Can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom? The fertilizing and growing method with the best absorption results

The hyacinth has a unique appearance, and it is the bouquet many friends choose to buy first. Before it blooms it looks like garlic; it originates from the Mediterranean coast and Asia Minor, and it is the most fragrant variety among the flowering plants that research has discovered. So can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom? How should hyacinths be fertilized for the best absorption results? What growing methods are there for hyacinths?

I. Can hyacinths be kept in the bedroom?

1. The hyacinth is actually a flower that carries a small amount of toxin. The flowers it produces are not toxic, but the pollen it releases can trigger allergic reactions in people with an overly pollen-sensitive constitution.

2. The hyacinth flower has a faint fragrance, but do not be fooled by its scent, because this fragrance should not be smelled up close for a long time.

3. Its bulb carries a certain toxicity; accidentally eating this thing may cause symptoms of stomachache, diarrhea and dizziness, and if the amount eaten is too large there may well be a risk to life. If there are children or pets in the home, then extra attention must be paid to where the hyacinth is placed, to avoid accidents.

4. Although the hyacinth generally will not cause much of a problem if you do not touch it, its pollen can spread through the air, and this pollen easily causes allergic reactions in the human body.

5. The scent of the hyacinth can affect people's sleep. If it is placed in the bedroom, smelling too much of the fragrance while sleeping at night may cause insomnia, make the fresh air in the bedroom stale, and bring adverse effects on the body.

6. At the same time, the hyacinth should also be kept out of the study as much as possible, because that easily affects reading efficiency and causes the brain to lack oxygen. So, try not to place the hyacinth in the bedroom; you can choose other flowers to place instead.

II. How should hyacinths be fertilized for the best absorption results?

If it is a hyacinth you have just bought, do not fertilize it first; wait until it has settled into the pot and its growth is stable, then decide according to its growth condition whether additional fertilizing is needed. Generally, apply additional fertilizer once in winter, and once before and once after flowering in spring; be careful to apply light fertilizer frequently.

How should soil-grown hyacinths be fertilized for the best absorption results? Actually, the nutrients stored in an ordinary hyacinth bulb can generally meet its own needs for growth and development, but during leaf growth, regularly spray with 0.2% urea, and during the bud stage spray with 0.2% monopotassium phosphate to help improve flower quality. Or choose nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers, such as Huaduoduo No. 2, Bikaihua, monopotassium phosphate and the like.

If it is a hydroponic hyacinth, then generally no fertilizer is needed; it is better to add nutrient solution. Change the water once a week and add a little nutrient solution, which is better and can promote the plant to bloom more brightly and in greater numbers.

III. Hyacinth growing methods

1. Bulb disinfection: Before planting hyacinths, it is recommended that you first disinfect and sterilize the bulb to prevent rot. Remove the dried outer skin and old roots of the bulb, soak it in potassium permanganate solution (with the concentration judged by a faint purple-red color) for a quarter of an hour to soak and disinfect. After disinfecting the bulb, shake the water off the bulb and let it dry naturally in the shade for one day.

2. Bulb planting: Because the flower buds of the hyacinth bulb have already differentiated and formed, no base fertilizer is needed during planting. Plant the bulb into the potting soil, with the soil height based on covering the highest point of the bulb by 2 cm; if you have no experience growing bulbs, it is recommended to leave the highest point of the bulb's top exposed half a cm above the soil (mainly to prevent stem rot caused by overwatering; it is suggested to use the latter). After planting is complete, water the pot thoroughly.

4. Early-stage care: After planting, the hyacinth can be placed in an environment no higher than about 10 degrees to force root and sprout growth; the entire root-forcing and sprouting period is about 20 to 30 days (it may vary depending on the ambient temperature). When it comes to watering, water thoroughly only when dry; be sure not to water at will, and you can judge the degree of dryness and moisture by feeling the weight of the flowerpot.

5. Later-stage care: After the hyacinth sprouts, you can appropriately raise the temperature of the growing environment to shorten the time needed for flowering; the growing temperature is best kept at about 15 to 20 degrees. Below 10 degrees, growth is relatively slow, but it does not have much effect on growth; above 25 degrees, blind flower (poor flower bud growth that cannot bloom) is likely to occur. Normally you can lengthen the sunlight hours; with more sunlight, the plant is relatively shorter and the plant shape is more graceful. Under normal care, from sprouting to flowering takes about 30 days; when the ambient temperature is high, it blooms relatively early.

6. Care during flowering: The hyacinth flowering period is about 10 to 15 days; when the ambient temperature is low, the flowering period is relatively longer. After flowering, it can be moved indoors for viewing, and given a certain amount of light each day to prevent the leaves and flower stems from growing leggy.

7. Post-flowering treatment: After the hyacinth flowers fade, you can remove the spent flowers to build up the bulb. In daily management, apply a nitrogen fertilizer (cake fertilizer) about once every 2 weeks to promote the development of the bulb in the soil; how well the bulb is built up directly affects whether it will bloom again the next year. After summer arrives, the leaves will slowly turn yellow and wither naturally, the watering amount can be gradually reduced, and once the bulb enters dormancy, stop water completely and place it in a cool place (below 30 degrees is best; too high a temperature is unfavorable for the formation of flower buds).