Monstera deliciosa care methods and its air-purifying, formaldehyde-absorbing benefits

Use Klasmann 5-40mm grade imported peat that is loose, well-draining and well-aerated. Break up the peat, add water and mix well (standard for adding water: after mixing, squeeze a handful of peat tightly and water should seep out between your fingers), then plant in pots.

For potted Monstera deliciosa, a mix of equal parts leaf mold, garden soil and river sand is usually used as the growing medium. When planting, add a small amount of bone meal and dried cow manure as base fertilizer. It likes moisture and needs plenty of water during the growing period, and the potting soil must be kept moist at all times; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaves to keep the air humid, which promotes the growth of branches and leaves and keeps the foliage bright. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce the amount of watering. Monstera deliciosa is a flower that relatively likes fertilizer. To make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September; with sufficient fertilizer, the leaf color becomes lovely. During the growing season, pay attention to shading, and avoid direct strong sunlight, especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sun, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched and burned, affecting ornamental value. The leaves of Monstera deliciosa sometimes develop brown spot disease, and thiophanate or carbendazim and similar should be sprayed promptly for control to prevent the disease from spreading.

Monstera deliciosa is easy to cultivate. To shorten the growth cycle and improve the ornamental effect, the following points should be noted in care:

It fears strong sunlight and sunscald. Monstera deliciosa is a typical shade-tolerant plant. For large-scale production, shade facilities must be installed, and a 50% shade net can be used. Especially for sown seedlings and newly rooted cuttings, direct sunlight must be avoided to prevent leaf burn. Mature plants also need shading during midsummer, otherwise the leaves age, lose their natural luster, and their ornamental value is affected.

It fears dry air. Monstera deliciosa grows naturally in tropical rainforests and likes moisture, but waterlogged potting soil will also cause root rot, causing the plant to stop growing, the leaves to droop, lose their luster, and become uneven. Watering should follow the principle of preferring wet over dry, keeping the potting soil moist at all times but not waterlogged; in spring and autumn, water once every 2-3 days. In midsummer, besides watering every day, spray water multiple times to keep the leaf surface fresh; for hanging cultivation, spray water even more frequently. In winter, leaf transpiration weakens, so the amount of watering should be reduced.

Apply thin fertilizer frequently. Monstera deliciosa is a foliage plant that is relatively tolerant of fertilizer. To encourage more new leaves and keep the leaf color emerald green with a natural luster, apply fertilizer once every half month during the growing period. When fertilizing, be careful not to let the fertilizer solution stain the leaf surface. At the same time, the roots of Monstera deliciosa are relatively tender, and raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer should be avoided to prevent root burn. It is best to use "Huiyou" 20-8-20 four-season high potassium nitrate fertilizer and 20-20-20 general-purpose fertilizer, which are more beneficial to the growth of Monstera deliciosa.

It needs tying and shaping. Monstera deliciosa is a large foliage plant with thick stems and large leaves. Especially when dividing adult plants, a frame should be set up for tying to prevent lodging and deformation. After the shape is set, remove the support. At the same time, after the shape is set, when the stem nodes and leaves grow too densely and the branches and vines grow too long, pay attention to pruning the whole plant, striving for a natural and beautiful appearance.

Propagation in the north

Monstera deliciosa is native to tropical rainforests and is a perennial vine evergreen flower. In the north it is difficult for it to bloom and set seed, so it can only be propagated by the stem-cutting method. For stem-cutting propagation, choose plants that are growing well and have more than 5 leaves.

Time for stem cutting

Because Monstera deliciosa is a flower that likes moisture and high temperatures, July-August is its peak growing season. Carrying out stem-cutting propagation during this period gives the highest survival rate. However, plants propagated by stem cutting during this period can only grow 1-2 leaves after developing before stopping growth due to the arrival of autumn, and cannot provide ornamental value in the same year. Therefore, when stem-cutting technique is proficient, it can also be advanced to late May.

Stem-cutting operation

Watering should be stopped one or two days before stem cutting; slightly dry potting soil is conducive to the operation. When cutting the stem, first knock the Monstera deliciosa out of the pot, then gently remove the root soil by hand, and clean up the tangled root system one by one neatly. At this time, the number of stem sections to cut and the position of the cuts can be determined according to the development of the main vine and the strength of the root system. Generally speaking, after stem cutting, the mother plant should retain at least 3 leaves, otherwise it is difficult for its growth to recover. If the main vine is about 4 cm in diameter, it can be cut into single nodes; weaker plants can be cut into sections of 2-3 connected nodes. In addition, it should be noted that each node of the main vine of Monstera deliciosa has only one bud eye. The bud eye is characterized by a slight bulge on the surface of the vine stem. If the cut is accidentally placed at the position of the bud eye, that section of vine stem will never be able to sprout again. After considering all the above factors thoroughly, first cut off the old leaves on the vine stem to be removed so as to induce new buds more quickly, then use a sharp knife to cut the main vine horizontally. The cut should avoid the root system and bud eyes and be close to the leaf stalk. The cut short stems can be placed in pre-prepared pots; the size of the pot should be determined by the number of roots, and it should not be too large or too small.

