach 15 cm after potting, cut the stem 10 cm from the pot rim to encourage vigorous new branch growth. During the growing season, strictly control branch height, pinch and tip-prune to achieve neat branching and dense future blooms. Half a month after pinching, apply daminozide or chlormequat to control plant height, achieving a short, lush, and floriferous plant.

Time: 2019-06-01Clicks:

Related Articles