Detailed explanation of the graft-and-cutting propagation method for roses - you can learn it at a glance

Graft-and-cutting propagation method for roses. When roses are propagated by sowing, it is not easy to obtain seeds, and the offspring cannot retain the excellent traits of the mother plant; when propagated by cuttings, they do not root easily; if propagated by ordinary grafting, usually in the first year cuttings are rooted to cultivate rootstock or wild roses are dug up and planted as rootstock, and grafting is carried out the following year, so it takes 2 years before the plants take shape and bloom. Whether grafting and cutting can be carried out simultaneously, and whether they can be prompted to quickly take shape and bloom within one year, has important practical significance in rose production. Here we introduce a new technique of graft-and-cutting propagation with plastic film mulching in autumn and winter.

(1) Preparation of rootstock-scion: The so-called rootstock-scion refers to the stem segment used as rootstock but not yet rooted and alive through cutting. Usually from November to December, select strong one-year-old thick branches of the highly resistant and robust 'Elizabeth' variety or wild rose or Pink Cluster Rose as the rootstock-scion. The branches should be 0.5-0.8 cm in diameter and 10-20 cm in length. After cutting them off with sharp scissors, cut the lower end into a horse-ear shape or a flat end, tie them into small bundles and place them in a wet cloth ready for cutting.

(2) Preparation of scion: Select strong current-year branches of excellent rose varieties as scions, with a thickness similar to or slightly thinner than the rootstock-scion, about 6-8 cm long, generally with 2-3 plump buds. Overly tender shoot tips or branches with a large pith should not be used, nor should stem segments whose basal leaf buds are not plump. Wrap the stem segments selected as scions in a wet cloth for later use.

(3) Grafting operation: Cleft grafting or side grafting can be used. Cleft grafting: First use a sharp knife to make a vertical cut in the center of the upper cut surface of the selected rootstock-scion, about 1.5-2.0 cm deep; then cut the lower end of the stem segment used as the scion into a wedge shape at about 1.5-2.0 cm, insert the wedge-shaped end into the cleft of the rootstock-scion so that the cambium on at least one side between scion and rootstock is aligned, and bind the union of scion and rootstock with plastic tape. Side grafting: First make a diagonal cut at a 300 angle in the middle of the stem segment used as the rootstock-scion, with a cut depth of about 1.5-2.0 cm; then cut the lower part of the stem segment used as the scion at 1.5-2.0 cm into an offset wedge shape, then accurately insert the wedge-shaped end into the side graft opening so that the cambium between scion and rootstock is aligned, and bind the union of scion and rootstock with plastic film tape, ready for cutting.

(4) Cutting and film mulching: Choose a sandy loam plot sheltered from the wind and facing the sun with good drainage as the bed. After thoroughly turning and raking the soil, make a level cutting bed 1.0 m wide and 0.3 m high. Before cutting, first spray the soil moist, then immediately insert the grafted cuttings into the bed at a row spacing of 10 cm x 15 cm, with the insertion depth just enough to cover the union of scion and rootstock, so as to use the temperature and humidity of the soil to promote healing of the graft union. Then insert bamboo arches or bendable false indigo branches on both sides of the cutting bed as arch frames, with an arch height of about 30 cm, cover with plastic film on top to retain moisture and increase temperature, and press and bury the edges of the film firmly with clods of soil.

(5) Management after cutting: During the process of rooting of the cuttings and healing of the scion-rootstock union, the cutting bed should be kept moist, but there must be no standing water. When the bed surface is found to be dry, water can be supplied by side irrigation. Protect the cutting bed from cold, to the extent that the soil does not freeze in winter. Generally after half a month the lower cut of the rootstock begins to heal, and after one month the callus tissue can differentiate roots, and the scion-rootstock union has also healed and connected. In March of the following spring, open the surface soil around the plants, cut the binding tape with a blade, and then mound the soil again. In early April remove the film, then apply light fertilizer once every half month, and by the plum rain season they can be potted or transplanted. During the growing season, promptly remove sprouts on the rootstock, and at the same time pinch out the tips, so that in the same year they can take shape and open bright flowers. The above is an introduction to the graft-and-cutting propagation method for roses.

Complete guide to rose propagation methods - rose cutting propagation method

Flower Bonsai Network introduction: Common propagation methods for roses include cutting propagation, division propagation and layering propagation. Today Flower Bonsai Network shares an article on the complete guide to rose propagation methods. How do you propagate roses? Let's take a look.

