How to grow a potted ponytail palm? A detailed guide to planting methods

The ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), also called the elephant-foot tree, gets its name because the base of its stem resembles a wine bottle. It is a tree-like succulent. Because of its peculiar stem shape, its especially swollen base that looks just like a big wine bottle, plus its bark cracked into small squares and its tufted, gracefully swaying leaves, it has become a very unusual ornamental plant. It not only has a great beautifying effect, but can also absorb harmful substances indoors such as benzene and formaldehyde, purifying the home.

The ponytail palm is not the orchid we know well, nor is it a spider plant. It is originally a tall tree, several meters high, but because the lower part of its trunk near the soil swells up like a wine bottle, it is very distinctive, so it has been improved into a potted variety for indoor growing. Now let us introduce the planting methods for the ponytail palm.

1. Soil mixing

The soil for potting should be well drained. You can mix 3 parts fertile garden soil with 1 part coal cinder, then add a small amount of soybean cake or chicken manure as a base fertilizer.

2. Propagation

The ponytail palm is commonly propagated by sowing and cuttings.

(1) Sowing method: mostly carried out in March-April. Sow the seeds in a substrate mixed with leaf mold and river sand, and keep it moist (not too wet, otherwise they will rot). They will sprout in 15-20 days.

(2) Cutting method: in spring, cut off side branches that the plant has naturally produced to use as cuttings. After cutting, let them dry for 1-2 days, then insert them into plain sandy soil and cover with plastic film to maintain humidity. They will root in 15-20 days.

3. Choosing a pot

For potting, choose a tall pot. The pot diameter should not be too large; it is best if the rim diameter is 1/3 larger than the diameter of the base of the plant's stem.

4. Potting up

The swollen stem base needs to be fully exposed above the soil surface. For potting, you can use a substrate mixed from 2 parts leaf mold, 1 part garden soil, 1 part river sand and a small amount of plant ash.

5. Fertilizing

In spring, summer and autumn, apply liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer once every 2-3 weeks to promote swelling of the base. When fertilizing, pay attention to increasing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, with a nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium ratio of 5:10:5. Stop fertilizing in winter.

6. Watering

Because its stem can store water for use when water is scarce, the ponytail palm is especially drought-tolerant and can still grow normally without watering for half a year. When watering, aim for the potting soil to be moist, and follow the principle of preferring dry over wet. Never let water accumulate in the pot, otherwise the fleshy roots and stem will easily rot. Especially after the temperature drops in late autumn, reduce the amount of watering to improve the tree's cold resistance. In winter, control watering and do not water unless it is dry. In hot seasons, maintain relatively high air humidity; you can often sprinkle water on the ground and spray a small amount on the leaves.

7. Pruning

In winter, when the plant enters dormancy or semi-dormancy, cut off weak, diseased, pest-infested, dead and overly dense branches. You can also tidy up the branches in combination with taking cuttings.

8. Repotting

Repot once every 2-3 years in spring, before the new leaves have sprouted in large numbers in spring. When repotting, remove the surrounding old soil, then move it into a pot one size larger.

9. Pests and diseases

The ponytail palm is sometimes harmed by leaf spot disease; spray Bordeaux mixture (1:1:100) once every half month. Pests include mirid bugs, whiteflies and scale insects, which can be killed by spraying a 1500-fold dilution of 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate.