How to propagate a potted hibiscus by cuttings? Let me teach you the correct propagation method
Propagating new plants from cuttings is a cheap way to get new plants. Propagation through stems is suitable for most woody ornamental plants (including hibiscus shrubs). Although lychee can also root in ordinary water, using soil or a soilless medium can make hibiscus rooting more successful.

Hibiscus
Hibiscus plants have two growth forms: annual and perennial. These flowering plants grow to different mature sizes depending on the species. Most plants grow between 0.6 and 2.4 m to reach maturity. As the number of years increases, these plants gradually grow into a circle. Hibiscus flowers come in various colors, such as red, pink and yellow. Hibiscus plants usually reproduce by forming seeds in their natural environment. One method of breeding through asexual propagation includes rooting, or planting part of their stems and branches into roots.
Cuttings
Spring is the better time to take cuttings of hibiscus plants. Softwood cuttings contain new growth; although they are a bit soft, they break easily. Choose semi-hardwood cuttings that contain older, harder growth, but these cuttings grow more slowly than softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings preferably have larger leaves near the lower stem and new, smaller leaves along the top. Look for newly opened shoots that are as thick as a pencil and at least 12.7 cm to 15.2 cm long.
Water rooting
Vegetative cuttings need a moist environment so that the stem and leaves are supplied with water while new roots begin to form. Although placing cuttings in a glass of water is effective for some plants, such as coleus, mint, ivy and mullein, most plants need a medium added to the stem. The use of a rooting medium can promote healthier root growth during the woody cutting process.
Rooting medium
Loose, porous soil or a soilless medium supports fertilizer cuttings and provides moisture and air to promote optimal growth. Mix one part peat with three parts sand to form a suitable medium. Strip the leaves below the hibiscus cutting and insert it into the medium. For about five weeks, keep the soil slightly moist and be ready to transplant it into a nice outdoor location or a large indoor flowerpot.
What are the common pests and diseases of hibiscus, and how do you care for them?Hibiscus is also often called kapok. It is a very good potted decorative plant in the house. Because it has a strong absorption effect on many harmful gases such as sulfur dioxide, it is often planted more in some sewage treatment plants or factories that produce more exhaust gas; at the same time, hibiscus is also a plant that is more susceptible to pests and diseases. So what is most easily affected by worms and how do you prevent them?
1. Scarab beetle
The scarab beetle can be described as one of the insects that troubles many plants. Usually, when hibiscus is attacked by scarab beetles, it always eats important parts of the plant such as branches and buds. The result may cause abnormal growth of the hibiscus, and the hibiscus will become smaller and produce a disastrous phenomenon.
If the hibiscus is slightly damaged by scarab beetles, then you can take the method of manually driving away the insects, or do some trimming of the soil near the raft, because usually the larvae of scarab beetles are often in the raft soil; if it is attacked by scarab beetles, this is more serious. When you can choose to spray a certain concentration of Huabaohushen solution, it can have a good effect on scarab beetles, and at the same time, properly pruning hibiscus branches can also play a very good control role.
2. Brown spot disease
Brown spot disease is relatively less common, but if it infects brown spot disease, its harm to the leaves is greater. The leaves begin to look incomplete, the leaf edges turn dark brown and gradually spread to the whole leaf, and in severe cases, the back part of the leaf is also affected.
For the treatment of brown spot disease, the plant can be slightly changed in terms of fertilization. A certain amount of organic fertilizer and more potassium fertilizer and phosphorus fertilizer should be added to the fertilizer. At the same time, diseased leaves and residual leaves on the plant should be cut off in time. If found, they should be cut off together; if it is found to be more serious, a 40-60% concentration of carbendazim solution should be sprayed for repair, usually once every 7-10 days for one month. A considerable change can be made from left to right.
3. Aphids
Aphids are the most common and troublesome pests for hibiscus and hibiscus. When the disease occurs, the leaves and branches of the hibiscus will be seriously affected, causing the hibiscus not to bloom as planned, and there may be other diseases, so solving the mites is a very serious problem.
To control the locusts, everyone needs to be careful. The leaves should be checked regularly. If the color of the leaves or branches begins to show signs of yellowing, special attention should be paid, because it may be infested by mites. The better way to deal with mites is to directly use insecticides. It can be killed with 50% Huabaohu or carbendazim solution, and then the effect can be achieved.
4. Raft management, a complete guide to raft maintenance techniques
The demand for light by the raft is relatively large, with about 10 hours of sunlight, and the whole plant should be exposed to sunlight to avoid growing in one direction; watering is especially important in summer. At this time, the water demand of hibiscus is very large, and proper watering must be carried out every day. Otherwise, it is easy to cause the death of hibiscus; when the branches and leaves grow to a certain extent, topdressing must be carried out, mainly organic fertilizer based on phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, especially during the flowering period, to ensure the nutrient absorption of hibiscus, so the hibiscus flowers are more beautiful and slender.
Tips for cutting propagation of household flowersTips for cutting propagation of household flowers
Cutting cuttings means cutting the stems, roots, leaves, buds, etc. of flowers, inserting them into soil or soaking them in water, planting them after rooting, and growing them into new plants. Figure 5-5 shows cuttings seedlings. However, the conditions for cuttings of different flowers are different.
1. Types of cutting
There are three types of cutting: leaf insertion, stem insertion and root insertion. They are classified according to the maturity of the cuttings and different floral organs. In addition, according to the insertion time and method, they can be divided into division and insertion.
(1) Leaf insertion is a kind of flower whose leaves can be inserted, with thick petioles, leaf veins or thick leaves. Leaf insertion leaves - "used for enrichment, effect, usually in the propagation bed. Leaf insertion is divided into three types: whole-leaf insertion, leaf insertion and bud insertion:
Cutting and propagation of gardenia
(2) The position of stem insertion is not limited. According to the season and type, in order to survive, it can be covered with a plastic shed for insulation or a canopy. Stem insertion is divided into three types: soft material cutting, semi-soft material cutting and hard material cutting.
(3) Root insertion Some perennial flowers can produce adventitious buds from the roots and form seedlings, which are suitable for root propagation. This kind of flower root is very thick, not less than 2 mm, and the root of the same kind of flower is thicker and longer. It can be done in early spring and late autumn, or the mother plant can be dug up in autumn, the roots stored over winter, and then cut again in the spring of the next year.
2. The key to survival
To ensure the survival of cuttings, we must pay attention to the following key issues.
(1) The selection and treatment of cuttings should be healthy. Cuttings inserted from branches should be cut immediately after harvest. Cut succulent plants and place them in a ventilated place for a few days. After the cut is dry, cut it again to prevent rot, singe the cut with a small fire, or apply a little burned grass ash to the cut.
(2) The cutting temperature should be 20 to 25°C. Too low or too high a temperature will affect growth. Therefore, if the temperature is controllable, the season can be reduced. Under natural conditions, it is better to choose spring and autumn.
(3) The humidity of the cuttings should keep the cutting substrate properly moist. In addition, ensure air humidity, such as covering with plastic film, but keep it ventilated.