Roses have relatively strong adaptability. However, only by creating an environment suited to their biological characteristics can their varietal traits and the best ornamental effect be brought into fuller play.

Roses like mild conditions, dislike intense heat, and avoid severe cold. The optimum temperatures suitable for rose growth and development are 20?25 degrees Celsius during the day and 12?15 degrees Celsius at night. When the temperature exceeds 30 degrees Celsius, growth begins to be inhibited, flower buds no longer differentiate, and already differentiated flower buds and formed flowers develop slowly, with small flowers,? incorrect flower color and short-lived flowers. During the flower bud differentiation period, if short-term low temperature (around 5 degrees Celsius) is encountered, blind shoots (that is, branches without flowers) will be produced. The ability of roses to adapt to low temperatures and cold differs greatly among variety groups. Some ancient roses can endure a low temperature of -20 degrees Celsius. The Floribunda rose group and the hybrid climbing rose group can generally endure a low temperature of -15 degrees Celsius. The hybrid tea rose group is truly not cold-tolerant, but in a low-temperature environment of -10 degrees Celsius, it can overwinter safely without protection. Among the varieties within each variety group, there are also relatively less cold-tolerant varieties.

Roses are drought-tolerant but not waterlogging-tolerant. During the growing period, especially in the peak growing season in spring, soil water shortage will affect the growth amount of new branches, flower size, flower color luster and flower longevity. If air humidity is too high, under poorly ventilated conditions, they are prone to infection by diseases.

Roses like sufficient light and are not tolerant of shade. In a shaded environment, the plant branches are slender, the leaves are thin and light in color, and there are few and small flowers, but if they bloom under direct strong sunlight, the petals change color and their lifespan is shortened.

Roses are commonly propagated by two methods: cutting and grafting. Under certain conditions, other propagation methods are also used. For example, for varieties that are difficult to root by cutting, layering is used to propagate own-root seedlings; for certain clustered varieties, division propagation is often used; in order to cultivate large numbers of rootstock or breed new varieties, sowing propagation is used.

Cutting can be carried out all year round, but hardwood cuttings in winter or autumn are preferable. For green cuttings in summer, attention must be paid to water management and temperature control. Otherwise they do not root easily. Winter cuttings are generally carried out in a greenhouse or plastic tunnel; if cutting in the open field, attention must be paid to adding moisture-retention measures. For those propagated by sowing, it is used for sexual cross breeding. For a few famous varieties that are difficult to root, grafting propagation is used, and the rootstock should preferably be wild rose. Such as the yellow series varieties.

Sowing propagation: After roses flower and are fertilized, the seeds mature in about 140 days. Only after the seeds pass through the dormancy period (after-ripening) can they germinate under suitable germination environmental conditions. Therefore, when the fleshy rose hip turns from green to yellow and then red (generally after early October), harvest it, take out the seeds (achenes), do not dry them in the sun, and immediately stratify them with sea sand. Wait until early spring of the following year (March?April) to sow. Dry seeds have their germination severely affected. In order to sow earlier, artificial low-temperature treatment can be used to promote after-ripening and break dormancy. The temperature for low-temperature treatment is below 3 degrees Celsius, around 0 degrees Celsius, and the treatment duration is 55?65 days. The treated seeds, sown in an environment of 20?25 degrees Celsius, begin to germinate in 7 days, and germinate successively for about 1 month. For seeds from artificial hybridization, when 7?13 true leaves appear, flower buds may form at the top and bloom, which provides an early basis for preliminary identification of the plant's? form, flower color, type, and healthy flowers; there are also some that bloom only 1?2 seasons a year. Some seedlings do not form flower buds, and should be divided and transplanted for cultivation as early as possible.

Cutting propagation is divided into softwood cutting and hardwood cutting.

Softwood cuttings use semi-lignified branches, usually using branches pruned after flowering. After the flowers fade, cut off the spent flower together with the 1 leaf below it, then take the next 3 leaves and cut them off as cuttings. The basal cut of the cutting is made 0.3 cm below a leaf, and the cut is required to be smooth, with the bark not squeezed or damaged. Cut off the lowest 1 leaf, keep 2 leaflets each on the middle and top compound leaves, and cut off all the rest, then they can be cut.

Softwood cuttings root best in late spring and early autumn. Although summer cuttings root? quickly, because of high temperatures and rampant microorganisms, the cut ends of the cuttings are easily infected by pathogens and cause rot, so summer cuttings require special attention to disinfection.

