How does lotus reproduce? A detailed introduction to the common propagation methods

How does lotus reproduce:

1. Seed propagation
(1) Soaking seeds Collect fully mature lotus seeds in August to September and store them; they can be sown from mid-April to June. Before sowing, break a small opening at the recessed end of the lotus seed to expose the seed coat, as long as the embryo is not damaged; generally they germinate in 3 to 7 days (if sown in July to August, although they can germinate, the temperature is high at this time, and after the seedlings are planted, the young leaves leaning against the pot wall are easily scorched under the hot sun, and the growth period is short, so flowering in the same year is difficult, and new lotus rhizomes may even fail to form). 
(2) Sowing Sow the seeds in a pot filled with fertile thin pond mud, with the mud depth being 1/2 to 2/3 of the pot depth. When the soaked lotus seeds have grown two or three young leaves, they are ready to be sown, with the lotus seeds placed slightly above the mud surface.

How to grow Epiphyllum hybrid

1. Fertilizing

Epiphyllum hybrid likes fertilizer, so the potting soil should be fertile, loose, and well drained and aerated, and the pot should be repotted once every 1 year in spring or autumn. When repotting, remove part of the old soil and dead roots, add fresh growing medium, and mix in bone meal as a base fertilizer. During the growing season, apply a diluted, well-rotted cake fertilizer solution once every 15-20 days. After Spring Festival, change to applying a liquid fertilizer once every 10 days, and promptly remove excess side buds and shoots sprouting from the base to reduce nutrient consumption and keep the plant shape neat and attractive. During the bud stage, apply 1-2 additional applications of quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer to promote larger, more brightly colored flowers. Fertilizing should be stopped in winter.

2. Watering

Epiphyllum hybrid does not like heavy watering; the potting soil should be kept slightly moist at all times, and after each fertilizing, water and loosen the soil promptly. During the growth and development period, water according to the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet, and never allow water to accumulate in the pot, otherwise the roots rot easily and the plant may die. Generally, during the bud stage, water only to about 70-80% of the usual amount, otherwise flowers and buds may drop easily. In the dry and windy spring and the hot summer, spray the flattened stems with clean water frequently and sprinkle water on the ground around the flower pot to maintain relatively high air humidity, which favors growth and flowering. In winter, watering should be controlled and appropriate dryness should be maintained to help the plant overwinter safely, because damp potting soil and low temperatures very easily cause root rot.

3. Temperature

Epiphyllum hybrid is not cold tolerant. In northern regions, it can be brought indoors in mid to late October and placed in a spot with ample sunlight. From November to March of the following year, the temperature should preferably be kept at 10-15°C; if the temperature is high, the flattened stems tend to grow leggy and the plant shape becomes uneven. From March to June, the temperature should preferably be kept between 13-18°C; if too low, bud formation is affected. From June to November, it should be kept at 20-25°C. In the hot summer, appropriate shading and ventilation for cooling are needed.

4. Light

Epiphyllum hybrid is not suited to direct strong light. In spring and autumn, it can be placed outdoors in a sunny spot for care, and in winter it should be placed indoors in a spot with ample sunlight. If the pot is kept in a shaded place for a long time, it tends to grow leggy, which is unfavorable for flower bud differentiation and flower formation; if excessive fertilizer and water are also given, the flattened stems often grow vigorously but do not bloom. In summer, place it in a well-ventilated semi-shaded spot, avoid exposure to the sun, and avoid rain and direct strong light, otherwise the flattened stems may turn yellow and, in severe cases, wilt. In summer, it can also be kept indoors in a spot with diffused light, but the windows must be opened frequently to keep the air circulating. Under high temperature and high humidity, if the air is not circulating, it is not only unfavorable for growth but also prone to pests and diseases, and even rot. The flattened stems of Epiphyllum hybrid are soft; to keep them even and attractive, supports should be set up promptly.

5. Propagation

Cuttings are recommended. After flowering, cut plump, full stems as cuttings, generally 6-8 cm, let them dry for 1-2 days first, and when the cut ends are dry, insert them into a pot of sandy soil, then spray with water and place in a semi-shaded, cool place; they can take root and survive in about 1 month.

Precautions for Epiphyllum hybrid

1. For pot culture, use a fully rotted growing medium rich in organic matter.

2. Summer is the growing season; the potting soil should remain moist, but water must not accumulate, to avoid root rot. Avoid strong light; it can be grown in a semi-shaded spot and protected from rain.

3. In autumn, apply additional rotted liquid fertilizer. Without enough nutrients, it is difficult to bloom or it blooms little. In autumn, remove the shading equipment and increase light.

4. In winter, move it indoors, water less, place it in a spot with light, and control its growth. If the indoor temperature is too high in winter, dense new shoots often sprout from the base and should be removed at any time to avoid consuming nutrients and affecting flowering after spring.

5. Spring is the season for flower bud growth; do not water or fertilize too much, to avoid bud drop. In the evening, some water can be sprayed on the stems.

The above is an introduction to how to grow Epiphyllum hybrid. Friends who like Epiphyllum hybrid can refer to the above growing methods and, in combination with actual growing conditions, cultivate it reasonably.

How does Medinilla reproduce? Medinilla propagation methods / mainly by cuttings

Medinilla, also known as Medinilla magnifica, is a relatively common ornamental flowering plant in people's lives, and many people grow it in various places. As more people grow Medinilla, questions about its propagation have also drawn more attention. How does Medinilla reproduce? What are the propagation methods for Medinilla? Below, the editor will introduce them to you.

1. How does Medinilla reproduce? Cuttings

When it comes to how Medinilla reproduces, it is generally mainly by cuttings. In early spring, we can use shoots from the previous year for hardwood cuttings. In late spring and early autumn, we can use current-year shoots for softwood cuttings. As for the specific cutting methods, they are introduced in detail below. Let's take a look.

2. Medinilla propagation methods

1. Substrate selection: good drainage

Before propagating Medinilla by cuttings, we first need to choose a substrate. This is the step of laying a good foundation and is very important. Generally, it is best to choose loose, fertile leaf mold or peat soil as the substrate. These two soils have relatively good drainage and aeration, and are also rich in nutrients, allowing the plant to grow robustly.

2. Substrate disinfection: high-temperature sterilization

After choosing the substrate, we cannot disinfect it immediately; we still need to sterilize it. When disinfecting, we can break it up and spread it flat in the sun for solar disinfection, or put it into an iron wok and stir-fry it over high heat. In this way, even if pests or bacteria are lurking in the substrate, they will be killed by the high temperature.

3. Softwood selection: cut in late spring or early autumn

Softwood cuttings are generally taken in late spring or early autumn each year. We can select robust current-year shoots as cuttings, cut them off, choose the sturdy parts, and then cut them into sections 5-15 cm long, with each section having 2-3 leaves. When cutting the cuttings, be sure to cut 2 cm away from the node, and both the upper and lower cuts should be smooth.

4. Hardwood selection: cut in early spring

In early spring each year, the current-year shoots have not yet grown, so if we want to take cuttings, we need to choose shoots from the previous year. Generally, it is best to choose robust shoots that grew last year as cuttings, as this gives a higher survival rate. Each cutting usually retains 3-4 nodes. As for the cutting method, it is the same as for softwood cuttings, so the editor will not repeat it here.

5. Cutting method: rooting in 40-50 days

When taking cuttings of Medinilla, we first need to apply an appropriate amount of base fertilizer into the substrate, then make a hole in the potting soil, insert the cutting into it. This method can prevent the cutting from being damaged during insertion and is very practical. After that, roots can form in about 40-50 days.