How to make a Dieffenbachia (Alocasia) bonsai? Detailed method tutorial shared

  Dieffenbachia, also known as Tianyu, Guanyin Lotus, Gupo Yu, etc., is a large evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Alocasia in the Araceae family, originally from the primitive forests of Southeast Asia and Australia, and also found in South China and Lanyu, Taiwan, China and other places. In northern China it needs to overwinter indoors, while in the south it can grow in the open ground. Its corms and leaves can be used medicinally but are highly toxic.

  Dieffenbachia is native to the humid tropical rainforests of Southeast Asia. It prefers diffused light and does not like direct sunlight. In spring and autumn it should be placed in a semi-shaded spot, in summer in a shaded place, and in winter it should be brought indoors. If the sunlight is too strong, the leaves will become sunburned and turn yellow. However, "all things grow by sunlight" - if it is placed in the living room, bedroom or other places for a long time, due to insufficient or no light, the plant's growth and morphogenesis will be affected. Under such conditions, the plant's internodes become especially long, the leaves are underdeveloped and small, and they lack chlorophyll and appear yellow.

  In addition, Dieffenbachia likes high temperature and high humidity. Appropriately applying some fertilizer and paying attention to watering more can increase its resistance to the environment and also help keep the leaves greener.

  Keep the potting soil moist for Dieffenbachia; you can expose a bit of the root. Water when the potting soil is dry, and water thoroughly each time. Cut off yellowed leaves right at the base, being careful not to damage other leaf stems.

  We generally maintain Dieffenbachia as a potted plant, but if we want to make it into a bonsai, how should we do it? Below is the method for making a Dieffenbachia bonsai.

  1. Substrate preparation

  Use loose domestic peat with good drainage and aeration, and cultivate with a nutrient soil mix of pond mud, peat soil, and coarse sand in a 2:2:1 ratio plus a small amount of thoroughly composted cake fertilizer. Add water to the peat and mix well (standard for adding water: after adding water and mixing, when you tightly squeeze a handful of peat, water seeps out from between your fingers). Wait until it is ready for cup planting.

  2. Potting

  For old pots that are reused, they must be soaked in a 2000-fold potassium permanganate solution for more than half an hour, then rinsed with clean water and dried for later use. Large pots are generally planted with 20cm specification pots. When planting, first place about 4cm of substrate at the bottom of the cup, then transplant the screened seedlings into the cup. Small seedlings should not be planted too deep; it is best to keep them level with the base of the plant. The substrate should be moderately firm, filled to 8 parts full of the cup, 2-3 plants per pot.

  3. Misting

  Dieffenbachia is especially fond of moisture. During the growing season, not only should the potting soil be moist, but the air humidity should also be no less than 60%. During high summer temperatures, misting should be increased to create a relatively cool and humid environment for it. If placed in an indoor air-conditioned hall, it is necessary both to keep the potting soil moist and to mist the leaf surfaces from time to time. If the indoor temperature in winter cannot reach 15°C, watering should be controlled, otherwise it is easy to cause root rot. Generally, misting once a week with warm water is enough to keep its leaves dark green.

  4. Fertilizing

  Dieffenbachia prefers fertilizer. From March to October, apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, and the proportion of nitrogen can be appropriately increased. If a little ferrous sulfate can be added, so much the better - the leaves will then grow as large as lotus leaves and be smooth and attractive. Fertilizing should stop when the temperature is below 15°C.

  5. Pruning

  Because Dieffenbachia is a foliage plant, when planting and care are improper, the largest leaves may turn yellow and dry up. At this time, they should be cut off together with the stem using a knife, otherwise it will affect the growth and ornamental value of other leaves.

  6. Repotting

  It can be cultivated with a nutrient soil mix of leaf mold, peat soil, river sand plus a small amount of thoroughly composted cake fertilizer. Alternatively, it can be hydroponically grown, but attention should be paid to preventing root rot and adding nutrient solution. Usually repot once every spring, and loosen the soil once a month to keep the potting soil in a well-aerated state.

  Precautions:

  1. The white sap in the stem of Dieffenbachia is toxic, and the water it drips is also toxic. Accidental contact with or ingestion of its sap will cause discomfort in the throat and mouth and a burning pain in the stomach. Special attention should be paid to preventing young children from accidentally eating it. However, Dieffenbachia is not a carcinogenic plant.

  2. Dieffenbachia is toxic. Skin contact with its sap will cause itching or strong irritation, and eye contact with the sap can cause severe conjunctivitis, or even blindness. Accidentally eating the stem or leaves will cause symptoms of nausea and pain, and in severe cases can also cause suffocation, leading to death from cardiac paralysis. Therefore, contact with Dieffenbachia should be minimized, and families with children had best not grow it.