The rooting medium for cuttings can be vermiculite, pure sand or plain sandy soil. Vermiculite has good aeration and water-holding performance, and because it is formed by calcination,? it is relatively clean, and the rooting effect of cuttings is relatively good. Pure sand should be screened to remove overly large sand grains, stones and impurities, rinsed with clean water to remove powder and overly fine sand grains, and then scalded with boiling water for disinfection. Plain sandy soil should preferably be baked over fire, or used after soil disinfection with chemical agents.

The depth for inserting cuttings into the rooting medium should be slightly deeper in spring and autumn, about one half of the total length of the cutting, and shallower in summer, about one third. After cutting, water thoroughly,? then cover with glass or plastic film to retain moisture and provide shade.

The main management work after cutting is watering. In the first 10 days after cutting, water can be more and more frequent, maintaining a relatively moist environment; after 10 days, control watering, gradually reaching the point of watering only when dry,? maintaining a slightly dry and moist state. In an environment of 20?25 degrees Celsius, the cuttings root in 20?35 days. After rooting, transplant them, especially the cuttings in vermiculite or pure sand as rooting medium, which should be transplanted in good time.

Hardwood cuttings are all carried out in spring, generally using branches pruned in winter, selecting strong one-year-old branches with plump axillary buds, and cutting them into 10?15 cm long stem segments as cuttings. The lower cut of the cutting is 0.5 cm from the leaf stalk. After cutting, the cuttings are tied into bundles and buried in soil to overwinter, at a depth of about 30 cm. In early spring of the following year (early March) take them out for cutting. Choose a wind-sheltered sandy soil plot as the cutting bed. Only the top bud of the cutting is left exposed above the soil surface. Water after cutting. After budding, management should be strengthened even more, because although the top bud sprouts, it has not necessarily rooted yet, so the upper part should also keep the soil moist, and the leaf surface should also be sprayed with water frequently. When the leaves of the new plant do not wilt at noon, it indicates that the base has already rooted; from then on, spray less water and shorten the shading time, and apply dilute fertilizer together with watering.

Transplanted cuttings that have survived often die? To ensure survival after transplanting, note the following points. First, the pot should not be large, and the potting soil should not be too rich. Second, transplant on a windless day, in the evening. Third, plant as soon as they are lifted, not letting the root system be exposed to the air for too long. Fourth, when lifting seedlings, take care to protect the root system and do not break it. Fifth, after planting, water thoroughly, and place in a shaded place; after growth resumes, remove the shade.

Grafting propagation. Grafting propagation produces finished seedlings faster than cutting propagation, and stem grafting produces finished seedlings faster than bud grafting. In addition, root grafting can also be used in grafting. The choice of propagation method mainly? depends on the source of rootstock and local custom.

The rootstock commonly used is multi-flowered rose and Pink Cluster Rose. These rootstocks propagate easily, have strong adaptability, developed root systems and good compatibility. Stem grafting and root grafting are carried out in early spring from February to March. When grafting, dig out the rootstock and do it indoors, or graft directly in the field. Leave 3?6 cm of the aboveground part of the rootstock and cut it off, choose a smooth side and make a vertical cut slightly into the xylem, about 2 cm long. Cut a strong branch with two buds as the scion, and on one side of the scion cut a cut surface slightly longer than the rootstock cut (2.1 cm), and on the other side at the base, cut diagonally about 0.5 cm to form a slope. Then insert the prepared scion into the rootstock cut so that the cambium of the two cut surfaces fits closely, then tie it well with binding material (hemp bark, plastic tape). For field grafting, then build a mound of sandy soil. For indoor grafting, the grafted seedlings can be buried in a warm place with semi-moist soil to promote healing, and after 2 weeks or a little longer they are planted in the field.

