How to plant water lilies properly? A detailed guide to planting methods

How to plant water lilies: tropical water lilies have a large plant form and bloom all year round, are not cold-tolerant, and need to overwinter in a full-sun greenhouse. Varieties grown in the north are mostly the more cold-tolerant common water lilies, with a smaller plant form, and the flowers float on the water surface. Use live river mud in the planting pot, place 50-100 g of hoof pieces underneath as base fertilizer, with the bud cluster facing up, bury the tuber in the soil and firm it down. On top of the river mud add a 2 cm thick layer of building sand, then place it in a pond or large vat.

Water lily planting methods

Take out the water lily seeds and soak them in water at around 25, changing the water every day; after two weeks they will germinate. When the seedlings grow to about 3 cm, they can be transplanted into a flower pot for planting, but make sure the water in the pot is sufficient.

Place some slow-release fertilizer or root fertilizer beneath the soil in the flower pot, put one third of the soil in the pot and press it firm, then bury the corm with the bud point facing up in the soil, but note that the deeper you bury your corm, the longer the flowering interval will be but the larger the flowers; if buried shallowly, the interval will be shorter and the flowers smaller. After planting, move it to a place with sufficient light and fill it with water.

On applying additional fertilizer: for potted water lilies, generally it is enough to choose fertile soil and add some chicken manure and bone meal as base fertilizer when planting. To encourage more flowering, several topdressings mainly of phosphorus and potassium can be applied during the flowering period. Never apply too much nitrogen fertilizer, otherwise, because vegetative growth is too vigorous it will inhibit reproductive growth, causing poor flowering or no flowering.

As water lilies grow, attention must also be paid to important operations such as pest control, repotting and changing soil, and enlarging the water surface. On pest control: water lily leaves are easily attacked by leaf-eating pests such as the night-eating moth, causing damage to the leaf surface and reducing photosynthesis, which will inevitably affect flowering, so control should be carried out promptly. Repotting and changing soil: around the Spring Equinox each year, in combination with division, repot and change the soil to keep the soil fertile and meet the nutrient needs of the water lily. Enlarging the water surface: if the water surface is small, the leaves overlap, which will affect flowering; it is best to grow them in pots set inside vats, and providing about 1 sq m of water surface per plant can promote more flowering.

Then just wait for the water lily to bloom, but also remember to add water appropriately. In autumn the water lily will stop growing and enter dormancy; adding fertilizer at this time easily causes root rot, so no maintenance is needed in autumn and winter, and when the water is low, simply fill it up.

Key points for planting water lilies

I. Growth habits

Water lilies like sunlight and good ventilation, so tropical and cold-tolerant water lilies that bloom during the day close their flowers at night and open them again in the morning. In ponds with tree shade on the bank, they can bloom but grow weakly. They are not picky about soil quality; they can grow normally at pH 6-8. The optimum water depth is 25-30 cm, and the maximum must not exceed 80 cm. They like loam rich in organic matter. They sprout and grow leaves in March-April, bloom successively from May to August, and each flower lasts 2-5 days. They set fruit after flowering. The stems and leaves wither in October-November. They sprout again the following spring. In the Yangtze River basin they sprout from late March to early April, form buds in late April or early May, are in full bloom from June to August, have a yellow-leaf period from October to November, and enter dormancy after November. They grow in marshes and lakes, and are often cultivated in the pools of some parks.

II. Geographical distribution

Most water lilies are native to North Africa and the tropical regions of Southeast Asia, with a few from South Africa, Europe, and the temperate and cold regions of Asia, Japan, Korea, India, the former Soviet Union, Siberia and Europe. They are also found in the United States. In China they are distributed from Yunnan to the Northeast, and west to **. They are cultivated in all provinces and regions.

III. Propagation methods

1. Division

Water lilies are mainly propagated by division. Cold-tolerant species are usually divided in March-April before sprouting in early spring; cold-sensitive species have high requirements for air and water temperature, so division can only be carried out around mid-May. When dividing, first dig out the rhizome, select rhizomes with plump new buds, cut them into root segments 8-10 cm long, each segment with at least 1 bud, then plant them. Bury them in the surface soil with the terminal bud facing up, with the covering depth such that the plant's bud eye is level with the soil surface; plant 5-7 segments per pot. After planting, expose to a little sun before adding shallow water, to help maintain the water temperature, but do not irrigate too deeply, otherwise germination will be affected. When the temperature rises and the new buds begin to move, then deepen the water level. Place in a well-ventilated, sunny spot for care, with a cultivation water depth of 20-40 cm; the water level can be appropriately deepened in summer, and in the hot season keep the pot water clean. When growing only a small number in pots, you can take a water lily that has been planted for 2-5 years out of the pot, cut it into 2-4 pieces, and plant them back into the pot.

