How to Plant Poinsettia Seeds? Value and Potted Plant Price Introduction

The poinsettia is native to Central America and is widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions. It is cultivated in the vast majority of provinces, regions, and municipalities in China, and is commonly seen in parks, botanical gardens, and greenhouses. So do you know what methods there are for planting poinsettia seeds? What value does it have? How much does it cost per pot? At the flower market, we learned that a pot of poinsettia costs between 30 yuan and 50 yuan, mainly determined by the size of the flower pot and the artistic shape.

I. Poinsettia Seed Planting Methods

1. Cuttings

Poinsettia cutting propagation mainly includes two methods: semi-hardwood cuttings and softwood cuttings, as well as old root cuttings. Regardless of which cutting propagation method is used, poinsettia cuttings should preferably be taken in the early morning, because at this time the cuttings have a relatively sufficient water content. When cutting the cuttings, the cut should be smooth, and the split epidermis and xylem should be trimmed off to avoid water accumulation and rot, which would affect healing and rooting.

The cutting incision should be cut flat or at a slant, and the cut should preferably be 0.5 cm below the base node of the bud, as this makes rooting easier. The white milky sap flowing from the incision should be rinsed clean with water, and the incision should be coated with fresh clay or plant ash before cutting, or dipped in rooting powder to promote rooting; a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution can also be used, soaking the base of the prepared poinsettia cutting in the solution for about 10 minutes to increase the survival rate. After the base is treated by the above methods, cut immediately; the cutting is generally inserted into the substrate to a depth of no more than 2.5 cm, because if inserted too deep, the lower incision is prone to rot; the planting spacing for cuttings is preferably 4 cm × 4 cm.

(1) Semi-hardwood cuttings: Poinsettia semi-hardwood cuttings are mostly carried out between March and May in spring, generally when the temperature is above 15°C. When cutting, take annual lignified or semi-lignified branches about 10 cm long, cut off the leaves and branch tips on the cutting, cut the base incision at a slant and close to the node, dip it in plant ash, wait for the cut to dry, then insert it into fine sand, water thoroughly after insertion, keep the temperature at 22-24°C, and roots will form after 20 days. During the cutting period, attention should be paid to shading to prevent water loss and branch wilting.

(2) Softwood cuttings: When the current-year branches of the poinsettia have grown to 6-8 leaves, take a soft shoot segment 6-8 cm long with 3-4 nodes, cut it flat below the node, remove the large leaves at the base, immediately put it into clean water to prevent the milky sap from flowing out, then insert it for cutting. After cutting, ensure the tender stem and leaves remain moist, and take sun-blocking measures. Most varieties of softwood cuttings can root in 14-18 days. Poinsettia softwood cuttings root relatively quickly and have a high survival rate. If propagated by cuttings in a homemade greenhouse, as long as the indoor temperature is maintained at around 22°C, cuttings can be taken in late March, and can continue as needed until September.

(3) Old root cuttings: For poinsettias cultivated for many years, the roots can also be used to propagate new plants. This is because in March and April of spring, when the poinsettia is brought out of the house, it is necessary to repot and change the soil once, to supplement the nutrients in the potting soil and to trim the stems and roots. During this process, people often discard the cut poinsettia old roots, but if old root stems of more than 0.5 cm are collected, they will be a large batch of usable propagation material.

The specific method is to cut the old roots of the poinsettia into root segments about 10 cm long, then dip the cut ends in dry charcoal powder or plant ash, or dry soil powder, wait for them to dry slightly, then insert them into culture soil for cutting (if the root segment has a few small fibrous roots, it is even easier for new shoots to sprout). As for the cutting container, generally if the quantity is small, a deeper flower pot can be used, while if the quantity is large, cuttings can be made in a seedbed.

When cutting, leave the root segment 1 cm above the soil surface, tilt it northward at about an 80° angle to the ground, which can promote the root segment to sprout new shoots as quickly as possible. After cutting, shading is not needed, and after about one month, new plants can be propagated. When the new plant grows to about 10 cm tall, it can be transplanted into a pot, and after a slow seedling period of about 5 days to 1 week, normal care can be carried out.

2. Layering

Layering propagation is a propagation method in which branches of a plant close to the ground are pressed down into the soil, and higher branches have the cut (or wounded) part wrapped with moist materials such as moss, and after they root, they are separated from the mother plant and planted to form new plants. Air layering is generally used.

First select a lignified branch, generally a healthy and plump branch from the previous year, and perform ring barking on a smooth part. The width of the ring bark is about the same as the thickness of the branch at the ring-barked part, generally preferably 3-4 cm; remove the phloem of the branch at the ring-barked part, make the upper incision smooth, then gently scrape the cambium with a sharp knife. After completion, wrap the incision with wet sphagnum moss or other loose, breathable material. Generally use a piece of polyethylene film 20-25 cm square, which has good carbon dioxide and oxygen permeability, yet very low water vapor transmission, and can withstand longer periods of climate change. Tie the upper and lower ends tightly with binding rope, etc. (especially the lower end); if not tied tightly, the substrate dries easily, thereby affecting rooting at the incision.

After layering, the poinsettia generally grows roots in about two months, at which point it can be cut off and planted in a pot, forming a new plant. The best time for poinsettia layering is from April to July.

II. What Value Does the Poinsettia Have

1. Ornamental value

The poinsettia has beautiful branches and leaves, bright flower colors, and a long flowering period. It blooms right at Christmas, New Year's Day, and Spring Festival. Its bright red color adds a festive atmosphere. Displaying poinsettias in patterned arrangements for viewing during holidays has a very good effect.

2. Home decoration

In addition to arranging beautiful furniture and some furnishings in the family living room, if potted flowers, bonsai, and flower arrangements can be used as indoor decoration, it will have a more unique flavor. It can not only bring a rich sense of life to the room, but also make people happy and relaxed. The poinsettia's unique and charming red bracts are eye-catching and attractive. When decorating a windowsill, balcony, or study, it spreads red and displays green, charming and moving.

3. Feng shui effect

The poinsettia has brilliant flower colors. Because it blooms right at New Year's Day and Spring Festival, it has the beautiful meaning of universal celebration and jointly wishing for new life. At this time, using it to decorate places such as the home living room can easily bring good luck to family members in feng shui.

4. Medicinal value

The poinsettia is cool in nature and bitter and astringent in taste. It has the functions of regulating menstruation and stopping bleeding, invigorating blood and resolving phlegm, and setting bones and reducing swelling. It is mainly used for excessive menstruation, wind-cold cough, traumatic injuries, external bleeding, fractures, and traumatic swelling and pain. Selecting an appropriate amount of poinsettia can treat functional uterine bleeding, and it also has a certain effect on traumatic swelling and pain.