Bud grafting is carried out from June?October. Bud grafting commonly uses branches after flowering, selecting axillary buds with 5 leaflets below the flower. Require axillary buds that are plump and have not yet sprouted. Cut off the branch, keep a 2 cm long leaf stalk, cut off the leaf blade, and wrap it with a wet cloth or paper to prevent drying for later use. If grafting? 2-3 days before grafting, fully irrigate the rootstock once. When grafting, first carve a "T" shape on the rootstock with a sharp knife, deep to the xylem, with the upper horizontal line 1.2 cm long and the lower vertical line cut 1.8?2 cm long. Pry open the "T" shape, ready to insert the bud. When cutting the bud, first make the cut 0.5 cm above the bud, cut downward slightly into the xylem, cut to 1.8-2.0 cm, and pull it off with the bark. Then pull off the attached xylem from bottom to top, and cut off the overly long bark at the lower part. Pry open the "T"-shaped bark of the rootstock, insert the prepared bud so that the upper end of the bud bark closely meets the horizontal line of the rootstock, then tie it well from top to bottom with binding material (hemp bark or plastic tape). Then break off the main shoot on the rootstock to control its growth. One week after grafting, if the leaf stalk falls off naturally and the bud plate is fresh green, it proves that compatibility and healing have begun. Two weeks later, if the grafted bud swells, remove all the buds and eyes on the rootstock to promote germination of the grafted bud. For buds whose grafting survives in October, no longer promote the grafted bud to sprout in the same year, to prevent the new branch from failing to mature before overwintering and suffering freezing damage. Before budding in spring of the following year, cut off the rootstock 0.8-1.0 cm above the grafted bud.

Grafting and breeding techniques for roses and rugosa roses

For grafting roses, rugosa roses and the like, generally choose roses with developed root systems, vigorous growth and strong disease resistance as rootstock. The varieties selected are mostly Pink Cluster Rose and wild rose. The rootstock can be propagated by cutting, and can also be sown with seeds, using seedlings for grafting. The grafting methods usually used are bud grafting, stem grafting and root grafting, and bud grafting is mostly used. The commonly used bud grafting methods are T-budding and patch budding.

I. T-budding method

It is carried out during the seedling growing season when the plant has a relatively high water content and the phloem is easy to peel off. When grafting, select plump buds on fully developed current-year shoots of the scion, cut off the leaf blade, retain the leaf stalk, then cut slightly into the xylem, making an incision 1.5~2 cm long and 0.5~0.6 cm wide, forming a T shape. Then use the bone part at the tail of the budding knife to pry open the incision so that the phloem separates from the xylem. After gently tearing off the xylem of the grafted bud, insert it into the opening of the rootstock so that the upper flat end of the grafted bud aligns with the horizontal cut of the rootstock, and the cambium of the grafted bud and rootstock fits closely. Bind with a plastic film tape 0.6~0.8 cm wide and about 20~25 cm long, sealing the wound tightly and exposing the grafted bud and leaf stalk. After grafting, after 5~7 days, move the leaf stalk with a finger; if the leaf stalk falls off easily, it indicates the grafting succeeded, and about 15 days after survival, untie it in good time.

II. Patch budding method

It is a single-bud grafting used in autumn and winter when the bark of the rootstock is not easy to peel off. The grafted bud can be cut slightly into the xylem, into an olive shape. The rootstock part is also cut with a similar cut surface as in bud grafting. At the lower part of the incision, leave a 2~3 mm horizontal cut, leaving a small stub, to facilitate insertion of the grafted bud. After aligning the cambium of the bud and rootstock (aligning the two bark layers with the naked eye), bind. This method in the Shanghai area usually involves cutting roses in September~October, lifting rooted cuttings from November, grafting indoors, and then planting in a seedbed at a spacing of 10~15 cm. Plant 45~100 plants per square meter. The seedbed should be covered with plastic film or placed in a plastic tunnel; when the new seedlings are 30~40 cm tall, they can be planted out.

Management

Rose transplanting is carried out between November and March of the following year, and pruning can be carried out at the same time as transplanting. First cut off dense branches and dead branches, then cut off old and weak branches, leaving 2~3 outward-growing buds so as to spread in all directions; appropriately shorten particularly strong branches to strengthen the growth vigor of weak branches. In summer, when new branches grow too densely, thin them out. After each batch of flowers fades, promptly cut off the upper part of the branch connected to the spent flower, so that it does not set seed and consume nutrients, retaining the plump middle and lower branches to promote early emergence of new branches and bloom again. Roses like to be heavily fertilized with base fertilizer before flowering and top-dressed with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer after flowering to strengthen the seedlings and force flowers. Roses have strict water requirements and cannot be too wet or too dry; too dry and they wither, too wet and the roots are damaged and leaves fall.

The main pests of roses include aphids, leaf-roller moths, stinging moths and so on. For control, mainly use 1000~1200 times dimethoate or isocarbophos and other pesticides.

Factors affecting grafting survival

1. Selection of rootstock:

2. Grafting compatibility between rootstock and scion:

3. The cambium of both scion and rootstock:

4. Temperature, moisture and oxygen conditions during grafting:

5. Quality of rootstock and scion:

Introduction to rose grafting propagation methods