2. Sowing

Water lilies can also be propagated by sowing, that is, after the flowers fade they turn into the water; before the fruit ripens, wrap the flower in a gauze bag so that when the fruit splits the seeds fall into the bag. After the seeds are harvested, they must still be stored in water; if stored dry they will lose their ability to germinate. Sow in March-April, using fertile clay loam as the pot soil; do not fill the pot too full, preferably 5-6 cm below the pot rim; after sowing the seeds, cover with 1 cm of soil, press firm and immerse in water, with the water surface 3-4 cm above the pot soil; cover the pot soil with glass and place in a sunny, warm spot to raise the temperature inside the pot. The sowing temperature is preferably 25-30 degrees C; they germinate after about half a month and can bloom the following year.

III. Cultivation methods

1. Vat cultivation

When planting, choose a bottomless flower vat about 50 cm tall with as large a diameter as possible; place evenly mixed nutrient soil in the pot, with the soil-filling depth controlled

2. Potted water lilies

at 30-40 cm, to facilitate water storage. Bury a well-grown propagule in the center of the flower vat, with the depth such that the terminal bud is just slightly exposed above the soil. After planting, add water but do not fill it full; 2-3 cm above the soil layer is best, to facilitate warming and ensure the survival rate. As the plant grows, gradually increase the water level. The advantage of this method is that it is easy to manage; the disadvantage is that overwintering is difficult in the Beijing-Tianjin area, and it must be moved into a greenhouse or sunk into a pool.

3. Potted and submerged

Choose a bottomless nutrient pot, 30 cm tall, 40 cm in diameter; the planting method and nutrient soil are as for vat cultivation, with the soil-filling height at about 25 cm. After planting, sink it into a pool, with the pool water level controlled to just submerge the nutrient pot, and then gradually increase the water level as it grows. The advantage of this method is that overwintering is easy; it is enough to raise the water level in winter so that the terminal buds of the water lily remain below the ice layer to overwinter. The disadvantage is that management requires entering the pool, which is slightly inconvenient.

4. Pond cultivation

Choose a pond with fertile soil, with at least 30 cm of mud at the bottom; the propagule can be planted directly into the mud. The water level should be shallow at first, controlled at 2-3 cm, to facilitate warming, and gradually raised as it grows. Depending on the region, deepen the water level in the pond before winter so that the rhizome is below the ice layer and can overwinter. The advantage is a better mass effect and greater growth; the disadvantage is that digging them up the next year is difficult, and pests and diseases are hard to control. In early spring drain the pond completely, apply base fertilizer at the bottom (cake fertilizer, barnyard manure, crushed bones and superphosphate, etc.), fill fertile soil on top, then plant the water lily rhizomes into the soil, flooding to a depth of 20-30 cm; in the vigorous summer the water level can be deeper, maintained at 40-50 cm, and the water flow should not be too rapid. If the pond water is too deep, you can build planting platforms or planting troughs with bricks in the water, or use plastic boards to divide a long planting trough into 1 m×1 m sections to plant multiple varieties and avoid mixing varieties. You can also plant them into pots or vats first and then place them in the pond. During the growing period, additional topdressing can be applied appropriately 1-2 times. In July-August, mix 50 g of cake fertilizer powder with 10 g of urea, wrap it in paper into small packets, and push them by hand into the mud a little away from the plant roots, 2-4 packets per plant. After about 3 years of planting, renovate the pond once to avoid crowding and decline. Before the winter freeze, maintain a water depth of about 1 m to prevent the pond bottom from freezing and damaging the rhizomes.

5. Water level control

Whether cold-tolerant water lilies can grow normally depends in part on water level control. As cold-tolerant water lilies go through different growth stages, their water level requirements differ.

Water lilies require attention to water level control. Because water temperature has a direct effect on the growth and flowering of water lilies, in the early growth stage, since the leaf stalks are short, the water level should be as shallow as possible, so as not to expose the leaves to the air; this raises the water temperature as quickly as possible, promotes root growth, and improves the survival rate. As the leaves grow, gradually raise the water level; when the peak growth stage is reached, the water level reaches its maximum, which lengthens the leaf stalks and enlarges the leaves, helping to store nutrients. In autumn, lower the water level and raise the water temperature so the leaves get sufficient light and photosynthesis is enhanced, to promote the growth of the water lily rhizome and lateral buds and increase the number of propagules for the following year. After the weather turns cool in late autumn, gradually deepen the water level, keeping most of the leaves from being submerged, to control vegetative growth. Before the water surface freezes, deepen the water level all at once, determined by the greatest historical ice thickness, keeping the water lily terminal buds below the ice layer to overwinter safely.

