What is the correct way to water flowers grown at home?
Water is an indispensable substance for the life activities of all living things. Flowers and trees need sufficient water for photosynthesis, respiration, transpiration and so on. After potted flowers are watered, on the one hand they can promptly absorb the effective nutrients dissolved in the potting soil; on the other hand, through the supply of water, the carbon dioxide dissolved in the water seeps into the cells, is made into organic matter through photosynthesis, and is delivered to other parts, maintaining the normal life of the plant. Water can also regulate the temperature and humidity between the plant and the potting soil and the environment.
Supplying the water needed by various potted flowers and trees at different growth and development stages is the key to whether potted flowers can be grown well. Because the potting soil is limited and the root system of flowers and trees is curled up in the pot, if the soil is too dry, the flowers and trees will wilt or even die; conversely, if the soil is too wet, it will also suffocate the root system, affect respiration, and cause root rot.
Watering should be done at the right time and in the right amount according to the different habits of the flowers and trees and different climatic conditions. No matter what kind of potted flower or tree it is, watering in any season must conscientiously achieve "water thoroughly once dry", and never give a half-watering that only wets the surface. In summer, watering should preferably be done in the evening, and in winter it should be done in the morning. The water temperature should roughly be close to the potting soil temperature. Water more in dry weather, and water less or even not at all on cloudy and rainy days. Under the condition that the flowers are not harmed by lack of water, keeping relatively less water in the soil is usually safer and more reliable than too much water.
When growing flowers at home, if no one will be around to care for them for a short period, you can beforehand place small flowerpots into a large basin or wooden box filled with wet sand, so that the water in the wet sand slowly seeps into the small pots, meeting the water needs of the flowers in the small pots. You can also place a large basin filled with water beside the flowerpot and prepare a thick towel, immersing one end of the towel in the water and pressing the other end directly against the bottom of the flowerpot. Due to capillary action, water will continuously moisten the potted flowers from the bottom of the pot, thereby preventing the potted flowers from dying of dehydration.
How to fertilize flowers grown at home
Because the root growth of potted flowers and trees is restricted and they take up fewer nutrients, sufficient fertilizer is needed to ensure their normal growth and development. But it is not that the more fertilizer the better; it should be applied at the right time and in the right amount. It is understood that there are many cases in which home flower-growing enthusiasts cause the death of flowers due to improper fertilizer use or watering. They urgently hope for the flowers and trees to grow, so they constantly fertilize and water, or apply undecomposed fertilizer. As a result, things turn out contrary to their wishes: poor growth, or even death. Generally, when the following situations occur, sufficient attention should be paid and necessary measures should be taken.
1. The flowers and trees grow thin and weak, the plants develop poorly, and the leaf color is abnormal and becomes pale, or shows spots and whitening. These are symptoms of fertilizer deficiency. Nitrogen fertilizer should be applied in time, along with some manure and fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium.
2. The branches and leaves grow especially luxuriantly, with leggy shoots emerging in a short time, small flower buds that stop developing, leading to bud drop and flower drop. This is caused by improper fertilizer use, specifically excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer. For example, if potted Chinese rose is given too much nitrogen fertilizer in spring, the branches and leaves flourish and become leggy, and it does not bloom. For citrus, continuous flower drop and fruit drop occur. The remedy is to stop applying nitrogen fertilizer and use some phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
3. Not long after fertilizing the flowers and trees, the plants are suddenly found to be withered, with leaves hanging down and so on. This is caused by applying undecomposed fertilizer or fertilizer that is too concentrated. In severe cases, the flowers and trees quickly die. When such undecomposed fertilizer is applied, it ferments in the pot and produces heat, burning the root system to death. Or although it has been fermented, because the fertilizer is too concentrated, it causes reverse osmosis and leads to the death of the flowers and trees. If the above situations are found, pour in some clean water to dilute the concentration. In more serious cases, it is also necessary to promptly change the pot and soil, appropriately prune the roots, and heavily prune the branches and leaves above ground, place the pot in a shady and cool place, and spray water frequently to aid recovery.
Application methods: Fertilizers for potted flowers fall into two types: base fertilizer and topdressing. Base fertilizer is applied when potting or mixed into the soil in winter, mainly including cake fertilizer, bone meal, hair, poultry scraps and so on. Topdressing is applied during the growth period of the flowers and trees, generally once about every half month, and the amount should not be too much; achieve "thin fertilizer applied frequently", that is, apply decomposed fertilizer mixed with water, or do it together with watering. For potted flowers that bear fruit, application can be briefly stopped before and after flowering. For all flowers and trees that prefer acidic soil, such as camellia, rhododendron, and banana shrub, it is best to add 1% ferrous sulfate when fertilizing, to promote luxuriant branches and leaves.
Generally, potted flowers should be fertilized promptly during the growth period, at the right time and in the right amount. If the plum rain season comes or rain continues for a long time, a small amount of cake fertilizer powder can be scattered on the surface of the potting soil for the flowers and trees to absorb slowly. According to the needs of flowers and trees for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium at different development stages, choose appropriately what to apply. For example, during the period of growing branches and leaves, apply more nitrogen fertilizer; for flowers and trees that bloom and bear fruit, apply more phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. There are many phosphorus and potassium fertilizers in the home, such as the bottle water from rinsing milk, eggshell liquid, and so on; these are all very good phosphorus fertilizers for watering potted flowers. Plant ash is a kind of potassium fertilizer, which can promote thick and strong stem growth and enhance the ability to withstand cold and overwinter. In summer, fertilize less. For some cold-sensitive flowers and trees, fertilization should be stopped after October. Before fertilizing, loosen the soil appropriately to make it easier for the flowers and trees to absorb. Chemical fertilizer is also a kind of quick-acting topdressing. Various fertilizer powders or fertilizer tablets are sold on the market. These powders or tablets are both hygienic and convenient, and most are compound fertilizers containing multiple nutrients. They can be applied, but they must be applied reasonably and strictly according to the nature, composition, content and so on of the chemical fertilizer, and excessive amounts and excessive concentration must be avoided, so as not to suffer fertilizer damage.
How to propagate flowers grown at home by layering
Layering propagation refers to a propagation method in which a branch is not separated from the mother plant, and at a fixed part of it, roots are made to form a new plant. Layering propagation is mostly used for flowers that are difficult to root from cuttings. The plants grown from layering are relatively large and become seedlings quickly. According to the different layering sites, it can also be divided into mound layering and air layering.(1) Mound layering. Mound layering refers to mounding soil around the mother tree in spring, burying most of the branches in the soil, and often keeping the mound moist. After the branches take root, cut them off with roots from the base of the layer, separate them from the mother plant to form new plants, and pot or transplant them.
(2) Air layering. Air layering is used for flowers with tall plants and branches that are not easy to bend. First notch or girdle the branch, then surround the wound with a flowerpot, plastic film, paper tube, and so on, fill the inside with culture soil, moss, and other water-retaining materials, tie it tightly and fix it, and water frequently to keep it moist. After rooting, cut it off from the lower end to form a new plant.