A layer of coarse sand should first be placed at the bottom of the flower pot to facilitate drainage, then add leaf mold or ordinary garden soil; base fertilizer is not necessary. Then place the cut short stems horizontally in the pot, and fill with soil so that all the roots are buried and the short stems are just exposed. Press the soil gently with your hands, water thoroughly, and place in a position with medium light. Water an appropriate amount every few days. After about one month, cracks will appear at the positions of the bud eyes, and new buds will gradually grow.

Potted plant management

For potting, mix 3 parts leaf mold, 3 parts compost soil and 4 parts river sand to make the growing medium. When changing the pot and soil every spring, add well-rotted organic fertilizer or phosphorus and potassium fertilizer into the pot as base fertilizer. During the growing season, watering must be frequent, following the principle of preferring wet over dry, keeping the potting soil moist. In summer, frequently spray water on the leaves to maintain relatively high air humidity. In winter, the temperature must not be lower than 10°C, and cold wind must be prevented, otherwise the leaves are prone to turning yellow and dropping. In winter, the potting soil should be on the dry side, slightly moist; too wet easily causes root rot and withered leaves. Every 3-5 days, spray and water the branches and leaves once with water at the same or similar temperature as the room, to remove indoor dust pollution and keep the plant fresh and bright at all times. From May to September, apply dilute liquid fertilizer once every 2 weeks or so, and apply foliar fertilizer once during the peak growth period; a 0.1% urea aqueous solution or a 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate aqueous solution is better. During overwintering, fertilize less or not at all.

For a long period, water must be sufficient, and the growing medium must be kept moist at all times, watering once every 2-3 days; in dry weather, water should also be sprayed on the leaves to keep the air humid, following the watering principle of preferring wet over dry, to promote the growth of branches and leaves and keep the foliage bright. In autumn and winter, gradually reduce the amount of watering. Excessive watering causes root rot, but the air should still be kept relatively humid; spray water on the leaves every 7-10 days to keep the plant and leaves fresh and evergreen. Monstera deliciosa relatively likes fertilizer. To make it grow vigorously, apply dilute liquid fertilizer twice a month from April to September. During the growing season, pay attention to shading; semi-shade is best, and direct strong sunlight should be avoided. Especially in midsummer it must not be placed in direct sun, otherwise the leaves are easily scorched and burned, affecting ornamental value. After 2-3 years of cultivation, the stem of Monstera deliciosa becomes too tall, reaching more than 1.5 m, but it cannot stand upright, so a bamboo pole can be inserted for support to prevent lodging. For large potted plants, use 1 wooden stick 1.3-1.5 m long, insert it into the pot, and plant the Monstera deliciosa; first, it prevents lodging, and second, it grows luxuriantly attached to the pole. Alternatively, cut the overly tall stem for propagation, letting the mother plant sprout new stems and new leaves again. In winter, it needs to be placed indoors above 10°C, but at least keep the temperature above 5°C, otherwise the leaves will freeze and scorch, and the potting soil should be on the dry side. During the growing period, Monstera deliciosa often develops brown spot disease and anthracnose, and 50% thiophanate and 75% chlorothalonil 1000-fold solution, or 50% carbendazim 800-1000-fold solution, can be sprayed promptly for control. In summer and winter with poor ventilation, scale insects and noctuid larvae often appear on the back of the stem, sucking sap and eating tender leaves; the insects can be caught by hand or brushed off, and it is best to spray with 40% omethoate emulsifiable concentrate 1500-fold solution, or 40% isocarbophos emulsifiable concentrate 2000-fold solution, or 40% profenofos emulsifiable concentrate 1500-fold solution.

Summer and autumn care

In autumn, due to strong sunlight and dry, hot weather, potted Monstera deliciosa should be placed in a cool, ventilated place. While providing reasonable shading, spray more water on the leaves to increase humidity and lower temperature, and keep the leaf surface smooth and bright, adding a sense of coolness to the room. Because of frequent watering and spraying in summer, the potting soil easily becomes compacted and its acidity decreases. To prevent physiological yellowing of Monstera deliciosa, which leads to iron-deficiency chlorosis, a small amount of ferrous sulfate can be added while watering, at a concentration of about 0.5-1.0%, to increase the acidity of the potting soil and supplement the plant's iron nutrition. In late autumn, to help Monstera deliciosa overwinter safely, a small amount of potassium chloride or potassium carbonate can be applied to increase the concentration of the plant cell sap and enhance its cold resistance, so that it can safely pass through the severe winter. The method to inhibit its growth is to control watering and fertilizing, changing watering to spraying water on the leaves; a clean and hygienic metal awl can be selected to pierce through the base stem nodes of Monstera deliciosa, damaging part of its conducting tissue, blocking the transport of some nutrients, making the plant shape neat and compact, with short stems, dense nodes, short stalks and beautiful leaves.