6. Timely topdressing

The principle of topdressing must be that it benefits the growth of the water lily while causing no waste in the water, because wasted fertilizer causes eutrophication of the water body and accelerates the growth of algae and

fragrant water lily aquatic plants, thereby polluting the water body. You can use tough, absorbent paper to wrap the fertilizer and poke a few small holes in the packet so the nutrients are released, and apply it 15-20 cm from the center, at a depth below 10 cm. You can also mix moist garden soil or clay with fertilizer in a certain ratio (generally soil to chemical fertilizer 10 to 1, soil to organic fertilizer 4 to 1) until evenly combined, then squeeze it into mud balls (best if they do not stick to the hand and do not fall apart when released), and apply them radially at 3 points 15-20 cm from the center of the rhizome, 10-15 cm below the rhizome, squeezing and applying as you go. Topdressing is generally done 15 d before the full flowering period, then once every 15 d thereafter, to ensure the amount of flowering, but topdressing should not be excessive; too much easily increases vegetative growth and the number of leaves, affecting the overall flowering effect. Reasonable topdressing can prolong the mass flowering period of cold-tolerant water lilies and also increase the number of propagules grown the following year.

IV. Pest and disease control

Rot disease

(1) Choose disease-resistant varieties.

Water lily

(2) Carry out 2-3 years of crop rotation in heavily affected fields.

(3) Carefully select disease-free seed lotus roots and treat them with 800-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim or 20% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder plus 800-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder; after spraying, seal the seeds, cover with plastic film and seal for 24 h, then dry and plant.

(4) Deep-plow and harrow the lotus root field, applying 1500-2250 kg of lime per hectare.

(5) Strengthen fertilizer and water management, apply sufficient decomposed organic fertilizer, and topdress timely and appropriately, combining organic fertilizer with chemical fertilizer and nitrogen fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; manage the water layer well according to the different growth stages of the lotus root, keeping the depth appropriate, using water to regulate temperature and fertilizer, and preventing increased disease from water temperatures that are too high or long-term deep irrigation.

(6) Promptly pull out diseased plants and spray with 600-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder plus 600-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder.

Leaf rot disease

(1) Remove diseased and residual plants at harvest, bury them deeply or burn them in a centralized way, to reduce the source of the pathogen.

(2) At the early stage of the disease, spray 800-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 800-fold dilution of 70% thiophanate-methyl wettable powder or 500-fold dilution of 30% basic copper sulfate suspension, once every about 10 d, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

Anthracnose

(1) During the growing season, collect diseased and residual material and bury it deeply or burn it.

(2) Apply sufficient decomposed organic fertilizer and topdress timely and appropriately, combining organic fertilizer with chemical fertilizer and nitrogen fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.

(3) Promptly pull out diseased plants and spray with 600-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, 600-fold dilution of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder, 500-fold dilution of 36% thiophanate-methyl suspension, 1500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 800-fold dilution of 80% anthracnose thiram wettable powder, once every about 10 d, for 2-3 consecutive sprays.

Small leaf beetle

It is a devastating pest; the adults overwinter in the vegetation near the pond edge, lay eggs on the leaf surface in late spring, and can produce 2-3 generations per season. At this time, you can wash the leaf

Water lily picture surface with water, so that the adults and pupae fall into the water and are eaten by fish. Once the larvae cause damage, spray with 1200-fold dilution of decis to kill them.

V. Water lily root aphid

It harms many aquatic plants with soft leaves. In summer it attacks leaves and flower stems, causing the flower color to change. Its eggs overwinter on Prunus plants, especially on plum and hawthorn trees, and occasionally on cherry trees. Avoid planting large areas of Prunus plants by the water, or wash these host plants with tar in winter; you can also wash the leaves with a hose and spray insecticides, etc.

When it is causing damage, you can mix furadan or trichlorfon with sawdust, put it in a cloth bag, tie it to the leaf stalk so the bag floats on the water surface, and as the water moves it diffuses the pesticide liquid and kills the pest. Biological control works very well: stocking 5 kg of loach in 1000 sq m of water surface can effectively stop the spread and floating overflow of the pest.

