How to grow a Chinese elm bonsai? Detailed care methods and tips

  Many bonsai enthusiasts buy a Chinese elm bonsai but do not know how to care for it. Although the Chinese elm bonsai is easy to grow, the survival rate of collected wild stumps is not high, especially when cared for on a balcony. Based on years of experience, one flower enthusiast has summarized some key points for caring for Chinese elm bonsai, hoping to be helpful to fellow enthusiasts.

  1. Be strict when selecting stumps. The stump material must be fresh; do not take dead, rotten, or rootless ones. Choose as few and as fine as possible rather than pursuing quantity, and make sure every selected stump can survive.

  2. Pre-planting treatment of Chinese elm is very important, especially caring well for its wounds and cut surfaces, because its wounds easily bleed large amounts of sap when they meet water. Therefore, after the stump material has been trimmed, be sure to smooth the cut surfaces and wounds. For large cut surfaces, it is best to trim the bark and xylem into a 45-degree slope. This not only prevents bacterial infection but also helps the wounds heal as quickly as possible and take root sooner.

  3. After the wounds have been treated, the stump cannot be potted immediately. It should be placed in a shady spot to dry for a few hours, letting the wounds naturally lose water and form a protective film. This can greatly reduce sap flow after the stump is potted. The biggest shortcoming of all elm species is that they easily bleed sap. If the Chinese elm stump, before and after planting, cannot effectively overcome this shortcoming, then it is very difficult to ensure the stump's survival.

  4. Some Chinese elm stumps have many holes on them, and many of the holes are filled with leaf litter and weeds, which must be thoroughly cleaned out. The reason is that these debris more or less harbor ant colonies or insect eggs. If they are not cleaned out before potting, then when the weather warms up later, the ants and insect eggs in the holes will become more active and multiply more, making them difficult to eradicate and causing endless harm. In the end, the stump may be eaten away and die.

  The Chinese elm is an ordinary tree, found in mountains and wild fields all across the land. The Chinese elm has an elegant tree form, small emerald leaves, an unrestrained and bold bearing, and abundant vitality. Its layers are clear, its density well arranged, its roots gnarled and interlocking, with exposed hanging roots and claws. Whether the stump is large or small, it carries a solemn elegance and a majestic momentum. Ancient stumps in particular are even more striking with their cavernous hollows, vigorous antiquity, twisted peculiarity, and venerable old appearance. The branches are natural and upright, giving a strong sense of an old tree meeting spring.

  1. Soil

  For soil, it is best to use yellow sand, pine needle soil, and loess mixed in a 4:3:3 ratio. Place several layers of tile pieces at the bottom of the pot, then add a layer of coarse sand. After filling with soil, shake it a few times first, then press it down firmly along the pot edge to prevent hollows from forming under the stump roots and affecting root development.

  2. Watering

  The Chinese elm likes moisture, so watering should be plentiful. In summer, when temperatures are high and light is strong, water once in the morning and once in the evening, but do not let water accumulate in the pot. In autumn, watering can be reduced. In winter, if the pot is buried in soil, watering may not be necessary. After watering thoroughly to settle the roots, cover it with a plastic bag and place it in a relatively fixed spot. Do not move it frequently, to avoid loosening the stump roots or breaking off root buds. Control watering as much as possible, spray water on the branches and trunk more often, and keep the potting soil preferably on the dry side.

  3. Fertilizing

  In winter, apply farmyard manure or cake fertilizer once as a base fertilizer. From April to October (except during the plum rain season), apply a dilute organic fertilizer once every half month to maintain the nutrients needed for normal growth. The fertilizer should be mainly nitrogen and potassium fertilizers.

  4. Pruning

  The branches and leaves of the Chinese elm grow quickly. To maintain the bonsai's shape, pruning should be done regularly. Generally, when new shoots extend to 5-6 cm, keep only 2-3 leaves and cut off the rest. To control growth, buds and tips can also be pinched off at any time.

  5. Repotting

  Carry this out once every 2-3 years. The best time is before spring bud break, though autumn is also acceptable. When repotting, about 1/2 of the old soil can be removed, some old roots trimmed off, and fertile, loose culture soil added.

  6. Pest and disease control

  The Chinese elm has many insect pests, commonly including elm leaf beetles, scale insects, longhorn beetles, slug moths, and bagworms. Spray 80% dichlorvos at 1500 times dilution for control. When longhorn beetles damage the trunk, use lime sulfur mixture to plug the insect holes.

  7. Placement

  The Chinese elm should be placed in a spot with ample sunlight and good air circulation. In summer, shade is not needed. In winter, it can be placed outdoors. To prevent the potting soil from drying out and freezing, the whole pot can be buried in soil.

  The author believes that the reason the Chinese elm is so favored by people is, relatively speaking: first, it is easy to obtain material; second, it grows quickly; third, it is managed extensively; fourth, it can be enjoyed with or without leaves; and fifth, it costs little. But whether one can create and care for it well, the author believes, depends on properly solving the following 6 issues:

  1. Properly solve the problem of "sap bleeding"

  Sageretia fears "branch dieback," while Chinese elm fears "sap bleeding." The solutions for "sap bleeding" generally include air-drying, applying plant ash, coating with mud slurry, coating with latex, hot-dripping beeswax, and applying erythromycin ointment. Also be careful not to water with "root-settling water" immediately when planting; wait 2-3 days before watering. As long as "sap bleeding" can be stopped and there is no threat to the Chinese elm's survival, the results will be twice as good with half the effort.

  2. Properly solve the problem of "branches not being in place"

  "The Chinese elm is of superior quality, but poor branches hinder appreciation." Although this problem is not fatal, it is somewhat unsightly and affects appreciation, leaving something to be desired. For this reason, the author has also repeatedly imitated the "hammering to promote growth" method at selected positions, but all were difficult to make effective, so the only option was to hang and pull nearby branches and bend them to make up for the missing parts.

  3. Properly solve the problem of "taking off clothes and changing to brocade"

  Carry out heavy pruning on the Chinese elm and remove all leaves to promote its best ornamental period again. There are three ways to remove the leaves: first, cut them off leaf by leaf with floral scissors; second, place the plant in a corner of a hall to cause the leaves to fall naturally; third, "withhold water" for 5-7 days to cause a short-term interruption of water supply and force the leaves to fall.