Spray water moss with 0.3%-0.5% copper sulfate.

Aphid-damaged leaves can be sprayed with 1000-1200-fold dilution of dichlorvos, or with 2000-2500-fold dilution of 50% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate.

How to plant mini water lilies: planting methods for mini water lilies

Mini water lilies are themselves aquatic plants; when planting, the root tuber should be immersed in water, and after gradually waiting for it to sprout and unfurl leaves, it is transplanted into a container. Mini water lilies are a kind of water-surface greening material with both beautiful flowers and leaves, and can decorate fountains, courtyards, etc., bringing people coolness in the scorching summer. So, what are the planting methods for mini water lilies? Let us take a look together below.

I. Introduction to mini water lilies

Mini water lilies are a precious kind of aquatic flower. Their appearance is similar to the lotus, except that the leaves and flowers of the lotus rise above the water surface, while the leaves and flowers of the water lily float on the water surface. Because mini water lilies open by day and close by night, they are known as the "sleeping beauty among flowers." Mini water lilies are perennial aquatic plants with fairly strong cold tolerance; with a little protection in the Northeast region, they can overwinter safely. The underground rhizome of the mini water lily grows horizontally or the tuber grows upright, short and thick. The flower color varies greatly by variety, bright and beautiful.

Add water gradually as new leaves grow; during the flowering season, the water depth can be kept at 70-80 cm. In winter, more water should be added, keeping the water depth above 110 cm, so the rhizome can overwinter safely. For potted plants, choose a pot with an inner diameter and depth of at least 40 cm×60 cm; around the Spring Equinox each year, repot and change the mud in combination with division. Beneath the rhizome, place at least 30 cm of fertile river mud from China Agricultural Chemical Investment Network, and cover with soil until the terminal bud is just covered, then place it in a pond or vat, keeping the water depth at 40-50 cm. Potted plants cared for indoors must be moved into a cold room or to the bottom of deep water to overwinter in winter. Mini water lilies need sufficient light during the growing period; do not place them in shade for long periods.

II. How to plant mini water lilies

1. Rhizome propagation method

Mini water lilies are mainly propagated by rhizome. At first, plant the mini water lily in a flower pot, then place it in water; after about a year or so, the rhizome of the mini water lily will grow very densely, and then you can divide the stems and plant the mini water lily. First remove the soil from the rhizome part, cut the fibrous roots short, cut off the horizontally growing rhizome together with stems and leaves at about 10 cm, then put bottom sand, fertilizer and the like into the basin, place the stem sections in, firm them down with a layer of soil on top, water them at the right time, and then wait for them to grow.

2. Division planting method

When planting, the growing point of the mini water lily can be slightly exposed above the water surface or even above the pot rim; once planted, place it into the water at once, and in the water the mini water lily needs to be fixed in place, maintaining a certain water depth. Mini water lily planting requires dividing and planting once the mini water lily has grown to a certain stage, and it needs frequent fertilizing to ensure sufficient fertilizer, with the water quality kept clear.

III. Planting methods for mini water lilies

1. Choose the cultivation soil well: mini water lilies like humus-rich, fertile clay soil from the Huobao Agricultural Materials Investment Network. Therefore, for cultivation it is best to choose silt that has long accumulated in rivers or ponds.

2. Choose the seed stems well: mini water lilies are mostly cultivated by division. Whether the seed stems are chosen well is also a key link in the success of cultivation. For the underground rhizome used as seed, choose a section that is vigorous and robust, virus-free, undamaged and unrotted, with new buds, and cut it into segments 6-10 cm long.

3. Plant appropriately shallowly: if the underground stem of the mini water lily used for seed is buried too deep in the mud, first, the mud temperature is rather low, and second, oxygen is scarce, which is not conducive to early growth and rapid development. The cultivation depth is generally kept moderate with the new buds on the underground stem level with the soil surface.

4. Sufficient light: mini water lilies like a climate with ample sunlight, warmth and humidity, and good ventilation. Mini water lilies grown in pots or vats must be placed in a position with sufficient light, allowing them to receive full sunlight.

5. Water conditions: mini water lilies like to grow in relatively calm water bodies without large waves or rapid currents, so planting them in artificial fountain pools with high-pressure water columns or in pools with rapid-flowing waterfalls often results in poor growth. The suitable water depth for planting mini water lilies differs with variety.

The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe that after reading it you now have a simple understanding of this. If needed, you can continue to follow No. 1 Home Network to learn more information.